I like the idea. What is the hp rating on a #5?
Also is it true that the #4,#5,#6 are considered surface drives?

I'm not entirely sure what the rating is but I've seen people run 1000 - 1200 hp with them.

#4's are discontinued, the 3,4,5 were a measurement of the depth to the drive, 3 being the deepest and 5 being the highest. Back in the day some of the older triple engine raceboats had a #3 in the center engine and #5's on the outside engines. I think Kid Apache was set up this way???

They are all surface drives, hence the cleaver style surface props. Another thing I would consider is the cost of props for a #5 vs. a Konrad/BMax, it's a huge difference and they're a lot less available.

I would say a Konrad would be like a #3 but with a slightly higher horsepower rating. I was told 750 on a #3 to have a reliable package. I'm running 800's with Konrads. No problems to date. Just working on props.

There is a very nice pair of slightly used Imco 4X4's donw in FL by Larry Goldman. Decent price too.

I saw those,thanks.
I'm ready for more pics kirk

the length of the boat as awell as a weight is very important to your decission. sixes weigh more and affect the c.g more as well. 5's are readily available as mentioned above, and wil as astated survive severe punishment.

b max is not a choice from a strength perspective, being if you dont match their drive with their gimbal, you now created a second week lynk. as is any bravo style/ design drive system ,again no need to elaborate.

Bo do you see the Merc HP [XR] gimble as a week link in a high Horsepower stand point??

The Bmax ,Max, Imco[bravo style] bolt up just like a stock Bravo. I wouldnt think the differant kind[namebrand] of drive wouldnt put more stress on a gimble.

Rob

a stronger bravo style drive on bravo gimbal or an i.t.s gimbal is not good from a mate standpoint, nor for a person with a heavy throttle hand. especially adding say a b-max. your increasing the load of the mechanical leverage agianst the original design,by increasing the weight of the drive itself. thus increasing the failure rate in critical areas ,like the pivot pins, and the helmut. i have seen this many times , and more so in conjunction with the use of the b-max. all your doing is moving the weak link from one area to another.

as far as the merc gimbal beeing the week link, it would depend on the boat length and weight. again mechaincal levrage comes into play as well as the c.g.

lastly and most importantly when a product is used in a fashion above and beyond its original design failure isnt possible it;s eminant.

although gary and i have routinely pushed his gladiator over the 100 mark with out any failure in the engine, gimbal, or drive, i would say this attests to frquent checks of all moving parts, good design,and proper opperation in that relm.
remember hevy hands yeild heavy hits especially when punching a WET PAPER BAG.

p.s strip i love the rooster skit l.m.a.o

The boat in question is a 28 Pantera single engine.
Does anyone think this is to stern heavy with a #6 ? I wouldn't think it would be as bad as twins w/ bravo's on the c.g.
I assume the #5 is a lighter assmy.
I certinly don't want to change the handling too much. I does seem to be balanced very well.