POR 15 is tough as hell but don't get it in the sun light, no UV protection..... had two 57 chevy frames one painted with straight urethane PPG black, the other with POR 15 after 6 months outside in the weather, the urethane black looked like it was just painted, the POR15 black was now a drab dull gray, and then we went to strip it to paint it with urethane and that was such a pain in the ass, ended up sand blasting it off...

I've shot both of these below.

IMO if you are going to use an epoxy primer I would use Sikkens. Though, I would top coat in the recommended time since this stuff is tough as nails. Seriously. Due to frame mods I had to let the primer completely setup. Prepping the surface (scuffing) was VERY difficult. Not cheap stuff either. Stone chips hasn't even come close to penetrating the primer on this Cobra since 2001.

I like Imron for single stage but still prone to fuel lifting paint issues. Especially in the first year without baking. I have some lifting around the vent on this boat painted in 2006. Still very shiny though.

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I tend to agree. The guy who painted my entire dually flat black, came up with this color on his third mix; and it was vibrantly superior than anything the HOK book we searched through first. Target was to match her custom pink guitar.
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We started here:
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Passed here:
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And ended here: (the pearl doesn't show in the crappy phone pic)
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The VW was my GF's reward for beating breast cancer.

That's great..... Awesome to hear she beat it!!! I watched my mother beat it when I was 16..... It changes the way you look at life!

The black POR is UV sensitive but they do make a top coat that is not.

http://www.por15.com/FLEXCOTE_p_39.html

If its as tough as POR might be worth consideration.

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Ended up using PPG epoxy primer, and PPG Omni line paint. Bought some used valve covers that were polished, but decided to paint them too. Should change the look of the engines a little bit when its all together.

Looks good the omni line is junk so it will be good to see how it holds up. Imron is the way to go(#1) , then concept, ( #2 Choice) If you used expoxy primer I hope it was the dp 40 dp 90 line.. It sticks to alumuminum real well. Aluminum emits oils so regular paint comes of without epoxy or even etching ptimer. Pm next time. Also por 15 is a primer used to cover stuff up. It may look good but it needs to be topcoated for exterior

The lifting is not from the Imron. Lifting comes from the fuel getting under the paint. Like if you taped the fuel breather off. The paint edge could be exposed and get peneterated. Or it was not sanded. ( kinda hard to sand it good if the piece was taped around and not removed.) All Kenworth Semi Tractors have Imron on them. So I don't think a little fuel would eat the paint off. Also . In the sun or at engine temp it takes less than a month to fully cure.. Baking only speeds up the process. Sorry to say it like it is. I painted for the Military ( Parts for F16's, B1's, Submarines etc, even the guidence part of the bombs dropped on Momar Kadoffie's ( sp?) house !! ) and some paints like vinyl paints have to be baked, but not true with catalized paints.- Have a good day.Chad

I believe the epoxy primer was the DP48LF . As far as the Omni line, I used it a long time ago on a fairing we painted. It held up really well on that. My buddy that painted these uses it on all the industrial rental forklifts he paints. They get beat pretty hard. He was familiar with it and uses it almost daily, so figured go with what he's used to. Hopefully it holds up

Single stage concept with clear.. ( only if you can not get Imron) and the 48 should work but the 40 is better. It will be fine. I am just really really picky because I only worked on high end stuff in my collision restoration repair carreer.Even DBC. Omni is just the cheapy version. Now can you tell me If I can use the 19170540 instead of the 19170540 with my pan crank etc. I know I need to change my timing cover to a 10 bolt right? Or should I just use a 540 zz block and call it a day. :D