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I hear you and know the set up as well.
Also remember me talking to you to about trying to take as much heat out of the engine before restart in cold water temps - I wanted to run blowers / air and or Flex O lite fans at the engine plus add vents to diss heat quicker after engine shut down.. My point then was engine shut down / heat soak engine and related systems that become over 200 plus degrees and then restart engine upon 60 degree water temps flowing thru those systems - My words were thermal shock especially to the headers NOT GOOD. I wanted to narrow those large temp swings basically was my point. HOPE this post makes sense to were I was coming from. Just saying. |
Mr. Baja, I tip my hat. The beauty of the KISS principle in action. Thank you for the info. Appreciate the thread also Mark.
Michael |
Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4501179)
I hear you and know the set up as well.
Also remember me talking to you to about trying to take as much heat out of the engine before restart in cold water temps - I wanted to run blowers / air and or Flex O lite fans at the engine plus add vents to diss heat quicker after engine shut down.. My point then was engine shut down / heat soak engine and related systems that become over 200 plus degrees and then restart engine upon 60 degree water temps flowing thru those systems - My words were thermal shock especially to the headers NOT GOOD. I wanted to narrow those large temp swings basically was my point. HOPE this post makes sense to were I was coming from. Just saying. Closed loop cooling your engine temps will stay consistent and if you don't want to shock the headers, draining the water out will actually allow them to cool more evenly. The only downside to this I can think of is can the sea pump move enough water for the coolers, the regular water out the exhaust, and two -04 AN drain lines. I don't think it would be a problem |
Originally Posted by 900HP
(Post 4501187)
We will take a drag race engine and run ice water through it to cool it down fast, you may be over thinking it. Of course we don't expect the longevity you do either.
Closed loop cooling your engine temps will stay consistent and if you don't want to shock the headers, draining the water out will actually allow them to cool more evenly. The only downside to this I can think of is can the sea pump move enough water for the coolers, the regular water out the exhaust, and two -04 AN drain lines. I don't think it would be a problem |
Transom pick up already in the talks or best set up and have talked to TCM for the pick up and or set up.. Actually Eric at TCM to get that end all lined out to see exactly what to install that will work per the set up
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Originally Posted by Black Baja
(Post 4501197)
The problem isn't if the sea pump will pump enough it's getting enough supply to the sea pump. Throw the standard Bravo transom assembly pickup out the window and re-invent the wheel. Put a transom pickup on it and when you in a small single going over 100 and the hull isn't in the water anymore. Throw that out the window and re-invent again. You end up banging your head on the wall trying to figure it out. Then once you get one boat figured out throw that book out the window and start over because all hulls are different and managing water can be a real expensive pain in the azz.
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Originally Posted by 900HP
(Post 4501212)
I'll just stick to the engine building side of it and let BUP bang his head on the wall while experiencing azz pain:D
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What injectors you going to run? Have you tuned efi stack injection before? I noticed I had to make the kpa numbers go by ones near full load or the tune up was not to good.
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Originally Posted by 14 apache
(Post 4501294)
What injectors you going to run? Have you tuned efi stack injection before? I noticed I had to make the kpa numbers go by ones near full load or the tune up was not to good.
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So,is thing ready for the dyno yet ? :D
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