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What does it take to remove and replace 502's?

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Old 04-30-2008, 09:18 PM
  #11
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I unfortunately have plenty of experience pulling a pair of 502's out of a 38 special. As we have done it 5 times in the last year I can tell you the following:

Drives: If bravos 1/2hr to 3/4hr for both.
1. If you have a drive mounted pitot for the speedo don't forget to disconnect 1st. (Very easy if the drives are up but not so easy once you have the drives half way off, trust me)
It is attached to the top front of the cavitation plate
2. Remove Tie Bar between drives
3. Disconnect the drive rams frome the drive( not the transom assembly)
4. Remove the 6 nuts from the drive.
5. Pull drive back about 1/2" then go to the right side of the drive and disconnect the shifting linkage(I use a forklift to support the drive under the cavitation plate as it is heavier than it looks)
6. Pull the drive off(if you did not pay attention to step 1 this is where you rememeber as the speedo tube stretches about 2 feet before it breaks)

Remove engines: 1.25 hours each (at a non NASCAR pace)A bit of prep work(like getting all of the tools you will need together in a tray) makes this process go relatively fast while not having to be running around a lot. I disconnect the battery to assure myself there is nothing bad coming. Reovme the engine hatch and tie off the ram so it doesn't keep falling down and hitting you on the head(ouch) (We use a forklift and a few straps) I like to start with the starboard engine as it makes it easier to get to the port starter and raw water hose after the 1st engine is removed.
1. I start by removing the throttle linkage nuts ((3) 1/4-20 nuts) from the right riser then pulling that riser and exhaust pipe extension together((4) long 7/16" bolts and 2 hose clamps) (I don't have Y pipes or diverters as I removed them and capped the holes in the transom assembly with blank off plates the first time)
2. Pull the drive oil resivoir from it's clip and disconnect the two alarm wires. I leave the oil line attached and set it aside(my opinion is that there is no reason to disconnect the line as it does not interfere with pulling the motor)
3. Next disconnect the throttle linkage from the throttle body and plenum. (1) 1/4-20 nut from the plenum and (1) 1/4-20 nut from the throttle body
4. Disconect the fuel line from the fuel pump/fuel filter(this is a pain in the a**)
5. Disconnect the boat wiring harness from the engine( big black plug held on with 1 hose clamp)
6. moving down the right side of the motor next disconnect the starter wires.
7. Disconnect the raw water hose on the raw water pump side leaving it attached to the transom assembly tuck out of the way( this is a pain in the a** also).
8. While I am still on the right side of the engine I remove the engine mounting nut (1 1/16" deepwell socket with a short ratchet works best for me)from this side(I do not have race mounts)
9. Moving to the left side. ther are three wires that need to be removed from the mercathode on ours(1 red , a brown, and I believe a black) I remove the computer/mercathode box from the riser ((3) 1/4-20 nuts) and temporarily fix it to the engine with a welding wire so it is not flopping around)
10. Remove left riser/exhaust pipe as discussed in step 1(our remote oil filter bracket attaches to this riser so we temp fix it to the engine as well with a welding wire so it to does not flop around)
11. Moving to the bottom of the left side take the second motor mount nut off (the is the worst part of the whole job on our boat)
12. Moving to the back of the engine there are two ground studs with various grounds attached to them. disconnect and label or photograph
13. Remove the last two bolts holding the motor to the transom assmebly
14. If you have power steering disconnect the lines from the steering ram(be ready for a slight mess here as they will start to drain as soon as they are loosened) (Starboard motor only)
15. We use a forklift at this point to pull the motor.
16. Repeat for the Port motor

Reinstall engines 2 1/2 hrs each

Reverse of above

I may have missed a step but this is it for the most part. While I am happy to tell you my method, your boat may be slightly different (We have two Gen 6 MPIs) so some modification of the outlined steps may be necessary. Good luck.

Last edited by Specialized; 04-30-2008 at 09:20 PM. Reason: can't count
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Old 04-30-2008, 09:24 PM
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Why are you yanking motors so often?
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Old 04-30-2008, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by GO4BROKE View Post
Easy job. Just take your time.
I agree. I am not a mechanic just don't like to pay for something I think I can do myself. I have learned the hard way though that you need to know your limitations

Last edited by Specialized; 05-01-2008 at 08:01 AM.
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Old 04-30-2008, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Specialized View Post
I unfortunately have plenty of experience pulling a pair of 502's out of a 38 special. As we have done it 5 times in the last year I can tell you the following:

Drives: If bravos 1/2hr to 3/4hr for both.
1. If you have a drive mounted pitot for the speedo don't forget to disconnect 1st. (Very easy if the drives are up but not so easy once you have the drives half way off, trust me)
It is attached to the top front of the cavitation plate
2. Remove Tie Bar between drives
3. Disconnect the drive rams frome the drive( not the transom assembly)
4. Remove the 6 nuts from the drive.
5. Pull drive back about 1/2" then go to the right side of the drive and disconnect the shifting linkage(I use a forklift to support the drive under the cavitation plate as it is heavier than it looks)
6. Pull the drive off(if you did not pay attention to step 1 this is where you rememeber as the speedo tube stretches about 2 feet before it breaks)

