pslonaker

iTrader: (1)

am I suppose to care??

Kidnova

I've been running my 557 ci with a mechanical CV Products 2630. Been working just fine.

Cobra100+

iTrader: (3)

Thanks everyone, KID is the CV pump run off the seapump?

302Sport

I don't think so. You're pretty limited with the seapump setup cause its specific to the application and not many aftermarket upgrades for it. I think teague or hardin makes one though. I would do that upgrade and just for insurance also run an electric fuel pump on a toggle switch, so you would have both. I have seen a lot of motors setup this way.

larose481

Get away from the sea pump mount as over time you are asking for failure as gas is known for leaking and trashing pump bearings and leaving you stranded. Trust me. Go with a Weldon pump # 1100-A. Electric pump that is one of the only marine rated pumps that actually draw fuel and don't need to be gravity fed. Call Weldon and get specs but thought it's good for 1100 horse. This pump has a straight vertical draw of around 20ft. I am running it and have no issues and they are great to deal with. Link this with a FST Flomax 300m filter/separator by Ramco Performance and a good regulator and have a bulletproof set-up.

Young Performance

Here is the typical setup that I use in your situation. I use both a mechanical and an electric. Either one can run the engine by itself. You have redundancy. When an electric pump fails, it usually gives no warning. On the other hand, the mechanicals will usually gradually get weaker with time. They can get weak enough to not be able to supply enough fuel and cause some big problems. Also, by running both, you don't have 2 huge, expensive pumps but 2 smaller cheaper pumps. You have the benefits of an electric pump to prime an empty system (new system, drained the bowls to change jets, etc) and the durability of an mechanical pump.
Since you don't have a provision on the block, you are limited to what you can use on the seapump. Hardin (KE) has a very nice pump section that mounts to your existing upper pump housing.
http://www.cpperformance.com/p-12460...6-engines.aspx

As for an electric, you have a few choices. In the past I would run a red Holley pump. I would cut about one wrap off of the internal bypass spring to brings it's pressure down to about 5 psi, from the stock 7 psi. Lately, I have been using an Aeromotive "street rod" pump. However, that pump does need a regulator. It is a VERY durable pump. You will have to regulate the fuel just out of the pump if you use the Aeromotive since it makes about 14 psi and the mechanicall only makes about 8 psi. If you use the Holley red, you will not need a regualtor at all.

I make a SS manifold that attaches to the oulet of the mechanical pump. It has 3 fittings on it, plus a 1/8"port for a sending unit. The one on the bottom has the fuel line coming from the electric pump. The 2 on the top go to the carb....one to each bowl.
I use a fuel filter head with 2 outlets. Line size depends on the power. In your case, I would run from the tank to the filter with a #10. Come out of the filter with a #8 to each of the pumps. Then a #6 to each bowl of the carb. from the SS manifold.
As mentioned, be sure the pickup in the tank is sufficient. Don't just look at it and assume. Take it out and really look at it. You should have a 1/2" id pickup tube. I make my own SS pickup since I have never seen one for sale anywhere.
Here are a few pics. The first one is the SS manifold. The others are my SS pickup vs a production style plastic pickup found in a ton of boats.
Let me know if I can help you out. Good luck
Eddie

Kidnova

Yes it does run off the sea pump. Pricey, but a good pump.
btw... I believe CV says the pump puts out 10 psi at idle so I run a regulator before the fuel gets to my Dom 1050.
Some (who know allot more than I do I'm sure) have suggested combining an elec with a mechanical. I went with the CV to keep things clean and simple.... less stuff to fail the better. I bought mine 4-5 years ago so if you consider the CV I'd call the manufacturer just to make sure the 2630 is the same as it was 4-5 years ago...manufacturers sometimes change things over time.

HaxbySpeed

Kidnova, those CV pumps are great. We use them on endurance race engines without any issues. We sometimes use a redundant system like Eddie described but instead of providing double the fuel the engine needs and heating it up or bypassing it back to the tank we trigger the electric pump off a pressure switch so it comes on anytime the pressure drops below 6psi and it triggers a light on the dash so you know it's happening. It's a simple setup and we also use a couple high flow one way check valves to keep everything safe. Teague sells a ton of different style fuel manifolds dirt cheap. Eddie that fitting looks like the right size but the ID of that stainless tube is quite a bit smaller then the stock plastic one? I also like the KE fuel pump body you mentioned, it's a really nice piece and an easy upgrade.

Young Performance

It is deceiving in the pics. The SS tubing has a 1/2" id and .039 wall thickness. The plastic tube has less than 3/8" id. The wall is pretty thick to make it strong, I guess. If you would see them from the bottom you would see that there is a considerable difference in id, with the SS being quite a bit larger.
I understand your point about running twice the needed pump, but it's not that bad. Either pump on it's on will run the engine enough to get home. However, they aren't large enough to support it at WOT. That's why I use 2 of them. You get the benefits of both without way over pumping it since they are both small pumps.
I just like the redundancy since I have seen pumps fail and leave a customer with a several hour idle back to the house.

Eddie

HaxbySpeed

10/4 on the redundancy. Most of the race boats that are still using MSD run at LEAST two boxes..