Re: Roller lifters input
 

It is great to see a thread actually discussing solid rollers and how to make them live, rather than just hearing the standard response "you are asking for trouble". So how many hrs of operation can we expect with our valve springs on these motors with solid rollers? I will run the lifters for 2 seasons, which will be 40 - 50 hrs for me. Is this the time to change the springs? Unless someone really has a good argument I will change the springs at the same time and basically start fresh in the lifter / spring department. I am running Isky "292" lifters and Isky 9945 Tool Room Springs with a .740" lift solid roller.

Thanks,

Craig

Re: Roller lifters input
 

Craig, I ran the 68806 for two seasons, 80 plus hrs 7500 to 8000 rpm some of the time, .748 lift. Just replaced them, they lost 30lb on the top end, none were broke. Similar pressure to what you're running, 730lb open.

Re: Roller lifters input
 

I am running the Isky "endurance" springs in at about 2.100 which is about 220# new and after 100 hours they end up around 190. Then they come out. I believe these have a tool room outer with their less expensive inner. They assured me that at 6000 it was all I needed. So far...so good. :D

Re: Roller lifters input
 

I know mine were 250 on the seat when new and after 10 hrs they were at 240. I currently have 15 hrs on the motor and will check them again soon. It is great to hear some success stories with solid rollers!! I have been running them for the past 6 years or so in various motors and only had one close call. I caught it during a valve lash check and no damage was done, but one lifter was ready to go! Man 7500 RPM in a boat sure is a lot!! I thought 6500 RPM out of my NA 598 was a lot, and that is probably your cruising RPM!! LOL!! :drink: It will be very interesting to see how the Turbo Mach 26 will run compared to the Procharged. :D

Re: Roller lifters input
 

GPM,
What is the blower RPM at 7500?
Craig

Re: Roller lifters input
 

It would be interesting.Going to be hard to tell with both of our drives breaking so fast. LOL

Re: Roller lifters input
 

Very nice.I have all of the Max stuff now and its been great.I do know of one person that has twisted up some of their stuff but only that one person.About 900-1000hp in a vee bottom.

I'll be getting the new billet housings here real soon and the lower as well hopefully.

Any idea of how much hp your running?How about some pics of this monster?I'll try and get some pics of my motor(its twin)tomorrow at the shop and put them up.It looks fast so I'd better make sure it is too.LOL What EFI ECM did you use?

Re: Roller lifters input
 

To fast, right around 58000. Ran it that way for 2 seasons, so far so good. My normal cruising rpm is 26 - 2800, 42 - 48 mph.

Re: Roller lifters input
 

Johnny, I think your turbo set up will make more hp than mine. I use the Fast computor and a home made system. I've been running the Max parts with good luck except for the lower gears, they come apart every 4-6 hours. Max is working on a new lower and their own gears, maybe they will work better. The old motor was 1372 hp, I broke a couple of things on the dyno and ran out of time, I didn't get any good numbers on the new motor.

Re: Roller lifters input
 

The lower gears are breaking? I would of thought you are breaking the uppers or the shafts.4-6hrs....that scares me right there.

1372,thats a respectable number!Let me know if you have any pics of your boat and or motor.

Re: Roller lifters input
 

I don't have many pictures of my boat.

Re: Roller lifters input
 

I'm not breaking the gears, the faces are pealing off. I did break the Teague Platnum verticle shaft, just cracking the throttle at 120. I changed all the shafts to the Max stuff, haven't broke one since. There's a picture of the motor on Procharger.com under marine performance.

Re: Roller lifters input
 

I broke a max vert shaft but it had 3 seasons& over 150 hours on it,sheared right above where the splines go into upper gear of lower. Where did you teague shaft break? I figured it should have broke further up where it is much smaller,Smitty

Re: Roller lifters input
 

Good looking boats.I take it yours is the one with the scoop.

Re: Roller lifters input
 

The Teague Platinum shaft broke right below the coupler, it had about 40 hours on it.

Re: Roller lifters input
 

Thanks, it is the one with the scoop, my brother owns the other one. He had DCB raise the swim pad so his blower would fit underneath.

Re: Roller lifters input
 

I didnt understand what you meant by swim pad,but I'm guessing your talking about the engine hatch?

Im going to have to raise my hatch a small amount so far.I'm going to have Dave build me a new fiberglass hatch with the scoops molded into the side for more air.Then have fabric on top so it still looks like a family boat.Should be somewhat of a sleeper and catch a few people off guard for sure.

I was reading the ProCharger.com add and its saying you ran 144?That would put you past Eliminators single engine cat's fastest speed recorded wouldnt it?Thats an incredible number to run,I'll be happy with 130's for what Im trying to acheive here.

I talked to my engine builder and I think I'll stick to my original plan and use Jesel rollers or Crowers stuff.

Re: Roller lifters input
 

Swim pad, sun pad, center pad on the top of the engine hatch, different terms same part. My brother wanted the sleeper look also. My intake was to tall so I went with the scoop, I think it gets more air that way. The 144 was with the old motor. I think you would be happy with the Crower lifters and Jesel shaft rockers, and either Crower or Isky springs. I don't think you will have a problem reaching the upper 130s. What heads are you going to use?