Remove engines: 1.25 hours each (at a non NASCAR pace)A bit of prep work(like getting all of the tools you will need together in a tray) makes this process go relatively fast while not having to be running around a lot. I disconnect the battery to assure myself there is nothing bad coming. Reovme the engine hatch and tie off the ram so it doesn't keep falling down and hitting you on the head(ouch) (We use a forklift and a few straps) I like to start with the starboard engine as it makes it easier to get to the port starter and raw water hose after the 1st engine is removed.
1. I start by removing the throttle linkage nuts ((3) 1/4-20 nuts) from the right riser then pulling that riser and exhaust pipe extension together((4) long 7/16" bolts and 2 hose clamps) (I don't have Y pipes or diverters as I removed them and capped the holes in the transom assembly with blank off plates the first time)
2. Pull the drive oil resivoir from it's clip and disconnect the two alarm wires. I leave the oil line attached and set it aside(my opinion is that there is no reason to disconnect the line as it does not interfere with pulling the motor)
3. Next disconnect the throttle linkage from the throttle body and plenum. (1) 1/4-20 nut from the plenum and (1) 1/4-20 nut from the throttle body
4. Disconect the fuel line from the fuel pump/fuel filter(this is a pain in the a**)
5. Disconnect the boat wiring harness from the engine( big black plug held on with 1 hose clamp)
6. moving down the right side of the motor next disconnect the starter wires.
7. Disconnect the raw water hose on the raw water pump side leaving it attached to the transom assembly tuck out of the way( this is a pain in the a** also).
8. While I am still on the right side of the engine I remove the engine mounting nut (1 1/16" deepwell socket with a short ratchet works best for me)from this side(I do not have race mounts)
9. Moving to the left side. ther are three wires that need to be removed from the mercathode on ours(1 red , a brown, and I believe a black) I remove the computer/mercathode box from the riser ((3) 1/4-20 nuts) and temporarily fix it to the engine with a welding wire so it is not flopping around)
10. Remove left riser/exhaust pipe as discussed in step 1(our remote oil filter bracket attaches to this riser so we temp fix it to the engine as well with a welding wire so it to does not flop around)
11. Moving to the bottom of the left side take the second motor mount nut off (the is the worst part of the whole job on our boat)
12. Moving to the back of the engine there are two ground studs with various grounds attached to them. disconnect and label or photograph
13. Remove the last two bolts holding the motor to the transom assmebly
14. If you have power steering disconnect the lines from the steering ram(be ready for a slight mess here as they will start to drain as soon as they are loosened) (Starboard motor only)
15. We use a forklift at this point to pull the motor.
16. Repeat for the Port motor

Reinstall engines 2 1/2 hrs each

Reverse of above

I may have missed a step but this is it for the most part. While I am happy to tell you my method, your boat may be slightly different (We have two Gen 6 MPIs) so some modification of the outlined steps may be necessary. Good luck.


According to your stated times, if my calculations are correct, you can have your motors out of your boat faster than I could retype your instructions ! Makes me thirsty just readin' it
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Old 04-30-2008, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GO4BROKE View Post
Why are you yanking motors so often?
Its kind of a long story but suffice it to say that if you ever have an oil pan sandblasted make sure they don't sandblast the inside (This is the downside of learning as you go)
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Old 04-30-2008, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by AIR TIME View Post
8 hours in and out. it takes me about 2 hours if that.
Next time your helpin.
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Old 04-30-2008, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Screamineagle View Post
According to your stated times, if my calculations are correct, you can have your motors out of your boat faster than I could retype your instructions ! Makes me thirsty just readin' it
No doubt!
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Old 04-30-2008, 10:07 PM
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If its a fountain I can have the motors out in hour in a half. Batt. cables & starter wires, Water lines, Mercathode, MSD boxes(If any and mounting depends) Shift linkage, throttle cable, fuel lines, and motor mounts. Some boats depending of the size of the bilge you can pull the motors with the drives still on. The only thing is that the drive does need to be off for the motor to go back in. Just a bit of advice if you need the motors out quick. I think thats everything in a nut shell.

Last edited by fountain44; 04-30-2008 at 10:08 PM. Reason: Add
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Old 04-30-2008, 10:19 PM
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I use a crane
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Old 05-01-2008, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by fountain44 View Post
If its a fountain I can have the motors out in hour in a half. Batt. cables & starter wires, Water lines, Mercathode, MSD boxes(If any and mounting depends) Shift linkage, throttle cable, fuel lines, and motor mounts. Some boats depending of the size of the bilge you can pull the motors with the drives still on. The only thing is that the drive does need to be off for the motor to go back in. Just a bit of advice if you need the motors out quick. I think thats everything in a nut shell.
How do you pull them with the drives still on? On our boat the drive shaft splines into the hub which is inaccessable without taking the bell housing off.
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