has any one ever used braded hose's?

Any 1 1/4" Tee will work. Seen some use the grey PVC. Your pump housing is plastic I just choose to make mine from SS.

No, if the cap isn't screwed on tight, or even if it is left off, you won't take on water as it's above water line, located as mine are. What will happen is your motor will suck air thru that missing/loose cap=no water to motor. I left mine loose by accident once and noticed my WP would fluctuate as it pull water, then air, then water, etc. A valve would be extra insurance if you wanted to add it, perhaps on the back side of the valve up outta sight. But you won't sink.

Hose connection is under the stern light. Here you go if you happen to have strainers.

Mine looks identical to the second pic...appears to be "t"d into both. The second flush is on the port side and I'm pretty sure runs to the sink. Does anyone have a PDF with instructions on how to flush/run motors on land using this setup? I'm new to this setup...didn't think I had to use ear muffs with this and plus the front intake...but I guess you do??

I don't use muffs, leave the drive alone. Using muffs defeats the whole reason behind a flush setup.


Connect garden hose to connector.
Turn on water, water will flow out the drive.
Start motor.
Suction from seawater pump will pull the water thru it and thru motor.
Run till your heart is content.
Shut off motor
Turn off water
Remove hose and reinstall flush cap.

If you have the factory flush system with the gate and ball valve, gotta work them. A little different procedure than mine

DONE!!!, I wanted to mount the hose connection to be easily accessible from the cockpit. If the whole thing is by the transom it would be a lot of climbing back and forth to flush 2 engines. Here are a few pics to show location.



http://www2.snapfish.com/snapfish/th...NAME=snapfish/

Thanks for the pics!