Engine paint question.
12-29-2013, 11:02 PM
#41
Registered
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Brookfield Wi
Posts: 769
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've shot both of these below.
IMO if you are going to use an epoxy primer I would use Sikkens. Though, I would top coat in the recommended time since this stuff is tough as nails. Seriously. Due to frame mods I had to let the primer completely setup. Prepping the surface (scuffing) was VERY difficult. Not cheap stuff either. Stone chips hasn't even come close to penetrating the primer on this Cobra since 2001.
I like Imron for single stage but still prone to fuel lifting paint issues. Especially in the first year without baking. I have some lifting around the vent on this boat painted in 2006. Still very shiny though.
Options options
IMO if you are going to use an epoxy primer I would use Sikkens. Though, I would top coat in the recommended time since this stuff is tough as nails. Seriously. Due to frame mods I had to let the primer completely setup. Prepping the surface (scuffing) was VERY difficult. Not cheap stuff either. Stone chips hasn't even come close to penetrating the primer on this Cobra since 2001.
I like Imron for single stage but still prone to fuel lifting paint issues. Especially in the first year without baking. I have some lifting around the vent on this boat painted in 2006. Still very shiny though.
Options options
12-29-2013, 11:32 PM
#42
VIP Member
[ATTACH=CONFIG]515397[/ATTACH]
We started here:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]515398[/ATTACH]
Passed here:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]515399[/ATTACH]
And ended here: (the pearl doesn't show in the crappy phone pic)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]515400[/ATTACH]
The VW was my GF's reward for beating breast cancer.
12-30-2013, 08:48 AM
#44
Registered
iTrader: (1)
POR 15 is tough as hell but don't get it in the sun light, no UV protection..... had two 57 chevy frames one painted with straight urethane PPG black, the other with POR 15 after 6 months outside in the weather, the urethane black looked like it was just painted, the POR15 black was now a drab dull gray, and then we went to strip it to paint it with urethane and that was such a pain in the ass, ended up sand blasting it off...
http://www.por15.com/FLEXCOTE_p_39.html
If its as tough as POR might be worth consideration.
Developed for the marine industry to resist moisture and salt spray, our FlexCoteTM has been found to work incredibly well in construction and industrial applications in any climate.
Our new single component topcoat for use over POR-15 Rust Preventive Paint® or other painted and primed surfaces. Our formula is simple: we pack FlexCoteTM with a higher solids content than other paints have and we use less solvent as a carrier. When the solvent evaporates, there's more paint on the job. FlexCoteTM has excellent hiding power and has exceptional long-term gloss and color retention. It is also extremely flexible and resists abrasion and chipping which means long term durability. Available in 16 great colors. FlexCoteTM can be brushed, rolled or sprayed.
Our new single component topcoat for use over POR-15 Rust Preventive Paint® or other painted and primed surfaces. Our formula is simple: we pack FlexCoteTM with a higher solids content than other paints have and we use less solvent as a carrier. When the solvent evaporates, there's more paint on the job. FlexCoteTM has excellent hiding power and has exceptional long-term gloss and color retention. It is also extremely flexible and resists abrasion and chipping which means long term durability. Available in 16 great colors. FlexCoteTM can be brushed, rolled or sprayed.
02-16-2014, 10:32 AM
#45
[ATTACH=CONFIG]518732[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]518733[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]518734[/ATTACH]
Ended up using PPG epoxy primer, and PPG Omni line paint. Bought some used valve covers that were polished, but decided to paint them too. Should change the look of the engines a little bit when its all together.
Ended up using PPG epoxy primer, and PPG Omni line paint. Bought some used valve covers that were polished, but decided to paint them too. Should change the look of the engines a little bit when its all together.
02-16-2014, 11:44 AM
#46
Registered
[ATTACH=CONFIG]518732[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]518733[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]518734[/ATTACH]
Ended up using PPG epoxy primer, and PPG Omni line paint. Bought some used valve covers that were polished, but decided to paint them too. Should change the look of the engines a little bit when its all together.
Ended up using PPG epoxy primer, and PPG Omni line paint. Bought some used valve covers that were polished, but decided to paint them too. Should change the look of the engines a little bit when its all together.
Last edited by mcprodesign; 02-16-2014 at 11:48 AM.
02-16-2014, 12:07 PM
#47
Registered
I've shot both of these below.
IMO if you are going to use an epoxy primer I would use Sikkens. Though, I would top coat in the recommended time since this stuff is tough as nails. Seriously. Due to frame mods I had to let the primer completely setup. Prepping the surface (scuffing) was VERY difficult. Not cheap stuff either. Stone chips hasn't even come close to penetrating the primer on this Cobra since 2001.
I like Imron for single stage but still prone to fuel lifting paint issues. Especially in the first year without baking. I have some lifting around the vent on this boat painted in 2006. Still very shiny though.
Options options
IMO if you are going to use an epoxy primer I would use Sikkens. Though, I would top coat in the recommended time since this stuff is tough as nails. Seriously. Due to frame mods I had to let the primer completely setup. Prepping the surface (scuffing) was VERY difficult. Not cheap stuff either. Stone chips hasn't even come close to penetrating the primer on this Cobra since 2001.
I like Imron for single stage but still prone to fuel lifting paint issues. Especially in the first year without baking. I have some lifting around the vent on this boat painted in 2006. Still very shiny though.
Options options
Last edited by mcprodesign; 02-16-2014 at 12:14 PM.
02-16-2014, 12:13 PM
#48
Looks good the omni line is junk so it will be good to see how it holds up. Imron is the way to go(#1) , then concept, ( #2 Choice) If you used expoxy primer I hope it was the dp 40 dp 90 line.. It sticks to alumuminum real well. Aluminum emits oils so regular paint comes of without epoxy or even etching ptimer. Pm next time. Also por 15 is a primer used to cover stuff up. It may look good but it needs to be topcoated for exterior
02-16-2014, 12:19 PM
#49
Registered
Single stage concept with clear.. ( only if you can not get Imron) and the 48 should work but the 40 is better. It will be fine. I am just really really picky because I only worked on high end stuff in my collision restoration repair carreer.Even DBC. Omni is just the cheapy version. Now can you tell me If I can use the 19170540 instead of the 19170540 with my pan crank etc. I know I need to change my timing cover to a 10 bolt right? Or should I just use a 540 zz block and call it a day. 
02-16-2014, 12:28 PM
#50
Single stage concept with clear.. ( only if you can not get Imron) and the 48 should work but the 40 is better. It will be fine. I am just really really picky because I only worked on high end stuff in my collision restoration repair carreer.Even DBC. Omni is just the cheapy version. Now can you tell me If I can use the 19170540 instead of the 19170540 with my pan crank etc. I know I need to change my timing cover to a 10 bolt right? Or should I just use a 540 zz block and call it a day.
