Question for Fellow Boaters that are Street Rodders
11-10-2021 | 11:30 AM
#22
Registered
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,879
Likes: 8
From: Southeast Michigan
My advice, get rid of the 10 bolt. Go 12 bolt or 9 inch. The XKE will probably handle the horsepower, too.
Light car or not, a stock 8.5” might hold up to ~600hp, but an 8.2 won’t. Mine came apart in a 3700lb car w/500hp and I’m really lucky I didn’t lunch the quarterpanels, as the c-clips were in the bottom of the pumpkin on disassembly. Twisted the pinion in half and put a chicane in the trans yoke, too. The new Moser 12 Bolt has 33 spline bolt in axles, 1350 yoke, etc. Way more better.
As has already been stated, boxing or replacing the frame with an aftermarket unit is going to be advantageous to keeping the car together and the body lines right. Seeing paint chipping around door jambs after some hooliganism will break your heart.
My ‘39 five window sits atop a TCI (Total Cost Involved) frame with Mustang II front suspension and parallel 4 link, panhard and sway bar out back. I’m OK with the ride considering it’s on 18.5” wide bias ply tires.
Light car or not, a stock 8.5” might hold up to ~600hp, but an 8.2 won’t. Mine came apart in a 3700lb car w/500hp and I’m really lucky I didn’t lunch the quarterpanels, as the c-clips were in the bottom of the pumpkin on disassembly. Twisted the pinion in half and put a chicane in the trans yoke, too. The new Moser 12 Bolt has 33 spline bolt in axles, 1350 yoke, etc. Way more better.
As has already been stated, boxing or replacing the frame with an aftermarket unit is going to be advantageous to keeping the car together and the body lines right. Seeing paint chipping around door jambs after some hooliganism will break your heart.
My ‘39 five window sits atop a TCI (Total Cost Involved) frame with Mustang II front suspension and parallel 4 link, panhard and sway bar out back. I’m OK with the ride considering it’s on 18.5” wide bias ply tires.
Last edited by Speedracer29; 11-10-2021 at 11:37 AM.
