Aluminum vs. Steel trailer
#41
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Northern NY
ragged edge, The manufacturer your talking about is probably who i'd be dealing with since he has built many trailers for my family in the past. But out of curiosity, how are some of the mass produced aluminum trailers like magic trail, loadmaster, etc? the only thing i dont like about them are the two huge bunks they use. Id much rather a nice 4 bunk craddle specific to my boat.
#42
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Great info! Thankyou. I have calls into a bunch of manufacturers. I didn't bother with myco because of their price. Both Broward and evolution said they won't build one small enough and be competitive with other manufacturers. I agree that one of the regular aluminum trailers or "mass produced" trailers by loadmaster, load rite, etc will probably be fine. But from what I have seen they want $3200 plus tax for a new Trailer. I figure for an extra $800 or so ( that was one of the quotes I got, around 4K) I could have a custom one built just for my boat, all welded, etc
#43
You could do a stainless steel trailer and not have to worry about the salt water or painting it. I built this all stainless trailer for a friend that will be pulling his trailer out of the salt water all the time. In the pictures it is rough looking because we were test fitting the boat on it before it is polished but it is being polished right now and will look like a chrome plated trailer.
I could not find a stainless lug nut that would fit so we custom machined him some out of bar stock and went ahead and put his initials in them.
I could not find a stainless lug nut that would fit so we custom machined him some out of bar stock and went ahead and put his initials in them.
#44
Great info! Thankyou. I have calls into a bunch of manufacturers. I didn't bother with myco because of their price. Both Broward and evolution said they won't build one small enough and be competitive with other manufacturers. I agree that one of the regular aluminum trailers or "mass produced" trailers by loadmaster, load rite, etc will probably be fine. But from what I have seen they want $3200 plus tax for a new Trailer. I figure for an extra $800 or so ( that was one of the quotes I got, around 4K) I could have a custom one built just for my boat, all welded, etc
#45
had numerous trailers over the years,,steel ,,aluminum,bunks ,,rollers,, c channel,,box tubing ,leaf spring,,torsion's,etc,as long as the trailer is set up right for the boat and the weight rating is correct they will all do the same job,,it just comes down to preference,
I keep reading about I beam Aluminum trailers (some call them Florida trailers) and how some here thing they are crap,,not sure thats the case.
a lot of reply's with people saying how the rear of the boat is not supported ,,that is false! sure the boat is supported its sitting on two 4x10 wood bunks,yes I know some of the 4x10s is sticking out past the rear cross member usually 18-24" ,but the 4x10s are 12' to 16' feet long depending on the size of the trailer,and those 4x10s are not flexing so no worries there,(kind like a balcony is supported on a building)
some say aluminum flexes ,sure it does but a 35' foot steel trailer will flex as well,not as much as aluminum but a long enough steel trailer will flex as well,ever stand on a steel bridge?sure does flex.
I personally thing a aluminum correctly set up trailer with 4x10 bunks will support the hull better than the custom expensive steel trailers,like I said earlier the 4x10s do not flex try pushing on one and you wont be able to move it,,but on steel trailers most manufactures use 2x6 bunks, that causes pressure points on the hull of a boat,your boat is actually only supported only were the bunk brackets are,anywhere in between the bunk brackets you can push that 2x6 up and down,
so what ever trailer you go with just remember ,,1 to maintain it,,and 2 is to use safety straps..and no reason to put a $20k trailer under a $40k boat.
I keep reading about I beam Aluminum trailers (some call them Florida trailers) and how some here thing they are crap,,not sure thats the case.
a lot of reply's with people saying how the rear of the boat is not supported ,,that is false! sure the boat is supported its sitting on two 4x10 wood bunks,yes I know some of the 4x10s is sticking out past the rear cross member usually 18-24" ,but the 4x10s are 12' to 16' feet long depending on the size of the trailer,and those 4x10s are not flexing so no worries there,(kind like a balcony is supported on a building)
some say aluminum flexes ,sure it does but a 35' foot steel trailer will flex as well,not as much as aluminum but a long enough steel trailer will flex as well,ever stand on a steel bridge?sure does flex.
