I've used the Dominator in my HO's for 65 hours+ and after oil analysis, was still perfect for continued use.

Is there an update/change in oils on the top five (in order) oils? I am looking for a good oil for a blower motor. I was told to just stick with merc oil. Also, what would be a better practice...buying a cheaper (above recommended) oil and changing after about 15-20 hours or using a better/best oil and changing once a season? FYI, my season is about 25 hours. Thanks!

Anyone???

The AMSOIL Dominator 15w-50 is great for a blower application due to the additive package that is in the oil.

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/rd50.aspx

I would stick with a 50weight oil of some sort, specifically a synthetic, because they can battle the potential fuel dilution you may incur due to the blower.

Lucas has a full line of high performance marine oils as well and there price is very competitive. http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...id=38&catid=24

Seems as tho dilution is the big problem with blowers so frequent changes is the key. 15-20 hour intervals from what i have read. You could probably stretch a bit to your 25hr seasons and just change once per season. Keep track tho and dont go too far over.

Any updates on this topic? Great thread on a topic we all have a vested interest in...

So, thought I should dig this old thread up. Ordered WIX racing filters, now I need to decide on an oil. My new motors are 548 CI blown motors so fuel delusion will be a factor. I know there are a lot of good oils out there, what is currently the best bang for the buck?

Still going with Wix racing filter and VR1. $5-6 a qt works for me.

With fuel dilution a possible issue, a 20w50 for sure and make sure your oil temp is over 180 to wick off any of the fuel.

Ken

http://www.drivenracingoilsales.com/...nce-motor-oil/

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/media.../0/2/02606.jpg

I went with Brad Penn 20-50.

Yours is the second recommendation I have had for Driven, maybe next oil change.

At least Driven isn't GREEN...

I used Brad Penn for my initial fill / Dyno run and now switched to Driven.. we'll see how it fares.. Be in the water for the first time this weekend.. :)

The easiest place for me to tap an oil temp gauge is off the outgoing port of the filter head. Is this still an adequate place to tap in to or have things chilled by then?

$11 a quart. Yikes.

$5.45 a quart: http://amzn.com/B00DJ4FIPQ
Sometimes Oreilly's and Advanced has it cheaper.

Still waiting for someone to prove or even think lubrication issues using this.

Valvoline VR-1 racing motor oils are recommended for engines burring gasoline and full or partial alcohol fuels in track and street service
Use in any car, light truck, van or SUV where API SN is recommended
ZDDP additive provides tough anti-wear protection
Enhanced with friction modifier to improve horsepower
Formulated with enhanced anti-foam system

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41jDJWteQML.jpg

That is still one fantastic conventional oil. Always does real well in tests. One of my go-to choices.

.
I'm hoping to be able to extend my oil change intervals by changing the filter regularly
then sample / change the oil only as needed... :)

I Have switched every thing I own over to Rotella T 15-40. I own a excavation company and all the equipment we used Rotella all the time. I noticed one day I was cleaning the funnels I used with brake clean (the good red CRC) and it wouldn't rinse the oil out with out wiping it in between spraying the brake clean. Later that day I was doing the oil change on my car and went to clean the funnel with Mobil 1. No wiping needed. Brake clean washed it clean in 1 spray. Since that day Rotella T in everything, Boat, equipment, car truck and even the Race Bikes and lawn Mower

Rotella is a Great idea. The liberal bureaucracy has not gotten to diesel oils yet and screwed them up..

I have been using it in a Harley road glide 103. They are mechanically loud motor. It much quieter. Also run it in the trans and primary. Clutch feels better and shifts awesome. No more big clunk

I like the green, it is a nice indicator if there is a leak...seeing that power steering, trim, and tabs have same colored fluid.

Yes, they have. Rotella was one of the last hold outs to change. But they got forced to. It is still a real good oil, but it is not what it used to be. Same thing with Delo.

You guys put entirely to much time and energy into what oil to use and who's is best. I've never had an engine failure do to oil. The most important thing about oil is you change it. The richer the motor is the more often it needs changed. If you don't have a motor that is set in kill mode and dumping fuel into it to make it live you can make it a season without an oil change. 100 times more important than what brand oil is going in the motor is what oil filter is going to be used. If you collapse a filter your done. And due to the design of some filters they just don't flow any oil and become a huge restriction in the system which usually leads to a collapsed filter, empty wallet and a wife that tells you to get rid of the dumb thing.

Hint: $2/qt 20/50 oil works just as well as $10/qt 20/50 oil in motors that aren't being fuel diluted to stay alive.

Any thoughts on this particular filter? I usually use Wix but moved up to the HP6 size and this is what I found most easily available. I'm mostly concerned with the media being able to handle the typical moisture found in boats. Also using Brad Penn 10/40 in the ZZ502 motor.
http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/t...5555851065.png

Sorry for the slow response... that is where I put mine. I wont loose that much heat from the pan.

Ken

Don't kid yourself, the zinc levels in Rotella, like the rest of our major brands of oils has dropped.

Ken

Picked up a (2) 6-packs for $65 recently, good stuff.

I think from glancing at these threads periodically that Mobile V Twin has remained a top choice. Is this still the case?

Yes, Mobil V-Twin is still a decent oil, but nothing like it was 5 years ago.

Ken

Me neither.. But the way I see it... $11 a quart for the oil I'm using is CHEAP compared to the 4 years of buying / selling & doing side work to come up with the $15,000 I spent to build my engine.... :)

Upon what objective data do you stake that claim, sir?

Mobil 1™ VTwin (from their product data sheet updated Feb 2016);
Viscosity 20W‐50
Nominal Phosphorus Level, PPM 1600
Nominal Zinc Level, PPM 1750

V-Twin used to be- zinc 1823 P 1683

I use the following recipe:

1 quart Slick 50
1 bottle ZMax
1 bottle Lucas Oil Treatment
1 bottle STP Oil Treatment
1 can Motor Honey
top off remaining capacity with 10W40 Blue Velvet.

:party-smiley-004:

Thank you,

Ken

I think that was actually measured by a sample, not a stated amount. Be interesting to see a current sample.