ChrisK

Nice job so far, I found this thread a little late, ok a LOT late as this is the first time I have seen it. For all your interconnects (RCA's, wire, etc) use the highest quality you can get, it DOES make a difference. The "rigging" looks great as well. Make you you secure the amp, and ALL compnents by thru-bolting them.. overkill? maybe in a car, not in a boat. Looks like you have good quality components so that will make a good difference as well, and you can always expand the system later if needed.

I WAS gonna tell you to just bring the boat to FL and let me do it for ya(that would agave you a good excuse to come to FL for parts of the winter)

OldSchool

Thanks, I used JL Audio rca cable and bought a JL Audio Kit for the 4 gauge power cable. That included 20' of red with the fuse block, 5' of black for the ground and a ground lug. I mounted the ground lug on the board and then ran another cable from the ground lug to the neg. side of the battery. I did through-bolt everything.

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

Fountainclimber

A quick question for the stereo impared:

If a head unit has 3 pairs of outputs, L, R and sub what kind of signal comes out of the sub channel(s) ?

Is it a stereo full frequency pair or something different?

I am planning to run a 6 channel amp with 6 Pioneer 2040 8" speakers from a Kenwood 732 and it looks like I could run all 6 wires from the head unit.

Thanks!

UNSANE

LR is full range typically or can have its lows filtered out depending on the headunit's capabilties. The sub is either 80hz and below OR can be adjusted as well so you can fine tune things. Connect the 6 channel amp to the LR outputs of the headunit. I'm in the middle of a show right now, I'll look up the gear and post again for you later...

Shorgasm

Sub-channel will be all low freq.The L&R will be full freq.

I'm in the process of sorting out my new system for my Crownline.
Alpine Hu in cabin
V12 600w in aft ceiling
2 12 Type R's in helm seat storage
2 6" in aft deck
2 outdoor Deck boxs for the dash

Plenty of batteries already and genny so no biggie on power.

Marine stuff is all well and fine but you double the price and get half the product.If it(product) sits outside or gets wet then you are better off to get marine.The auto stuff will rot/corrode fast in wet conditions.

Power(rms) is what you are after.A system that runs half volume and pounds is far safer than a system that runs almost wide open.Always be "excesssive" in marine stereo.The noise factor on the water is always underestimated.I had a system in my little 22' Cobra last year that could be "felt" from 40' away on the water.better than that you could hear it equally as well.It was fun and I never had a battery issue with only 2 deep cycles.Simple 15" ported box all Alpine and 4 cockpits speakers.You'd be amazzed at the durability of Alpine amps.I have a V12 in my Denali running 2ohms AND bridged.So far the other side of safe it isn't even funny.Yes,It gets hot but just pounds and never shuts off.Very well made equipment...The older stuff of course...the new line...I dunno.

I-pod FTMFW!!......only way to roll bro..