I give up
06-03-2002, 03:25 PM
#11
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Transome Bolts
Jason,
I had the same problem a few years ago
with the rear two bolts.
It's kinda crewed but it's cheaper than
the frustration.
I used a saw zaw on one set and a torch
on the other set. Then you can take a
punch and drive them write out the bottom.
The saw diffently works better for your
ease of driving them out afterwards.
They are cheap to replace.
Might be easier to hook your hoist on the engine
first. Put a little tension on it and take you side mounts loose. Then unbolt the rear bell
houseing from the engine. Then just take the whole engine out so it's easier to work on those
rear bolts. Remember you need to go forward a
1/2 inch before you go up with the engine. There is two dowels that go from your engine block into your bell houseing. You don't need them hanging you up.
Good luck
It will all come together.
Cougarman
I had the same problem a few years ago
with the rear two bolts.
It's kinda crewed but it's cheaper than
the frustration.
I used a saw zaw on one set and a torch
on the other set. Then you can take a
punch and drive them write out the bottom.
The saw diffently works better for your
ease of driving them out afterwards.
They are cheap to replace.
Might be easier to hook your hoist on the engine
first. Put a little tension on it and take you side mounts loose. Then unbolt the rear bell
houseing from the engine. Then just take the whole engine out so it's easier to work on those
rear bolts. Remember you need to go forward a
1/2 inch before you go up with the engine. There is two dowels that go from your engine block into your bell houseing. You don't need them hanging you up.
Good luck
It will all come together.
Cougarman
06-03-2002, 03:36 PM
#12
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Oh, basically break the little tabs holding the nut in place under the transom mount?
I get it, that is not a bad idea at all.
huh
Ill look at that when I get home
Thanks Coug
Jason
I get it, that is not a bad idea at all.
huh
Ill look at that when I get home
Thanks Coug
Jason
06-03-2002, 03:46 PM
#13
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Platinum Member
Break what tabs ?
Jason,
Your not breaking anything.
Your just cutting the heads off the
top of those bolts, then you can
lift the bell housing off.
Then the choice is yours with the rest of the stud. Those two litte tabs just hold your
nut in there so you don't have to have
3 arms when threading the new stud in.
It's up to you how bad you want them.
But if you decide you don't need them
it might be better to grind them tabs once
you lift the bell housing off. Rather
than break them.
Cougarman
Your not breaking anything.
Your just cutting the heads off the
top of those bolts, then you can
lift the bell housing off.
Then the choice is yours with the rest of the stud. Those two litte tabs just hold your
nut in there so you don't have to have
3 arms when threading the new stud in.
It's up to you how bad you want them.
But if you decide you don't need them
it might be better to grind them tabs once
you lift the bell housing off. Rather
than break them.
Cougarman
06-03-2002, 03:52 PM
#14
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well with the top of the bolt sawed off, all that is left is the shank of the bolt, so you said take a punch and drive them out the bottom, the nut is still going to be on the bolt so the nut will break off the tabs when you slam it with a hammer
Ill deal with holding the nut with my hand if I have to to put a new engine in
As far as tilting the engine , I dont think my particular hull design will accomodate that, engine compartment on a 280 Baja has to be the tightest engine room ever known to man
and that is with the back seat out
I have about 6 inches between the crank pully and the floor in front of it
Doubt it will tilt that much.
i dont even think I can get a pulley puller in there on the crank pulley
How bad is it to cut the top of the bolt off with a sawzall?
Ill deal with holding the nut with my hand if I have to to put a new engine in
As far as tilting the engine , I dont think my particular hull design will accomodate that, engine compartment on a 280 Baja has to be the tightest engine room ever known to man
and that is with the back seat out
I have about 6 inches between the crank pully and the floor in front of it
Doubt it will tilt that much.
i dont even think I can get a pulley puller in there on the crank pulley
How bad is it to cut the top of the bolt off with a sawzall?
06-03-2002, 03:52 PM
#15
Yo Jay...relax dude. This is just a little snag that we'll get though...don't worry about it.
You've come this far with the project and have everthing you need to finish it. Don't let two PHKED UP bolts ruin you dream dude.
