Season over....tossed a rod...
08-18-2014, 11:16 AM
#32
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I think your assessment is on in that it broke a rod bolt, which then caused all hell to break loose.
I didn't see it specified in the link, but those rods probably have ARP 8740 bolts, which are the cheaper bolts. Personally, I won't use the 8740 bolts. Even if I use an import set of rods, I still go for the 2000 bolts.
You mentioned using Eagle crank and rods in the rebuild. IMO, there are much better choices out there in the same price range. But that's my opinion. I will not use Eagle's stuff. I know there are quite a few other builders that feel the same way.
Sorry about your troubles. Sounds like you aren't to upset, so that's good. Good luck with it.
Eddie
I didn't see it specified in the link, but those rods probably have ARP 8740 bolts, which are the cheaper bolts. Personally, I won't use the 8740 bolts. Even if I use an import set of rods, I still go for the 2000 bolts.
You mentioned using Eagle crank and rods in the rebuild. IMO, there are much better choices out there in the same price range. But that's my opinion. I will not use Eagle's stuff. I know there are quite a few other builders that feel the same way.
Sorry about your troubles. Sounds like you aren't to upset, so that's good. Good luck with it.
Eddie
08-18-2014, 11:29 AM
#33
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My lunch time Google search found many references to the PBM H-Beams coming from Scat. I do not know if it's true or not but that is what I found thru 'La La Land.' in 10 minutes.
08-18-2014, 11:57 AM
#34
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Absolutely, I will upgrade bolts for sure and research if the rods are as good as any other in the price range, the pbm may be a lower end but are they actually a "bad" choice? That's what I gotta see and research
08-18-2014, 11:59 AM
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I think your assessment is on in that it broke a rod bolt, which then caused all hell to break loose.
I didn't see it specified in the link, but those rods probably have ARP 8740 bolts, which are the cheaper bolts. Personally, I won't use the 8740 bolts. Even if I use an import set of rods, I still go for the 2000 bolts.
You mentioned using Eagle crank and rods in the rebuild. IMO, there are much better choices out there in the same price range. But that's my opinion. I will not use Eagle's stuff. I know there are quite a few other builders that feel the same way.
Sorry about your troubles. Sounds like you aren't to upset, so that's good. Good luck with it.
Eddie
I didn't see it specified in the link, but those rods probably have ARP 8740 bolts, which are the cheaper bolts. Personally, I won't use the 8740 bolts. Even if I use an import set of rods, I still go for the 2000 bolts.
You mentioned using Eagle crank and rods in the rebuild. IMO, there are much better choices out there in the same price range. But that's my opinion. I will not use Eagle's stuff. I know there are quite a few other builders that feel the same way.
Sorry about your troubles. Sounds like you aren't to upset, so that's good. Good luck with it.
Eddie
08-18-2014, 01:02 PM
#37
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Eddie
08-18-2014, 01:06 PM
#38
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I have never used any of PBM's parts, so I can't really comment either way. I have used plenty of Scat rods and cranks. They are decent and certainly have their place as stock replacement parts. As with anything, you get what you pay for. As Lil Red mentioned, the Callies Compstar is well worth the small up-charge. They offer rods in both an H beam and an I beam. The H beam rods are a few hundred cheaper and would be more than sufficient for what you are doing. However, you have to think about the future. Do you ever think you may want more power in the future? If so, make sure you plan for it. What I'm saying is don't buy parts good enough for 600 hp when you think there is a chance (however slight it may be) that you may want to make 700 hp in the future. It would make more sense to spend a few hundred more now instead of starting over later. You can't put to good of parts in the bottom end. That is the building block of the entire build, so it makes sense to do it right. You will never regret over building the bottom end.
Eddie
Eddie
08-18-2014, 02:11 PM
#40
MarineKinetics
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Full Force,
The PBM connecting rod is a Scat with either a 8740 or 2000 bolt depending upon how it was optioned.
Secondly if you look at the connecting rod, what’s left of the bearing in both the upper shell area and the rod cap exhibit extreme bluing from excessive heat. The considerable heat buildup in that area resulted in the bearing grabbing the crankshaft, at that point the rod and bolts failed as a result of the bearing seizing. It appears the connecting rod assembly may be collateral damage rather than the root cause the failure.
Looking at the second photo it also appears a fracture occurred right in the radius of the rod bolt seat which would be consistent with a connecting rod seizure at the journal.
It’s a bit difficult to analyze from just these two pictures, however it would appear that this may not have been a parts related failure. If you shoot me over couple more pictures I’d be happy to take a look at them for you.
Bob
The PBM connecting rod is a Scat with either a 8740 or 2000 bolt depending upon how it was optioned.
Secondly if you look at the connecting rod, what’s left of the bearing in both the upper shell area and the rod cap exhibit extreme bluing from excessive heat. The considerable heat buildup in that area resulted in the bearing grabbing the crankshaft, at that point the rod and bolts failed as a result of the bearing seizing. It appears the connecting rod assembly may be collateral damage rather than the root cause the failure.
Looking at the second photo it also appears a fracture occurred right in the radius of the rod bolt seat which would be consistent with a connecting rod seizure at the journal.
It’s a bit difficult to analyze from just these two pictures, however it would appear that this may not have been a parts related failure. If you shoot me over couple more pictures I’d be happy to take a look at them for you.
Bob
