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Old 02-16-2014 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by mcprodesign
Single stage concept with clear.. ( only if you can not get Imron) and the 48 should work but the 40 is better. It will be fine. I am just really really picky because I only worked on high end stuff in my collision restoration repair carreer.Even DBC. Omni is just the cheapy version. Now can you tell me If I can use the 19170540 instead of the 19170540 with my pan crank etc. I know I need to change my timing cover to a 10 bolt right? Or should I just use a 540 zz block and call it a day.
Shoot me an email, I been out of the loop on your dilemma there. Bring me up to speed. You posted the same block numbers so not sure what you're askin
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Old 02-16-2014 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
Shoot me an email, I been out of the loop on your dilemma there. Bring me up to speed. You posted the same block numbers so not sure what you're askin
sorry 19212192 can i use this instead of a 19170540
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Old 02-17-2014 | 07:23 PM
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I would have ceramic coated them bad boys!!
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Old 02-17-2014 | 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by mcprodesign
The lifting is not from the Imron. Lifting comes from the fuel getting under the paint. Like if you taped the fuel breather off. The paint edge could be exposed and get peneterated. Or it was not sanded. ( kinda hard to sand it good if the piece was taped around and not removed.) All Kenworth Semi Tractors have Imron on them. So I don't think a little fuel would eat the paint off. Also . In the sun or at engine temp it takes less than a month to fully cure.. Baking only speeds up the process. Sorry to say it like it is. I painted for the Military ( Parts for F16's, B1's, Submarines etc, even the guidence part of the bombs dropped on Momar Kadoffie's ( sp?) house !! ) and some paints like vinyl paints have to be baked, but not true with catalized paints.- Have a good day.Chad
Yep, it started by the aluminum rub rail (an edge). Overall I was pleased shooting Imron. It laid really flat. But, being used to shooting base clear, I decided to wet sand buff after. Long term I'm glad I did, but at that time, the reflection went from a 10 to a 9. But it's flat as glass. Especially after a few years of spring buffing.

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Old 02-17-2014 | 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by So2fast5u
I would have ceramic coated them bad boys!!
Most of my boating buds are sporting the polished GMC style blowers. Considering I had painted blowers already, i thought i'd be different. Hopefully when they are all together they will look cool and different once sitting in the bilge.
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Old 02-17-2014 | 08:17 PM
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Yup it will look diff. I'm just into the bling stuff I guess..
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Old 02-17-2014 | 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
Most of my boating buds are sporting the polished GMC style blowers. Considering I had painted blowers already, i thought i'd be different. Hopefully when they are all together they will look cool and different once sitting in the bilge.
wtf you use a pic of our nannys ass as a your avatar pick for Your motors look bad ass dude. I lpve the flat black. Everyones going for the murdered out matt black out here... cant keep it on tbe shelves. Btw i dont have any delema
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Old 02-18-2014 | 06:15 AM
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Sum beach! I need a nanny....
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Old 02-18-2014 | 11:32 AM
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What are you guys doing on your aluminum parts (i.e. heads, intakes) to keep them from oxidizing? I have the purty new AFR heads on my mill, and would love to keep them looking new, but hate the idea of painting them or powdercoating them.
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Old 02-18-2014 | 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by So2fast5u
Sum beach! I need a nanny....
I think she's winking at you...
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