Looking at the picture you have a Imco -2 or -1. Thanks for the picture. I think I need to lower my X. To get where you are. I am going to take a measurment from the notch.

Measure From The Deepest Part Of The Bottom To The Bullet

Mine Was A Full Bottom No Notch,,,Look At The Pic ,,Click On It To Blow It Up

Thanks,
I cant go any lower without reglasssing the transom. I will try some more props. Did you ever have any chine walking issues you worked thru?

Hey Don, that is the Krypt that I bought. So that should give you some insight.

Phil

I see you do not have the nothced transom. The bottoms or installed heights are differnet, what year is yours? You have an X 1.5" with a ITS and -1 Imco etreme, My X is 3" with the same ITS and drive with a -3 lower. I was going to try a -2, I have but looks now like that will be going the wrong way. And to rig for the 1.5 X I believe I will have to reglass the transom, and mount it higher. Another winter project.
I can drive (ballance) it on the pad, but should not have to.
Maybe Plumbers Crack will chime in, it was his boat. He might have some words of wisdom. I would like to know if he had simular issues, or used a different prop. Maybe someone changed things after he bought it.

Mine is a 2006. No notch in the transom. I just cant see how you would need to go any higher if you already have a -3. How big is the notch? Your drive is 3" below the bottom of the pad at neutral trim? yours must have been rigged differently for some reason. Plumber Crack would be the one to ask.

http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...te002Large.jpg

When I Mounted The ITS Box Its Right Up To The Bottom Of The Swim Platform,,,,Hey Where Did You Steal My Pic,,,,LOL

I just measured I am 3.25" from the bottom of the swim platform. If yours is @ 1.75 or so that is the differance. Mine is mounted lower, hence the -3 shortie to get the X as low as possible considering the installed height.
With this informantion and some more thought. the excessive trim sensitivity and stern lift would be caused by the drive being too low in the water, to much leverage. The farther from the bottom the more a response to trim and other factors.
Any sugestions besides a re glass on getting my X higher?

You could go with an extension box with rise in it. Imco has a 3" and Stellings has an adjustable one.

So you have 2 29 Kryptonite's now?

I rigged one the 2002 for a customer a few years back. We have it back he chipped some gears in the lower. He has become a friend.
When I rigged it I was on the phone with Kirk, owner of Kryptonite performance boats many times We took all his advise and got the customer the 100mph plus he wanted, in a rock solid ride.
After runing his boat I realized it was one of the fastest and most stabil boats in its class. I found one by mistake (looking thru repo reports and auctions) for used boats to sell at the marina. The price was right and I got it.
Now I have it, it is far from as stabil as the one we rigged. So here I am working on why and what I will need to do to get it where it needs to be. If I put a standoff box on the one we rigged I could just copy that design but we did not.
The Imco box does that work with the ITS standoff? That would put the drive out there. I will look into it.
Thanks
Don

I'm by far not an expert on this but, no I don't think the ITS will work with a box. That would be 12" from the box plus 7" from the ITS. Plus all the steering that goes through the ITS system. You would most likely have to get a standard transom assembly to go with the extension box...plus external steering. That would add up $ quick! But you would be able to sell the ITS assembly to offset the cost. Maybe play with some more props first.....

I ran the boat with a 4 blade bravo and it chine walked a little.Did you runn it with the tabs down a little yet? Those tabs are 20 inches I believe, I realize they will scrub some speed. what about putting a spacer in for the imco? the x is too high correct?

Are you measuring the bullet on the drive at the bottom of the V? The drive bullet is the only thing that matters.The 5 blade makes it too squirley ? I only ran it with a 4 blade. I also didnt have more than 20 hrs on the rig when I sold it to buy my 382 formula.

No Brian ,,He Is Too Low,, Don With What Your Telling Me I Think You Are Gunna Have To Do A Reglass On The Transom To Get To Where You Want To Be,That Drive Must Be Real Low,If You Put A -3 On There It Should Be Right Around Where Mine Was,,Put Up Some Close Up Shots If You Can So We Can See ,,

I am going to call Merc Racing tomorrow (I am a dealer). I recall an ITS with a 3"rise. If they do maybe I can change the housing and not everything, it may be better than a reglass. But we have done many reglassing projects so either way I want it right. I need to get it straightened out before I start my 115MPH project.
The bravo did work much better, tabs helped some but to get it under controll it scrubed t much speed.

Let me see if I can get some close ups in the morning, The boat is at the Marina and I just got home. I will see what I have here also.

Thanks to everyone for pulling together and working this out with me, I apprecaite everyones time and effort.