Re: Roller lifters input
 

Dart Pro1 355 cnc's.I think Jesel shaft rockers,Crower sd rollers.903,and Crower cam,Manton push rods,Crower springs?,and titanium retainers and such.I was going to use Brodix or AFR's but for what Im doing and the boost I'll be running I should get by with just the Darts Pro1's.Hopefully the runners are thick enough and dont crack.

Are you going to bring that thing out this way any time soon?

Re: Roller lifters input
 

What boat is it on?

Re: Roller lifters input
 

Does anybody have any pics of their lifter oil spray bars?Or their rocker spray bars?

Re: Roller lifters input
 

27 ft baja w/ m-3 prochargered 540,i was turning 30 pitch prop.aaron and jason at max have always been good to me,i don't blame them at all. It will be a true test this year because i expect to make around 900 hp on dyno this time(approx 150 more than i had before). Smitty

Re: Roller lifters input
 

J DCB, do you already own the Darts? some how we always end up running more boost than planned. It's a long ride to Havasu. What EFI are you going to use?

Re: Roller lifters input
 

Any one have a web site or phone number for Manton??

I have angle milled heads and have done considerable grinding on the push rod holes to make them work. Not sure if I can grind more out to make a 7/16" rod fit, but would if I could. The deflection problem may be the cause of previous failures..

I love this thread.. so much pertinent info.. Gotta Love This Stuff!!

Thanks
Dick

Re: Roller lifters input
 

Dick,
http://www.mantonpushrods.com/
and Smith Bros
http://www.pushrods.net/
Bob

Re: Roller lifters input
 

Yes and no.I have bare heads waiting down at the shop but I could either sell them or Gary might be able to use them on another motor.Why do you ask?So far it will be Autronics EFI,if I decide to keep the power down in the 1000hp range I might be able to use the MEFI4 and have some safe guards built in.

Re: Roller lifters input
 

Mr G, have you thought about the .130 wall 3/8, or the tapered end 7/16.

Re: Roller lifters input
 

I didn't care for the Pro 1s, they seemed a little light for a blower application.

Re: Roller lifters input
 

rmbuilder.. thanks for the web pages.. I'll go take a look!

GPM
No.. I have not had much time to think of anything lately.. I need all the help I can get. Who makes the .130" wall push rods. It looks like the new lifters are about .200" longer than the Isky's I ran on this cam last. So I will need new ones anyway. I had not gotten to that point yet, but was hoping to just drop them in and go.. of course I was going to check the Geometry, but had not made any moves in that direction.

So what are my options. When we rolled the heads (dumb thing to do in this century) I had to slot the daylights out of everything. So it is an issue.

I keep seeing wear marks on the push rods where they enter the heads.. couldnt figure out why.. Now I got it.. The spaghetti sticks are too flimsy for the job. I am thinking I may have room for 7/16" but I would love to use the 3/8" with the thicker wall.
This is good news.. gets me a warm fuzzy feeling that it may just work out here.. Thanks guys..
Now, GPM.. where do I find these .130 wall sticks?? :D :D

Re: Roller lifters input
 

Trend makes them, CV products sells them. 800-448-1223, they work very well, ran them last year in my brothers motor. Turned the motor to 7600 with no push rod problems. 285lb seat 730 open spring pressure.

Re: Roller lifters input
 

You go with Brodix?

Re: Roller lifters input
 

I ran the Pro1 for one season in a N/A motor,lost guides and head gaskets. Gaskets could have been my fault. Switched to the Brodix, I've run them 5 seasons now. I haven't lost a guide, or a gasket. Some people love the Pro1s.

Re: Roller lifters input
 

My original plan was too use the AFR 357cnc's but they were all of of stock on them and I thought this project was gonna move along faster than it has been.I'll put some thought into it but for now I'll stick with the Pro1's.Looks like CMI will be taking 6-8 weeks to build the headers,thats not a good thing to hear but what can I do.I need them.

I need to learn more about what lifters right now though.Im guessing I will need a centered large bore lifter for my Dart Big M block?Not the offset ones.Will any .903-.937 lifter work in a Big M block,with the right machining?

Re: Roller lifters input
 

I've been runnung the stock .842, 3 seasons with no trouble. I waited 6 months for the 357s and gave up. You might want to look at the new BB3 xtra CNC.

Re: Roller lifters input
 

I agree,the Brodix might be a better head for my motor.if I dont get the results I want or if I crack and port,Ill be Brodix shopping soon.

I need to find a deal on Jesel lifter right now.Easier said then done though.

Re: Roller lifters input
 

Thanks GPM! sounds like a good solution to my situation..

Re: Roller lifters input
 

I would go with the Manton or Smith Bros. 2 piece tapered pushrods. This way you can tune each pushrod to the proper length.

Chris

Re: Roller lifters input
 

Good advice,thank you I'll keep this in mind when the time comes.

Re: Roller lifters input
 

I called CV and Manton today. I am going to try and use a straight 7/16" push rod, per Manton's suggestion. I am using guide plates, so the tappered ones are not an option as I was told. Next set of heads get the T&D's. For now trying to stay with what I have. If the 7/16" dont fit, then I will use the .135" wall from CV. They have a faster lead time than Manton. I picked up a 7/16" dowel today. When I get it mocked up, I can tell better which way may work. Hey, I could make them out of wood.. maybe that would work?/ :evilb:

Thanks for all the good info guys.. I believe I am headed in the right direction..

Dick

Re: Roller lifters input
 

Mr G, how much spring pressure are you running?