Scarab Billy

I know I am VERY interested in these results as well. Mobil 1 will blacken @280 degrees?

Racerngr1

I disagree with this statement. How long is water going to survive anywhere at 180*? It's going to be heated and evaporate, the oil doesn't need to get to 212* for the water to boil out like you are implying it does.

I will try to do a UOA (used oil analysis) on my boat this weekend which is running the 10/40 and to show that there is no water in my oil.

Hydrocruiser

Why a synthetic oil:

- There are many molecular compounds present in crude oil and many of those compounds are still present in the refined product, detracting from the physical properties of that product. For instance, paraffinnic waxes are present in crude-based oil, but contribute nothing to the lubricative properties of the oil. Also, the size of the hydrocarbon molecules themselves are non-uniform in crude-based oils. Synthetic oil contains none of these contaminants and the hydrocarbon molecules are very uniform, giving the synthetic oil base better mechanical properties at extreme high and low temperature.

- Additives knows as Viscosity Improvers are added to combat this. Basically viscosity improvers are coiled molecules that shorten when cold, and lenthen when hot. The short, cold molecules interfere with the hydrocarbons lining themselves up, and the longer hot molecules help things stick together better (at the molecular level) and keep things from getting too 'loose'. Unfortunately, viscosity improvers break down when exposed to heat and mechanical shearing, so oils that use a lot of viscosity improvers don't last very long. This is where synthetics have an advantage. The branched-chain structure of synthetic oils naturally resist changes in viscosity with temperature. It's just the way they're made. Therefore, true synthetic oils often don't need any viscosity improvers at all!

-Shear stability is an expression of how well the oil stands up to mechanical shear loads. In an internal combustion engine, oil is subjected to extreme shear loads as parts slide past each other. Oils with poor shear stability will 'shear out' and lose viscosity. Synthetic oils have far superior shear stability compared to conventional oils.


-Is it safe to switch to synthetic oil?
Yes, you can switch your engine to synthetic oil at any time. Synthetic oil and conventional oil will mix without issues, so you don’t have to worry about a little bit of old oil in the engine mixing with the synthetic and causing problems. Conventional oils can leave a lot of deposits and sometimes even sludge inside an engine. Synthetic oil will gradually dissolve most of these deposits. An engine with severe sludge problems may need more specialized attention, such as engine flush treatments or even a rebuild. Normal engines that have had regular maintenance will have no issues, though.

minxguy

All oils are suppose to get black. It is an indication that they are doing their job. The "black" comes from contamination and the dispersant package in the oil is working. It is holding the "dirt" in suspension so it can be carried to the filter for removal or if the particles are too small, they dispersed throughout the oil to be removed when you drain your oil.

If the dispersant package wasn't working, the oil would stay clean and all the contamination would "plate out" on the horizontal surfaces, ie bottom of the pan, top of the heads.

If you oil is not getting black, change your brand of oil, it is not doing it's job.

Ken

minxguy

Oil test results for Mercury 25w40 are in.

I guess do to my "membership" I can't post attachments.

Somebody drop an e-mail addy on this thread and I will send them the test results to post.

Not bad stuff. Kurt, the dealer didn't lie to you

Ken

TC

Did the results ever get posted?

07DominatorSS

All I know, after seeing the results is that my analysis on my AMSOIL 20w-50 Racing Oil with 53 hours on it, was just as clean and just as strong as the Merc out of the bottle.

Biggus

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for sending the Merc oil out Ken. When you get a chance, send it to my email address, [email protected]

I'll post the results.

Kurt

stevewy

Interesting thread. I run a 502 with a procharger.

I was told to use Brad Penn - Penn Grade 1 - SAE 20w 50 partial synthetic racing oil. "The Green Oil"

After running 3500 RPM for 15 minutes my oil temp is around 240. I may go to 270/280 after an extended run.

Does that sound normal?

cloudmaster_321

I just had a 502 N/A built by Goodwin Competition, he is having me run the Brad Penn as well. I do not have much experience with it though. I was running Mobil 15W-50 before the rebuild. Todd Goodwin didn't think much of the Mobil products to my surprise.