Season over....tossed a rod...

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08-17-2014 | 11:03 PM
  #21  
Quote: I think your assessment is on in that it broke a rod bolt, which then caused all hell to break loose.
I didn't see it specified in the link, but those rods probably have ARP 8740 bolts, which are the cheaper bolts. Personally, I won't use the 8740 bolts. Even if I use an import set of rods, I still go for the 2000 bolts.

You mentioned using Eagle crank and rods in the rebuild. IMO, there are much better choices out there in the same price range. But that's my opinion. I will not use Eagle's stuff. I know there are quite a few other builders that feel the same way.

Sorry about your troubles. Sounds like you aren't to upset, so that's good. Good luck with it.
Eddie
+1,,i hate eagle sh!t,,never had goo luck either..if you want a cheaper crank i like the crower or lunati cranks betterbut if i had no budger my first choice would be a winberg or a bryant crank..Same goes with their rods and like eddie mentioned 200 rod bolts.. b4 you take them apart see if you can stretch the bolts but you will need a rod bolt gauge first..
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08-18-2014 | 12:52 AM
  #22  
OP, take a look at Callies Compstar. Scat is also good. You aren't going to the moon, so IMO a $1500 crank is just money wasted. Here's to better bulletproof motors in 2015!
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08-18-2014 | 05:00 AM
  #23  
Thanks guys I wonder like even with the pbm stuff in there who actually makes it? Stuff looks nice and is almost the same money as others .... Is there really much difference once it's all machined and checked? That's what I wanna research, I don't need crazy expensive parts as I have a 1985 35 cig I don't need 30,000.00 engines you know? Luckily the recipe parts are there just need to rebuild...
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08-18-2014 | 05:36 AM
  #24  
What did you change other than the relief valves to lower the oil temps?
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08-18-2014 | 05:43 AM
  #25  
That sucks man! I pulled my motor 2 seasons ago because I wanted the heads checked. Wound up pulling the whole motor down remembering I only saw 10lbs of oil pressure at times. Brass through all the main bearings. But because of really low budget I'll be another season before it runs again! Let us know what you find!
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08-18-2014 | 06:13 AM
  #26  
Quote: What did you change other than the relief valves to lower the oil temps?
That was it, the 30 lb valves keep the oil from bypassing coolers and filters.... I could run it in dash all day and both engines were 200-220 tops with the old valves I'm scarab when I got it they were 250+ at 4000.... That will wipe engine fast!!
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08-18-2014 | 07:30 AM
  #27  
I think you went a tad overboard on crankcase ventilation! Keep us apprised on the new builds.
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08-18-2014 | 07:38 AM
  #28  
Lol will do!!
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08-18-2014 | 09:33 AM
  #29  
At least one block is stress relieved now, you know, "seasoned".

That sucks man, I feel your pain.....
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08-18-2014 | 10:25 AM
  #30  
Yaaaa it happens haha I never made it up there Saturday we will grab a beer soon, I will be around much more now
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