Just for the hell of I tried Amazon.com. The adds still there say $13.99 list discounted to $11.89/qt. I missed the boat.

I don't even see the Series 2000 on the Amsoil website anymore unless you are talking about the RD50 dominator oil.

Yes it is gone but I am interested how the Amsoil 20w50 Motorcycle oil compares to it. Nobody has posted analysis data on the new Amsoil RD50 Dominator oil that replaced the Series 2000.

I can't find the tech data at this point for the series 2000. I think the closest thing they have now is the RD50 (Dominator 20/50 racing oil)

Mobil1 V Twin in any Missouri Walmarts?
 

All the Walmarts I have tried in Missouri do not carry the Mobil 1 V Twin.

Are there any Walmarts in Missouri that carry the Mobil1 V Twin oil?

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/rd50.aspx
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mcv.aspx

Here's the best I can answer this question comparing the RD50 by Amsoil to the MCV:

Kinematic Viscosity on the MCV is thicker which means the thickness of an oil between the pison/rings and cylinder wall basically.

Viscosity Index in the MCV is lower. Viscosity Index measures how much the oil is going to change viscosity due to temperature. The higher the number of the Viscosity Index, the less it's going to change.

Noack Volatility is higher on the RD50. Basically this means that the lower number is better because the higher the number means it's going to evaporate more and not last as long.

Basically my understanding of the RD50 is it's for racing. It's meant to be changed alot more then a "standard" oil; however, in that short time that the RD50 is in the engine the RD50 could do a better job of lubricating. If it was me I would run the MCV over the RD50 because I wouldn't want to change the oil after every trip to Havasu.

For general use I like the Amsoil MCV as it has excellent anti-corrosion additives as does V-Twin. MCV 20W50- = M-1 V-Twin from all the tests I have seen.

[QUOTE=Rage;2920080]Call you post the oil analysis on these two oils?

IQUOTE]


Rage, I have the reports you are asking for but I cannont post them, membership restrictions.
Get a e-mail address up here and I will send them to you.

Ken

Well that is good news.

You noted before that the M1 V Twin hot viscosity had a greater margin than the Ansoil Series 2000 20W50 which was borderline for W50 rating. Does the Amsoil MCV 20W50 have the same hot viscosity margin as the M1 V Twin 20W50? I still experience high oil temperatures during extended WOT running and a higher hot viscosity margin is desireable to me to keep the oil pressure up during such times.

Can you share any of the Amsoil MCV oil analysis reports or indicate where they might be obtained/viewed?

[QUOTE=minxguy;2921079]Well thanks Ken! I will PM my Email address to you.

I did not know there was such a restriction. I admit that I am lazy about reading fine print. I think I posted some a while back. I will avoid doing in the future.

Rage,
A few things that are going to pertain specifically to you Is the 4 ball wear test, Kinematic Viscosity at 100*C, and the Viscosity Index. The Kinematic Viscosity at 212*F is going to give you a good idea as to the thickness between the pison/rings and cylinder walls. Basically on this test, the higher the number the better. The Amsoil MCV is 20.56, the Amsoil RD50 is 17.5, and the Mobil 1 V-Twin is 21.04. The Viscosity Index is going to help you make a good determination of how well the oil is going to maintain viscosity at high temperatures. The Amsoil MCV is 156, the Amsoil RD50 is 162, and the Mobil 1 V-Twin is 145. The other thing that I would note is the 4 Ball wear test. The 4 ball wear test is a good indication of how well the oil is going to protect your internal parts from wear. The Amsoil MCV is .373, the RD50 is .47, and the Mobil 1 V-Twin is .395. Basically the Mobil 1 is a very solid oil, but in your case since it’s harder for you to find, you might want to consider switching to the MCV as that’s a solid performer. Depending on how much reading you want to do, here are some fun facts for you.
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/G-2156.pdf

Hey minxguy, Did you get my PM?

Bill

[QUOTE=minxguy;2921079]

Lots of good info here. I am running merc 25w-40 now. Will i see more or less oil pressure with m-1 15w-50 gold cap hot and cold?? Also have the option of runing chevron delo 400 straight 40wt. oil. what would be your choice???
02 496ho's 180 hours

Thanks

You're comparing apples to grapes. The Mobil 1 is a full synthetic and the dello is a dino oil. I would run Mobil over the dello oil. Oil pressure shouldn't change much, it might go up a little bit with the thicker stuff then your engine was designed for. My 500 EFI wants to run the 25/40, which is why I run this, which is still a 40 wt.
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/wcf.aspx

In theory, you should see higher oil pressure cold with the 25w40 and higher pressure numbers with the 15w50 hot.


Ken

-Synthetics do flow better when cold vs conventionals.

-Now a 40wt being less viscous than a 50wt will run cooler as a heavier oil actually causes more friction.

-A rule of thumb is to use the lowest viscosity possible.

-Having said that....these engines are stressed to the max...a synthetic 25W-50 or 15w-50 ought be fine.

Amsoil's 15W-40 Marine is great too!

