Originally Posted by mcprodesign (Post 4075930)

Single stage concept with clear.. ( only if you can not get Imron) and the 48 should work but the 40 is better. It will be fine. I am just really really picky because I only worked on high end stuff in my collision restoration repair carreer.Even DBC. Omni is just the cheapy version. Now can you tell me If I can use the 19170540 instead of the 19170540 with my pan crank etc. I know I need to change my timing cover to a 10 bolt right? Or should I just use a 540 zz block and call it a day. :D

Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER (Post 4075933)

Shoot me an email, I been out of the loop on your dilemma there. Bring me up to speed. You posted the same block numbers so not sure what you're askin

Originally Posted by mcprodesign (Post 4075926)

The lifting is not from the Imron. Lifting comes from the fuel getting under the paint. Like if you taped the fuel breather off. The paint edge could be exposed and get peneterated. Or it was not sanded. ( kinda hard to sand it good if the piece was taped around and not removed.) All Kenworth Semi Tractors have Imron on them. So I don't think a little fuel would eat the paint off. Also . In the sun or at engine temp it takes less than a month to fully cure.. Baking only speeds up the process. Sorry to say it like it is. I painted for the Military ( Parts for F16's, B1's, Submarines etc, even the guidence part of the bombs dropped on Momar Kadoffie's ( sp?) house !! ) and some paints like vinyl paints have to be baked, but not true with catalized paints.- Have a good day.Chad

Originally Posted by So2fast5u (Post 4076536)

I would have ceramic coated them bad boys!!

Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER (Post 4076562)

Most of my boating buds are sporting the polished GMC style blowers. Considering I had painted blowers already, i thought i'd be different. Hopefully when they are all together they will look cool and different once sitting in the bilge.

Originally Posted by So2fast5u (Post 4076677)

Sum beach! I need a nanny....