Just keep thinking of all the visions you had when the boat will be complete....the mirrored, 200 yd. remote control hatch with all chromed engine accesories....the new paint....the sound of twin through hull exhuast pulling up on Deleware Ave....Think about that stuff again, relax for a minute, and let's fix this.
Give me a call...I'm free most of the nights this week.
Mark
You've come this far with the project and have everthing you need to finish it. Don't let two PHKED UP bolts ruin you dream dude.
Just keep thinking of all the visions you had when the boat will be complete....the mirrored, 200 yd. remote control hatch with all chromed engine accesories....the new paint....the sound of twin through hull exhuast pulling up on Deleware Ave....Think about that stuff again, relax for a minute, and let's fix this.
Give me a call...I'm free most of the nights this week.
Mark
06-03-2002, 04:00 PM
#17
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I have a small one yes
Works though
Used it to zip off with the impact gun the exhaust manifolds and stuff
what you got?
Have an air chizel at home if that is what your talking about
Let me know
Jason
Works though
Used it to zip off with the impact gun the exhaust manifolds and stuff
what you got?
Have an air chizel at home if that is what your talking about
Let me know
Jason
06-03-2002, 04:01 PM
#18
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Jay,
nothing like having someone hit you when your down and tell you they told you so...
hang in there...and don't give up yet. Taka a day off from the boat and then go back to it...Fred is wise beyond his many years
If you go out and buy another boat, you could very well be in this predicament again. On the other hand if you put the 1800runsnew motors, you stand a better chance of having a trouble free season. Aside from that, you'll have an idea about the rest of the parts on the boat and how to get at everthing to fix it...you'll know every nook and cranny and that should give you some piece of mind while out on the water---there won't be any question marks about what may or may not break down.
Good luck and the idea about the bolts sounds good, but try soaking them with penetrating oil first and then try a little heat...those bolts are a pretty soft metal and I think the nuts are aluminum so they mey be frozen in the mount...
nothing like having someone hit you when your down and tell you they told you so...
hang in there...and don't give up yet. Taka a day off from the boat and then go back to it...Fred is wise beyond his many years
If you go out and buy another boat, you could very well be in this predicament again. On the other hand if you put the 1800runsnew motors, you stand a better chance of having a trouble free season. Aside from that, you'll have an idea about the rest of the parts on the boat and how to get at everthing to fix it...you'll know every nook and cranny and that should give you some piece of mind while out on the water---there won't be any question marks about what may or may not break down.
Good luck and the idea about the bolts sounds good, but try soaking them with penetrating oil first and then try a little heat...those bolts are a pretty soft metal and I think the nuts are aluminum so they mey be frozen in the mount...
06-03-2002, 04:14 PM
#19
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Jay Those bolts might be stainless or grade 8 bolts. if they are it would be good to use a carbide saw blade to cut through them or use a cut off wheel. regular blades go dull quickly on hard metal. so if at all possible I would use the cut off wheel. Dont worry .Its not that bad. I been working on my boat for two years now. I just have 3 weeks to go and she is done. I cant wait Good luck
Paul
Good luck Paul
06-03-2002, 04:20 PM
#20
Jay...
I have a 5hp compressor that runs off regular 110v. The cutoff tool is an air tool that has a 1/16 inch cutoff disc on it. Should cut it off, but it takes alot of (consistant) air to run that tool. (75psi)
I guess anything you use to ttake the head off is going to put some gouges in the mount housing (where the head of the bolt meets the mount). Will this matter on the new motor install...anyone??...I would imagine we can file/sand the gouges smooth again and use a washer for the new bolts (rather than replacing the mount) right??
You still have my #??? 215-485-1459. I can throw the compressor in the truck and come up your house.
Mark
I have a 5hp compressor that runs off regular 110v. The cutoff tool is an air tool that has a 1/16 inch cutoff disc on it. Should cut it off, but it takes alot of (consistant) air to run that tool. (75psi)
I guess anything you use to ttake the head off is going to put some gouges in the mount housing (where the head of the bolt meets the mount). Will this matter on the new motor install...anyone??...I would imagine we can file/sand the gouges smooth again and use a washer for the new bolts (rather than replacing the mount) right??
You still have my #??? 215-485-1459. I can throw the compressor in the truck and come up your house.
Mark
Last edited by hi-perf-2000; 06-03-2002 at 04:23 PM.