I should explain why i compared these oils. I know one is syn. and one is not. The reason i asked about these was more for the viscosity. I can get through work (for free-part of my benefits package) m-1 15w-50 gold cap, delo 15w-40 or delo straight 40w hd . my main question is what weight would you run in stock 496ho's. the only reason i am not using merc 25w-40 is because these oils are not costing me anything and i think merc oil is $23.00 a gallon now and we can not buy it through our supplier at work. I am also running wix 51060 filters with no issues so far. also what amsoil drive oil do you recommend, the 75w-90 marine gear lube or the servere duty oil. My boating climate is 50 degrees or warmer(northern cheaspeake bay)

thanks again, jeff

If you can get the Mobil 1 15w-50 for free, then get it. It is hands down the best of the three. Now for the gear lube, get the AMSOIL 75/80w-90 Marine Gear Lube.

I would run the Mobil 1 also. I do run the 75-90 Marine gear lube with my 500EFI.

[QUOTE=minxguy;2921079]Ken,

Did you get my PM to you with my Email address?

Is there a problem with sending the two noted oil analysis?

I am definately still interested.

Bill

Bill, I sent them to you. I will try again.

Ken

An Amsoil rep told me to use Amsoil Severe Gear 75-90 in Bravo Outdrives. Better additive package....it's what some racing teams use.

Ken,

My appologies. I discovered that your mail was being routed to my spam folder. I corrected this problem. Please resend.

Thanks,

Bill

How does this gear lube compare to the Redline Shock Proof gear lube?

Bill/Ken,
I understand you don't want post the analysis. Can you comment on the Merc oil vs others by stack ranking your top 5 oil preferences for a HP marine application?
Ben

I'll let Ken or other respond. I am just a layman boat owner trying to learn.

I called Amsoil and spoke to one of the people in the technical department and they said the opposite. They said they designed that fluid with the cone clutch found in the bravo's in mind. I could see possibly running the severe gear if you are making power above what a 525 would produce. One thing I woud be concerned about if I was running a 525 and lower in regards to using the sever gear is burning out the cone clutch. I am also a boating lover trying to learn, and trying to sell a little Amsoil while doing it.

So Amsoil designed the severe gear lube to work best in the bravo drive with what hp? What gear lube does Amsoil recommend for bravo drives that are below that hp? What could cause the cone clutch in the bravo drive to burn up if the Amsoil severe gear lube was used with hp below that recommended?

This is my understanding:
The severe gear product was designed for the differentials in our trucks, not with the marine drives in mind.

I'm honestly not sure what it is in the fluids that would cause or keep the cone clutch from burning up. I've heard from a "Premeir Certified Merc Mechanic" that he has seen cone clutches wear out pre-maturley from synthetics.

The Marine gear lube was designed for all B1 drive's, (X, XZ, XR, etc...) I had somebody on here ask me about what fluid to use in the SSM drives and the Amsoil tech also said the 75-90. I BELIEVE if you pull a owners manual on a XR drive, it will tell you to run a 75/90 GL-5 fluid (I may be wrong). There are also people on here that say that Teague "recommends" the severe gear 75/110. Teague is obviously a very smart guy and has a much better understanding of all of this stuff then we ever will.

I am not a chemist and at this point don't have all the facts. I am like many of you on here that are enthusiasts that are trying to learn more about the fluids.

Hybrid synthetics/Dino oil may help the longevity of the cone clutches but full synthetics may protect the gears better. I would rather rebuild a cone clutch that have gears implode. :party-smiley-004:

I just had a Shelby rear end customized by a shop that specializes in drag race 9 inch rear ends and his warranty is voided if you don't use Torco GL5 mineral oil. :eek:
.

Or do both and use the Marine Gear Lube which is a full synthetic and will protect your gears and your cone clutch.

At a race the Amsoil guy told be Severe Gear in the drive...can't win sometimes..:party-smiley-004:


. would personally use Severe Gear in my Bravo. Either are good...what is Teague using these days? :)

I don't know the asnwer to what Teague uses. The Amsoil tech guys says he uses the Marine Gear Lube and the "People who have talked to Teague" says Severe gear. They are both good products.

Redline Shock Proof gear lube
 

What are the pros and cons of Redline Shock Proof gear lube in a Bravo drive?

I use Royal Purple gear lube. How does it compare to the others mentioned? About time to place an order again.

it's messy and stains, takes about 12 hours to drain and seemed to cost me about 100rpm, on the other hand it's an awesome gear lube.:lolhit:

I now prefer the M1 75/140, readily available and no apparent artificial coloring.

http://www.amsoil.com/products/gearl...hitePaper.aspx

Here's a little fun reading for you.

I do not mind putting up with the messy nature (definately messy) and slow drain rate (I use a vacuum pump system) as long as it provides the best protection and does not cause performance problems elsewhere as in the clutch cone issue implied herein regarding other syn lubes.

Has anyone got any information or test results back on Mercury's new full 20-40 synthetic oil? I seen some on the shelf the other day at a Merc, service center. The only thing that concerned me about it, was the claims I read on the quart of oil. It said something to the effect of being formulated to protect the new catalyst systems ( emission) of there new engines. Isn't that the reason the new automotive engine oils don't protect as well because there lacking anti wear additives ( zinc) etc. because of damaging emission controls?

Got me wondering as well.