I personally thing a aluminum correctly set up trailer with 4x10 bunks will support the hull better than the custom expensive steel trailers,like I said earlier the 4x10s do not flex try pushing on one and you wont be able to move it,,but on steel trailers most manufactures use 2x6 bunks, that causes pressure points on the hull of a boat,your boat is actually only supported only were the bunk brackets are,anywhere in between the bunk brackets you can push that 2x6 up and down,
so what ever trailer you go with just remember ,,1 to maintain it,,and 2 is to use safety straps..and no reason to put a $20k trailer under a $40k boat.
This is from my experience, not meant to offend anyone or get anyone typing like a madman. Talk to some trailer builders, look what boat manufacturers put under their new boats. I have had custom alum, custom steel and bolt together alum.. They all fit a certain need and want, you as the owner have to choose what will work for you.
As far as welded alum vs steel, its what you prefer. For resale the alum gets the edge because your market is open to fresh and salt water owners. If thats not a concern to you then you have choices.
Last edited by VoodooRob; 12-19-2017 at 08:23 AM.
#46
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Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 553
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From: Buffalo, NY
You could do a stainless steel trailer and not have to worry about the salt water or painting it. I built this all stainless trailer for a friend that will be pulling his trailer out of the salt water all the time. In the pictures it is rough looking because we were test fitting the boat on it before it is polished but it is being polished right now and will look like a chrome plated trailer.
I could not find a stainless lug nut that would fit so we custom machined him some out of bar stock and went ahead and put his initials in them.
I could not find a stainless lug nut that would fit so we custom machined him some out of bar stock and went ahead and put his initials in them.
#47
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Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 553
Likes: 1
From: Buffalo, NY
Pics are a very typical construction of what people refer to when conversing about bolt together, aluminum I beam trailers. Manufacturer lists as 15k lbs. I get where your going with the support comparison and the cantilever but there are flaws to your argument. A boat trailer is in a temporary submersed environment (soaking the wood every time it is used) and the trailer is also a moving object subject to shifting weight load coupled with outside forces vs your comparison. The 2 main bunks, there are a lot of 3" and even 2" used out there. I haven't come across the 4" but Im sure its out there as you indicated. Road forces, ramp duties, and more come into play. Example: a bunk system used for rack storage is going to see different loads and forces than a trailer on the road. Its not just the bunks you have to look at most of the bolt together trailers have an axle without brakes, the axles/tires are usually just adequate, and the tongues sometimes are way to long. Im sure you have seen that, after research I found out thats because some trailer manufacturers use one frame for a range of sizes and move the axles and bunks as needed. I went more thorough this last purchase and visited the Loadmaster and Manning factory and also had an in depth conversation with Myco. Received quotes and trailer education from all 3, before having our trailer built. I have also purchased a bolt together twice so don't think Im focusing on one brand or type vs another. A new bolt together fit what we needed 3 boats ago, $20k boat needs a trailer, not going to put $15k of trailer under it. $3,800, This was almost 10 yrs ago, and we were boating. "Diamond Plate" fenders wobbled going down the road and the trailer would float by itself no kidding, not easy to load without adding weights. It worked good enough and we had fun. After moving up a few boats and using custom built trailers now I get what custom trailer owners were telling me. The load is spread and supported thru the whole frame of the trailer by using multiple sets of bunks. Going down the road the boat is seated, solid and fitted to the trailer vs what I had before sitting on top of and twisting when taking turns.This also makes for very easy loading and centering by itself every single time the exact same way at the ramp.
This is from my experience, not meant to offend anyone or get anyone typing like a madman. Talk to some trailer builders, look what boat manufacturers put under their new boats. I have had custom alum, custom steel and bolt together alum.. They all fit a certain need and want, you as the owner have to choose what will work for you.
