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ok I want to build a gm big block

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Old 01-25-2011 | 07:10 PM
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shipping for "2" short blocks was 375 to the border . You will find it a LOT cheaper to buy complete short block than buy all the peaces have the machine work done right and then assemble them. I know that for a fact . But each to their own. good luck
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Old 01-25-2011 | 10:18 PM
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Jeff.
I just took a look at there site. Good prices there. I will call for a shipping quote. There kits are cheap too. Gunna check this out further.
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Old 01-25-2011 | 10:36 PM
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4 bolt gen IV. Prefer it to be cut .040 or under. That gives me 20 to work with and I don't like blocks cut more then 60 over.
If you want roller then find a Gen VI block that is already set up for it. If not you will spend a ton of money you don't need to.
The Gen V is the middle child. Better then the 4 in some ways but not as good as the 6. IMHO, not doing roller, with a few upgrades the Gen 5 is the motor to build as long as you cover the minor issues that GM missed.
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Old 01-25-2011 | 11:29 PM
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and you didn't buy? If the number where right you could have resold and financed a portion of your build on the profit.

Originally Posted by toolsinbox
shipping is too huge to here in Canada. I am keeping my eyes open for a 502 block that would be ideal for me. Anything around here is set up for cars thats why I am looking for just a block first. I find people are so full of BS when advertising on line like on craig list and other for sale sites so you cant depend on the internals. I went to look at one on the weekend as advertised as a 454 was in fact a 427 rare corvette block. with the fuel injection and all. I told the guy he was nuts to sell for $500.00. I am still wondering how he made out.

I am serious about building a bullet proof engine that will be exactly what I want.

Question: when, if at all, does the added weight of H billet rods, make it a waste. How much power do you have to be making to use them? Or does it matter? Use them if you can afford them? I intend on getting the crank and rods together from the same place.
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Old 01-26-2011 | 02:38 PM
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How about a nice 427 Tall Deck truck block...thick cylinder walls!

Realistically, by the time you buy a block, have it all machined, new crank, rods, pistons, etc, you might as well buy a complete shortblock that is NEW. Bolt on your choice of heads, cam, etc.

If you dont want a blower, and want 454CI, 500HP is gonna be about max. stock GM Forged stuff is plenty for that. If starting from scratch, it really doesnt cost all that much more to go bigger CI, 502, 540, etc.
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Old 01-26-2011 | 02:56 PM
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Here you go. Complete drop in. Even has full exhaust, which would work better than those kodiak manifolds.

Buy that, drop it in, keep stock motor for a backup or sell complete.

you wont be able to piece together something for what you can buy this one for. The exhaust alone is worth 1000 bucks used. A decent hyd roller cam kit is around 1000 bucks, cam lifters, etc. Fresh valve jobs, machine work, intake, carb, etc

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...ck-market.html
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Old 01-26-2011 | 04:45 PM
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Toolsinbox- even with the expense of shipping you might want to look at complete package like the hp465/502 that is in the swapshop complete with exhaust. All those parts add up fast....
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Old 01-26-2011 | 04:49 PM
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"I find people are so full of BS when advertising on line like on craig list and other for sale sites so you cant depend on the internals. I went to look at one on the weekend as advertised as a 454 was in fact a 427 rare corvette block. with the fuel injection and all. I told the guy he was nuts to sell for $500.00. I am still wondering how he made out."

Might be a good thing you passed on that deal- does anyone remember a fuel injected 427 being offered? Might have been something rare or might have been a 500 paper weight.
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Old 01-26-2011 | 05:43 PM
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Getting the whole thing will take away from my two sons and I building engine. I kinda think that will out weigh the extra cost.
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Old 02-07-2011 | 09:43 PM
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ok a guy has a compleat 454 except carb and alternator; here is what he said when I asked him for the casting details. It is from a 1981 suberban. Anyone have any insite on what I may be looking at?
This is his e-mail

I couldn't quite make out the block casting number but what I could see was - 1 4 _ _ 5 4 4 5 the third number looks like an 8 or a zero, the fourth one is a blob that I can't make out. I spent ten minutes wire brushing it, thats the best I can do. the other numbers on the bell housing are- CON V2 and GM 10 T
hope that helps.
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