I see what ya mean.

One thing to consider, the stern jack changes the angle at which the drive trims up. With a stock setup the angle of the drive when trimmed is more and is deeper in the water and I would think could carry the bow better.

With the sternjack, the trim angle is less. It puts the drive at a more level and higher place when trimmed but I don't think it will be able to carry the bow.

I'm not an expert on the sternjack but it would be nice to be able to try something before spending the dough!

Have you tried different props?

Use any position for short term test. When you pick your final postion, make sure the drive shaft angle doesn't exceed 2 degrees. It you end up changing the engine height, I would set thr drive shaft angle at .5 degrees.

Actually the angle shouldn't change! At the same angle the prop will be higher. But the water angle 10" back is higher too! I see it like putting a biger bar on the transom, it should give the boat more bow lift. If I have to trim real high, then I'll reprop, and that tells me the boat should gain something.

If you trim both drives at the same agle, the one with the land & Sea box will be closer to the surface. That makes it harder to carry the bow of the boat.

With the Land & Sea you wont have to trim as much to get the boat to go faster because it raises the drive higher but the deeper the drive is in the water the more it effects the angle of attack when the boat is running.

Boats with a high X-Dimension tend to run flat. Deep drives tend to run with the bow a litle higher from what I've seen.

Maybe some of the riggers can confirm or deny??

I agree with what you say, My boat now has a rather reserved X dim. I know this because I need to trim out pretty far to reach top speeds. with the drive further away from the transom, the drive will provide more bow lift once I trim past nuteal angle. How much, I don't know.

I can't find any 288's with this box. But I have found a 32 with these boxes, and it has shown a huge improvment.

I will test this spring. Fingers crossed.

One thing I have found with the Stellings extension box is that they may have to be shimmed where the bearing carrier sits/mounts inside the box. The box already comes from the factory with pre-determined thickness shims where the bearing carrier sits---they're all one size. I have had some vibration since I bought the extension boxes, and have even broke the driveshafts on both engines and we found that the alignment was way off it's kinda funny because it wasn't too far off before----too long of a story to go into detail here. Anyway, we had to shim one bearing carrier within the box about .060" on both sides of one drive and we had to shim .015" on just one side of the other drive. Once shimmed, we checked it with the aligment tool and it spun freely then------no vibrations or problems since.

I use the stelling box on my 27' fountain. The box is slotted and has a jack plate on it so I can change settings infinatly in a 3" range. Too much angle is hard on the drive shaft. The boat works best all around with box set up so the prop shaft is about one inch below the bottom of the boat. I tested setting the shaft as high as 1.5 inches above the bottom with a IMCO shortie and a hering five blade prop. This combo would have worked if I had a steped bottom. (not enough bow lift but one hell of a rooster tail) When the boat comes on plane the drive is buried deeper from the 12" set back. When the bow drops as boat planes the prop will slip. At this drive height, without the box, the boat problaby would not get on plane. I lost mph in the cruise rpm but made it back at top end. The Idea is to get the lower out of the water to decrease drag and surface the prop.

Hey Sprague, Did Mike dyno that motor yet?

What's the recommended way of raising the
rear mounts ?

Would spacers between the bell housing
and inner transom plate, along with longer bolts
do the trick ???

Yes. I had some cut out of aluminum. Don't forget, the front mounts also need to go up.