the spring and plunger thingy is the bypass valve. Napa filters by Wix have been criticised for not having a gasket on the bypass valve seat. http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil...udy.html#n1515

Bypass.... anti drain back valves are a rubber flap that goes up against the ring of holes around the outside area where the filter screws on. Filters don't need a drain back valve if they are mounted with the threaded portion topside. The oil flows from the outside of the filter to the inside.

There is always a concern about getting all the contaminants out of a remote oil cooler. You can have them sonically blasted. I cleaned mine by soaking them in stoddard solvent, draining them, refilling them with a caustic solution then finally blasting them out with ultra hot water and air. They were the large convoluted pass type oil filter. I never had any problems with them after that. Trust me... I don't care what Bobtheoilguy says, those bypass valves are open a lot more than you would think.They spend more time open than they do closed. That is why Napa/wix didn't bother putting a gasket on the valve. The idiot that plumbed my port engine plumbed the remote oil filter backwards and the bypass valve was pushed backward. When the engine came off idle the oil pressure gauge would peg and yet the lifters would clatter from lack of oil. He insisted there wasn't a problem and when the motor scattered in a spectacular fashion after a few minutes , he ( the builder ) claimed it was MY fault. When I disassembled the engine and inspected the way the filter was plumbed, he told me it didn't make any difference how the filter was plumbed... Oh yeah? I won't bother to post the pictures here, but the crank looked like someone had taken a cutting torch to the bearing journals. All because the bypass wouldn't open. Now you draw your own conclusions. I've seen what happens when there isn't a filter bypass. If you choose to close yours off.... Good luck.

Ok I called Wix they said the 1222R bypass vale is a 18-22lbs that ,61 micron and flows 28-30GPM.Itwill acutually drain back,.being mine is mounted upside down.

Also asked about the 1060R it has just the anti drian back and do NOT have the bypass ,also has the 61 micron,

They discontuned the 1061R that had the bypass valve.

With the HP6 and 1222R is the only fitler in the size.no other choises

So the only reason I should be consearned with the oil cooler that I have been running for 5 years is IF I puke and contaimaniated the oil cooler???????

Oilcooler
The last 3 winters I just washed them out with gas then break cleaner ,blow them out with air let drip dry if anything left in it.

Any better sugestions?????

I found that the biggest drop in my oil temperature occured when I added a #8 dump just past the oil cooler, so now i have a lot of water flow thru the cooler. Before I couldn't achieve a balance between the oil cooler water flow and water flow to the motor. I used a 30mm water temp hose adapter from Greddy and then drilled to pipe thread pad for a bigger pipe to AN fitting. I did the same thing on the other side of the motor for the intercooler.

That is what I would do with the coolers, Rob. They don't really get fugged up unless you have a serious engine issue like a melt-down. About oil filter flow: the more oil they flow per minute the less they filter, given the filter is the same size. HP-6 filters have a built in bypass. If the filter doesn't have a bypass then the system needs to have one somewhere.

so far so good this season at 9lbs.fixing to tear down and look

I love how you Southerners are "fixin" to do something. Makes me believe you guys are in a constant state of repair...

Allways .