Like Tree0Likes

Shore Power wiring question

Reply
Old 03-25-2010, 06:55 AM
  #1
Gold Member
Gold Member
Thread Starter
 
neva satisfied's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Maine
My Boats: Donzi
Posts: 340
Default Shore Power wiring question

http://bluesea.com/files/resources/i...tions/9582.pdfI just finished picking up all the parts to install my shore power and I have a grounding question. The articles I"ve read state that the AC ground (green wire) needs to be tied into the boats grounding system. What is the correct way to do this? I planned on running from the shore power inlet, to the breaker panel, then to all the circuts. Please keep in mind this is a basic system with a battery charger and two outlets. Would anyone have a wiring diagram that I could see that might help me out? I just don't want to take any chances and have someone get hurt. Thanks If it helps, the panel I am using is a blue seas 8058 as shown above.
neva satisfied is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2010, 09:38 AM
  #2
Charter Member #139 /Moderator/Platinum Member
Charter Member
 
klaw's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: McHenry IL /Duck Key FL
My Boats: 1989 Cigarette Bullet cig 20 resto mod
Posts: 2,201
Default

bad link
__________________
Kept the Bullet and the condo and joined the cig 20 restoration club.
klaw is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2010, 10:46 AM
  #3
Geronimo36
Gold Member
 
Panther's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Elkton, MD
My Boats: 36' Apache Warrior / 22' Apache Scout
Posts: 11,838
Default

I assume you're referring to the bonding wire?
http://bluesea.com/viewresource/88
Panther is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2010, 07:59 PM
  #4
Gold Member
Gold Member
Thread Starter
 
neva satisfied's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Maine
My Boats: Donzi
Posts: 340
Default

Yes, that is the one. Maybe I'mreading this wrong, but it seems to me that if the AC and DC system are hooked together using this wire it would alow stray current if any to discharge into the DC system. Wouldn't that be a little risky? Woudn't it be better to keep the AC system independent from any other system by not installing this wire?

Last edited by neva satisfied; 03-25-2010 at 08:14 PM.
neva satisfied is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2010, 02:09 PM
  #5
Ginger or Mary Ann?
Charter Member
Trade Score: (1)
 
US1 Fountain's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Lafayette. IN
Posts: 10,866
Default

Remember, the black AC wire is not the same as the black DC wire.
edited for your well being
__________________
Some people are like Slinkies - Not really good for anything, but they
bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.

Last edited by US1 Fountain; 03-26-2010 at 06:16 PM.
US1 Fountain is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2010, 03:06 PM
  #6
Diamond Member #001
Charter Member
Trade Score: (2)
 
C_Spray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Coastal North Carolina
My Boats: 2000 Formula 382 with Innovation 600's
Posts: 4,789
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by US1 Fountain View Post
...They now recommend to use red for your 12VDC pos so no chance of confusion.
I think you mean yellow for 12VDC negative. That eliminates the black/black confusion.

If you have no battery charger or other device that uses both AC and DC, or if you have no bonding system in your boat, you might be able to keep the 110VAC system separate, but:

From BoatUS:
"Grounding
The green "grounding" wire in AC circuits provides a low resistance path to ground should any of the various metal cases enclosing your AC system become energized. But what if the leak is into the DC wiring, caused, for example, by crossed wires or a short in a battery charger, inverter, or other dual-voltage appliance? AC leaking into the DC system will seek ground, meaning it will automatically travel through the wiring to the ground connection on the engine and down the prop shaft to the water. This is essentially the same as dropping a hot wire into the water. In fresh water, this poses a real risk of electrocution for anyone in the water nearby. Electrocution is less likely in saltwater, but the current field can be enough to paralyze muscles and cause a swimmer to drown.

Connecting the green wire to the ground terminal on the engine offers AC leakage into the DC system a lower-resistance path to ground--through the grounding wire. This eliminates the risk to swimmers as long as the grounding wire connection to ground is sound. However, if corrosion on the ground prong of your dock cord or some other fault breaks the ground connection, all ground-fault current, not just AC to DC leakage, will flow into the water. It is essential to test the ground connection at the dock and to maintain cords and plugs in good condition.

In your breaker box at home the neutral wires and grounding wires all connect to the same terminal strip (or bus bar), but on a boat the AC grounding wire is connected to the DC ground. Also connecting the neutral wire to it makes underwater hardware a current-carrying path to ground, potentially lethal for anyone in the water nearby. On a boat the neutral (white) conductor and the grounding (green) conductor MUST NEVER BE DIRECTLY CONNECTED."
__________________
Retired! Boating full-time now.

Last edited by C_Spray; 03-26-2010 at 03:40 PM.
C_Spray is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2010, 03:39 PM
  #7
Registered
Trade Score: (1)
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Michigan
My Boats: 29 PHANTOM 36 SKATER 38 POWERQUEST
Posts: 3,193
Default

Has anyone seen a clean looking connector for the side of the boat? Maybe similar to a billet fuel fill? Im moving my fuel fill forward a foot rather than routing the fuel fill tube thru the rear bulkhead and figured I could fill the old hole with a shore power connection. Anyone seen such a thing?
fantastixvoyage is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2010, 03:56 PM
  #8
Diamond Member #001
Charter Member
Trade Score: (2)
 
C_Spray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Coastal North Carolina
My Boats: 2000 Formula 382 with Innovation 600's
Posts: 4,789
Default

Hubbell makes a polished (and pricy) stainless steel cover. Marinco make a fairly stylish plastic one with a brushed stainless accent. You could paint the plastic part to match or compliment your boat.
Attached Images
  
__________________
Retired! Boating full-time now.
C_Spray is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2010, 04:24 PM
  #9
Registered
Trade Score: (1)
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Michigan
My Boats: 29 PHANTOM 36 SKATER 38 POWERQUEST
Posts: 3,193
Default

Thanks. Seems like there could be a market for Get Real or one of the other billet manufacturers!
fantastixvoyage is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2010, 04:34 PM
  #10
Platinum Member
Platinum Member
 
BDiggity's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: OP/LOTO
My Boats: 91 Cig Cafe
Posts: 1,619
Default

Thanks for bringing this up because i am about to put in my new panels. Originally the boat only had ac (one recept) when on shore. I added a Xantrex charger/inverter. My shore power now runs to the Xantrex. Then from there it will run to my Blue Sea 1214. So according to the Blue Sea doc, i think this is how it should be wired. What confuses me is how the neutral & grounds from the loads are to be connected.

BDiggity is offline  
Reply With Quote
Reply



Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:31 AM.


Copyright 2011 OffShoreOnly. All rights reserved.