As far as welded alum vs steel, its what you prefer. For resale the alum gets the edge because your market is open to fresh and salt water owners. If thats not a concern to you then you have choices.
This is from my experience, not meant to offend anyone or get anyone typing like a madman. Talk to some trailer builders, look what boat manufacturers put under their new boats. I have had custom alum, custom steel and bolt together alum.. They all fit a certain need and want, you as the owner have to choose what will work for you.
As far as welded alum vs steel, its what you prefer. For resale the alum gets the edge because your market is open to fresh and salt water owners. If thats not a concern to you then you have choices.
#48
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Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 553
Likes: 1
From: Buffalo, NY
had numerous trailers over the years,,steel ,,aluminum,bunks ,,rollers,, c channel,,box tubing ,leaf spring,,torsion's,etc,as long as the trailer is set up right for the boat and the weight rating is correct they will all do the same job,,it just comes down to preference,
I keep reading about I beam Aluminum trailers (some call them Florida trailers) and how some here thing they are crap,,not sure thats the case.
a lot of reply's with people saying how the rear of the boat is not supported ,,that is false! sure the boat is supported its sitting on two 4x10 wood bunks,yes I know some of the 4x10s is sticking out past the rear cross member usually 18-24" ,but the 4x10s are 12' to 16' feet long depending on the size of the trailer,and those 4x10s are not flexing so no worries there,(kind like a balcony is supported on a building)
some say aluminum flexes ,sure it does but a 35' foot steel trailer will flex as well,not as much as aluminum but a long enough steel trailer will flex as well,ever stand on a steel bridge?sure does flex.
I personally thing a aluminum correctly set up trailer with 4x10 bunks will support the hull better than the custom expensive steel trailers,like I said earlier the 4x10s do not flex try pushing on one and you wont be able to move it,,but on steel trailers most manufactures use 2x6 bunks, that causes pressure points on the hull of a boat,your boat is actually only supported only were the bunk brackets are,anywhere in between the bunk brackets you can push that 2x6 up and down,
so what ever trailer you go with just remember ,,1 to maintain it,,and 2 is to use safety straps..and no reason to put a $20k trailer under a $40k boat.
I keep reading about I beam Aluminum trailers (some call them Florida trailers) and how some here thing they are crap,,not sure thats the case.
a lot of reply's with people saying how the rear of the boat is not supported ,,that is false! sure the boat is supported its sitting on two 4x10 wood bunks,yes I know some of the 4x10s is sticking out past the rear cross member usually 18-24" ,but the 4x10s are 12' to 16' feet long depending on the size of the trailer,and those 4x10s are not flexing so no worries there,(kind like a balcony is supported on a building)
some say aluminum flexes ,sure it does but a 35' foot steel trailer will flex as well,not as much as aluminum but a long enough steel trailer will flex as well,ever stand on a steel bridge?sure does flex.
I personally thing a aluminum correctly set up trailer with 4x10 bunks will support the hull better than the custom expensive steel trailers,like I said earlier the 4x10s do not flex try pushing on one and you wont be able to move it,,but on steel trailers most manufactures use 2x6 bunks, that causes pressure points on the hull of a boat,your boat is actually only supported only were the bunk brackets are,anywhere in between the bunk brackets you can push that 2x6 up and down,
so what ever trailer you go with just remember ,,1 to maintain it,,and 2 is to use safety straps..and no reason to put a $20k trailer under a $40k boat.
Last edited by veloc410; 12-19-2017 at 10:36 AM.
#49
Are you really sure that Stainless Steel is stronger than regular Steel? And remember, there are tons of different alloys of both out there, so I'm talking the most commonly used alloy of each.
#50
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Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 553
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From: Buffalo, NY
Stainless is much stronger than regular steel. I'm talking 304 316 . Take a a piece of 304 and mild steel sheet metal of the same dimensions and bend them. The stainless is much stronger. Most channel, ibeam, rectangular tube is mild not alloy