Here are some pics, i went to the marina to get some. I did the best I could with the measurmants. I could not hold a strait edge, rulr and camera. This should give you an idea. Thanks for the help.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9...D550/ry%3D400/
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9...D550/ry%3D400/
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9...D550/ry%3D400/

Some more, prop shaft parallel to the bottom of the boat. Looks like 3.125 below the bottom of the hull.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9...D550/ry%3D400/
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9...D550/ry%3D400/
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9...D550/ry%3D400/
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9...D550/ry%3D400/

My friends second Kryptonite is set up with 2.75 inch x-dimension,no box or its. He had the boat built with out pad and with knotch. The boat ran 108 on gps 800hp 32 b-1 @6400rpm. Removing the pad improved the handling of the boat.

I built one with out the ITS standoff and it is 3.25" and runs great, but the same X with a stand off box is putting the drive therotocally and actually much deeper in the water. I am sticking with the ITS on this one, I just need to figure out a plan to raise it a few inches.
Any pictures of that bottom with out the center pad?

That Dont Look Like A 3 Inch Short Drive ,,Are You Sure?????????

I will post some pics of the setup on my boat when i get back home next week unless Lightspeed has some of the setup that i havent seen yet.

I stole that picture by digging way back in time through the years and finding your build thread on this boat.

The -3 from Imco is the only one with the size not stamped in the machined mating surface above the bullet. But it is the only one where the cavitation plate of the upper is cast differently for prop clearance with the -3 lower. If you look at the side pictures you can see the cavitation plate is not cast straight from front to back it turns up just in front of the prop for clearance. But just to be sure something was not changed I will take a measurement when I gel to work this morning,
Thank You
Don

Sorry, I reviewed the pictures and you cant see the cav plate clearly. I will measure anyway, and get a better pic of the cav plate
Don

That is definitely a -3 lower, and the cav plate has been modified to accept this lower and aid in prop clearance. If you put a -3 on my upper, the prop would be way too close for comfort. Let me see if i can dig up a picture.

http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...9/100_1111.jpg

See what I mean?

You can see your drive is mounted much higher. I will let you all know how it goes after I call Merc Racing. If I have to reglass, I will move the tabs out farther also. The reglass wil be mostly my labor anyway so its not the end of the world. Just a unforseen hassle.

Called Merc Racing, I need to reglass....

well that is too bad, but if it will help make the ride more stable, then this is what you will need to do. Hopefully you can knock that out over the winter without too much trouble.

Its a week or less project for us. If we were not so busy I would do it now. I will have the motor out this winter anyway. I am going all the way up then I will be able to fine tune on the way down. I would guess I will be able to start with a the propshaft .5" below. Then space from there for the optimum propshaft setup.
Thanks for all the help. I may post pictures of the project.

While we are all here, could I get some pics of stereo installs. I am putting one in this week and would like to see some options. Speakers are going under the back seat. but have not decieded on stereo placement either the pass side under the glovebox or in the cabin. Any pictures?
Thanks

My stereo is in the cabin, mounted in the cutout behind the glovebox. Very clean install with snap in covers to fill in both cutouts to hide the rigging.
http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...reoinstall.jpg

Here is one more shot of the ITS box install. you can see how close it is to the swim platform.
http://i690.photobucket.com/albums/v...s_boat_019.jpg

How does it comeout of the hole? Does the prop blow out at all? I am pulling the trans and raising it this week. being you do not have a notch I think I am going to put my propshaft 1" below the bottom. Just slighty higher that yours.. do you have any pad walk at all?, and the holeshot and blow out?
Thanks

If i remeber right Mike Majors's boat needed soem tab to get on plane, or youd be at 3500 RPM going no where. With the tabs set level that boat was rock solid at 100

Yep, we just put the monster 380's down and you are on plane... I need to call CMI to get my tail pipes modifyed (they are e-tops with dry to the tip tail pipes). I am raising the transom 2". I am sure this will help, but can not raise the exhaust cut outs.. so the tips need to be changed. I may check with the local machine shop to see if they will do the mod on my tails. being dry to the tip the inside and outside needs to be sealed.

yes i have a fair amount of blowout gettng on plane, but if i ease into it it really isnt that bad. The fastest way to get on plane with or without tabs is to ease the throttle up until the props blow out, then let them spin at 3700rpm or so. It will fall right over. anything over 4100rpm will completely blow out the props and they lose all bite, but stay under that and it climbs right out. I dont like doing it that way, because it is a bunch of blow out, which makes me nervous i guess. I can control the blow out from 2500rpm on, and just ease it up until it falls over. It takes twice as long to get on plane, but i just feel like it is easier on the drive. Let's just say that i will never be able to pull up a skier, even with blow out.

With this prop there is virtually no pad walk unless a cross wake knocks it off the pad. Even then, if you have ever driven a pad bottom boat before, it is just a quick correction and it will smooth out again and be rock solid.

What prop are you using?

Labbed Bravo 1 32"

The local machine shop said no problem modifying the tail pipes. Project to start Wednesday. I expect to be done by the weekend. I will update with the progress.
Don

Post the pix of the transom cut out!!!