After talking to a Mechanic today and reading your guys post. I'm just going to drop it off at the Marina and they can call me when it's fixed. I thought it would be a lot more to pull a motor and put back together. I'll recap this thread when the dust settles what was wrong with it.

Try using something like what www.tracerline.com has to offer for finding your leak sources. We have had good luck using it to find leak sources.

Also google homemade smoke machines for leak detection. Most professional auto shops have them but they run a grand and above in cost. At one time some kid made a homemade smoke machine for leak detection and posted it on youtube if I remember correctly. Could be wrong where I seen it as it was a couple of years ago, he had a really good set up on the cheap.

This is funny some old timers back in the day (showing my age now) use to use a rubber hose connected to a intake source on the motor and blow thick cigar smoke into the hose while the engine was running to find their leak areas.. Anyways use to think that was funny than hell back in the day.

Prob 8 hrs labor to R & R the engine and maybe 4 hrs to replace the rear main + a couple hundred for gaskets, seal, oil, misc.

Please let us know what you find!!

Good luck!!

Hole rusted in the bottom of the oil pan.

Coat your new oil pan externally before installment. I forgot the name of the corrosion resistance product that we painted on. I have heard some saltwater marine shops using a coatings like Rhino lining as well. I do not know how well a Rhino lining type of coating will hurt dissipating heat from the oil pan. maybe something to look into if you boat in saltwater to stop rusted out oil pans. FWIW

You take it to Myrick?

por15 works well

That's the one POR 15 = (paint over rust) and there is another one we used.

If the one is rusted thru you have to wonder how far off the other one is.