I just changed my oil on a new 525 HP. I can not understand what the engineers at Mercury were thinking. The thing is upside down with lines coming out of the bottom. No shot at getting a bucket under it, no shot at getting a bag around it and no shot at loading it with oil before you put the new one on!!!! Geeeeezzzeeee really!! I stuffed a bath towel size rag everywhere possible, help a bucket to the side with plastic on the bottom.... Then losened the thing until it leaked and then off to the races. Did pretty well, but did it with the oil cold. My electric pump wants the oil hot in order to suck it out in less than a life time. Well, that meant heating it up, and then waiting for it to cool down before I removed the filter. I was wishing all kinds of sh$t on Mercury.... I am going to call Teague tomarrow to find out what can be purchased to relocate the thing??? Any idea's out there??? Someone said a cut clorox bottle can be fit to work. I don't see it and it does nothing to help load a full filter on. I loved starting the engine and then waiting what seemed a very long time for the presure to build. I could feel the wear.... If anyone works at Mercury, or has a clue to this seemingly dumb design, I'd love to hear it.....

Poke a hole in the top and suck the oil out with your oil changer. And the bilge is supposed to have oil in it to keep all the dropped tools from rusting.

To the Hole punch...
Not sure if you are kidding or not, but I considered that. Then thought about a rare piece of punched out filter getting into the pan etc. Decided I was reaching......

Oil in the bilge part...

That's funny....

I've made this post a few times and it wouldn't post, so if it does show more than once... Sorry, its a Mgt. problem.
I change my oil every 10 hrs so Im ready for a problem solver. My oil filter is mounted horizontal so I use the 100 rag trick. Try to place as many rags under the filter so you don't drip too much oil when you unscrew the filter.

I know some people who have cut a plastic quart container in half and hold it under the filter as they unscrew it.

I poke two holes in the filter, one on top and one at the back on the bottom to get the oil out of the filter, then I hit the switch on the Eikert pre-lubers to get the oil out of the engine.

Robert

Done this for years ( especially on diesels where the oil is like black ink) Drain the oil, disable the ignition ( or cut off the air on diesels ) and crank the engine for 10 second intervals pausing for 30 seconds or so between to let the starter cool. Usually three to four times will pull enough oil out of the filter to reduce the mess dramatically and sometimes completely then evacuate the filter oil thats appeared in the pan. Remember to reverse the procedure to reprime the system after refilling. Starter wear is much less of a problem with the modern ignitions ( cause they start so fast) but I've been doing it this way for 35 years without any unusual starter issues. There is also plenty of oil on bearing surfaces for protection at starter crank speeds.

Tonto is right...Poke the filter and hit the KE pre-lube switch...Done!

Ditto, like a charm.!

I do mine the same way. has always worked great for me until last weekend when i pulled out the bag and it snagged one of the stainless hose clamps....turned the bag into an oil injector it pissed oil out so fast from the little hole.

I've had great luck with something a frien picked up at the hospital. They're called Chucks and are for people who are incontinent. My oil filters are horizontal. I slid one of these Chucks under the filter all the way back to the base. These things are "absorpbent and leakproof". Work like a charm!--Lou