Wrenches are a flying!! Water in Oil! Help!!
04-10-2012 | 07:22 PM
#51
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From: chicago
Like Mike said, apply the sealer to the threads, and assemble everything and torque to spec before the sealer cures. I torque my heads in 3 steps, up to max torque spec.
04-10-2012 | 07:27 PM
#53
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From: Lincoln, CA
No good. ARP specifically recommends finger tight. By torquing them into the block, you can put uneven stress on the stud when the heads are torqued. This can lead to a cracked deck on your block, from what I been told.
Like Mike said, apply the sealer to the threads, and assemble everything and torque to spec before the sealer cures. I torque my heads in 3 steps, up to max torque spec.
Like Mike said, apply the sealer to the threads, and assemble everything and torque to spec before the sealer cures. I torque my heads in 3 steps, up to max torque spec.
04-10-2012 | 07:30 PM
#54
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From: chicago
Please dont take this the wrong way, but you might want to slow down a bit, and take your time. Do your homework, and assemble it properly from here on out. If you don't know for sure, dont put it together. Wait for someone who does that can steer you in the right direction, whether its here, or on the phone, or in a book.
04-10-2012 | 07:36 PM
#56
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From: Raystown Lake , Pa.
+1 These guys know their stuff !!! There is a lot more to this than just bolting parts together and the proper way is especially critical with marine engines . Number one rule , do not assume anything . You came to the right place for quality help .
04-10-2012 | 07:54 PM
#57
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From: Lincoln, CA
Please dont take this the wrong way, but you might want to slow down a bit, and take your time. Do your homework, and assemble it properly from here on out. If you don't know for sure, dont put it together. Wait for someone who does that can steer you in the right direction, whether its here, or on the phone, or in a book.
04-10-2012 | 07:55 PM
#58
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From: Lincoln, CA
04-11-2012 | 12:48 AM
#59
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From: Omaha/LOTO
The head studs have got to be it..a few were like finger tight and the one's that go into the water jackets that go thru the dowel..looked like coffee residue all over them..I was thinking of having the heads pressure tested and surfaced..but the shop thinks I would be wasting money..and that money is my booze money for Havasu. (Big Booze Budget, Ha!!). There telling me my heads and block are pretty much bullet proof and should be the last thing to look at.
So, I just finished pulling ALL the studs, sealed them and tightened the studs into the block..Gonna let it sit over night and put the heads back on in the morning..need some ARP lube.
So, I just finished pulling ALL the studs, sealed them and tightened the studs into the block..Gonna let it sit over night and put the heads back on in the morning..need some ARP lube.
04-11-2012 | 11:15 AM
#60
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From: Portdeposit MD
Do know what the water pressure is inside the chiller @ speed ? I run a pressure gauge on mine with a relief valve . I try to limit pressure @ 12 psi but often see 20 -25 lbs @ speed . The last 1000 rpm as speed increases ... pressure increases from 12 psi to 20-25 psi . I use the drive lwp to feed the intercooler . Were talking ram pressure here ... no pump ... just a thought !
Last edited by 737jetmech; 04-11-2012 at 11:20 AM.
