10-2-1 comp, big 355? brodix heads, 1150 carb, 4.375stroke, I will get the build sheets but I was just seeing what others were running.

My statement was directed at the other guy pslonaker not you Johnny. I'm following for knowledge but had to chime in at that joker.

Carry on. Lol

johnny,you said you bought **** heads from me,lets talk about them.i sold you 2 sets of used brodix aluminum heads complete with valves& springs that came off of 580 cu in supercharged engines[origionally sc800s] for 3000.for both sets.i told you what they came off of and as far as corrosion in the cooling ports it was minimal,if i thought they needed repair i would have sent them out but they looked good.i gave you the stamped numbers that brodix puts on every head they produce.i am sorry that you are not seing the hp numbers that you were looking for but when you peice engines togeather with used parts that you buy cheeply you cant expect to get the same results as a well thought out build with new high dollar parts.i am posting this responce because it appeared to me as you are trying to make it look like i misrepresented the parts you bought from me,I DID NOT.

Mike i didnt say anything other than your who bought them from, i cant remember what size they were and when i called you , awhile ago you couldnt either. I figured one of your buddy may had remember them, seems like you are all close so i figured someone would remember which ones they were, yes you are right bi knew they needed corrosion repair never said anything about it.CHEAPLY i deff am not in these cheap!!!!!

Thanks to all the help and pms from you guys ,

Man I thought everyone was friends here on this site. This is what happened in racing everyone stopped helping each other and looking down on the little guy. Some can be rude or **** heads to each other but I know I'm no better than the next person and I don't care who has money or not. We do well and still help the little guy. But what I'm noticing is we are deeper into winter and our manginas are acting up so let's look at the big picture that 2 months from now we all should be equal. A boat is a boat but you can't replace good friends and times.

On a side note my next question will be what is a good clearance on marine engines for bbc. On the mains and rods. I will be using coated bearings. Like I said before I am scared that this is my first motor build but I want to say I did it and with the help of the good guys on this site so let's respect each other and their opinions on helping each other. Now democrat or republican is a whole different argument not engine parts.

I believe .0028-.0032 was the general consensus. It's what I've been using. If its a low rpm low hp motor it can be a little tighter like .0025 but bigger power and sustained higher rpm I believe you want to be closer to .003.

Ok thx. See the deal is I could call the guy who built my engines for drag racing but I don't want to hurt his feelings. I appreciate it.

I like to see .004 on the back end .0035 on the rest I like the kings bearings for performance builds. All the clearances need to be checked carefully. Lifter bore valves ect.

Does king make a +.001 bearing? I couldn't find any and std hp's are at .0045 on my mains when I checked today. Picked up some coated clevites a few minutes ago.

I went through all of the bearing questions a year ago when I built my shortblock - traded a lot of emails with they guys in Mahle-Clevite's tech support department. For the most part, in marine engines the general consensus is still .0025 - .0028 on rods and around .0030 on the mains - most also like to run a little more clearance in that rear main as well, maybe around .0035. I am not going to begin to claim to be an expert, but I did communicate with several highly respected builders around these forums, and there are some who are starting to move away from large clearances with high volume oil pumps and heavy weight oils and more in the direction of tighter clearances with lower oil pressures and lighter weight synthetic oils. That's not to say that your engine is not going to live if you run the wider clearances, but the thinking is that it might not really be necessary to put so much pressure on the distributor drive gears and use up extra HP to run 50 weight oil at 90 PSI. I'm sure there are going to be many differing opinions on this (much like camshafts).

Have you measured the main bearing bores? Is the issue here, or has the crank been polished to produce the extra clearance?

The crank is 2.748, so the my guess is the bore is a little loose. Ill have to measure the bore tomorrow and make sure there is sufficient crush.

AFR 315 Heads
victor Jr
950HP
10.5 to 1
Dyno Headers
715HP at 6000
697#/ft
91 Octane California

296/300 237/241 206/208 154/151 96/75 .363/.335 103/111

Are you using a bore gauge and a mic to get your measurements? I'm pretty sure king makes a +1

I'm with you on that everyone has there preferences on clearances and oil. I've seen .006 clearance on some big hp twin turbo stuff with an extra thrust bearing in the front of the block. The way I look at it is as the hp goes up so do the clearances if you want it to live.

Yes dial bore gauge, checked it several times.

cstraub thank you that's the kind of reply I was looking for.

Look at that cam a little closer.

Main thing that should stick out is the 107LSA. (103/111 centerlines = 107LSA)

Would you put that in an I/O Offshore boat ? I think not.

ooops..double post

I saw that must be dry pipes or? Like I said I'm not a motor guru I have just been wondering why these bigger engine didn't produce more power, I have noticed alot of engine listed from several builder that 620 to 650 is the horsepower rating, maybe the key to that is reliability , trouble free or big horsepower and broken springs, push rods or worse so who knows but i have a pm from bob and will be getting in touch with him after I get all my specs, I've never spent a dollar with Eddie young but I called him and he is a top notch good guy, he treated me as I was a long time friend so he's got my buisness in the near future.

Its plain to see that there are only (2) REAL WORLD, FIRST CLASS, ALL KNOWING CAM GURU'S. 1 begins with Pole and ends with smoker the other starts with C ends with slob....that is if you want BS. If you want a real world custom cam that will match your application down to the boat, exhaust, heads, drives, ect, ect. then save some time and call..... B O B.

He WILL NOT post hi cam #'s as they are proprietary and if there were ABC cams we (the good guys) would of only used him once or twice not for years.

Do off the shelf cams work? Sure some do. Do they work for all applications? No only the one they were designed for. The last shelf cam I bought was for a 365 Merc Mag it was for a stock build and worked well.

How do the good guys know whats works..........they have 1 of these.

Everyone has never paid attention to the original question ( which is what cam is everyone running on 540plus ci 700plus n/a engines) i was curious about others peoples not mine, only a few people caught the question everybody else started talking about my build hell i was looking for what everybody else was doing just comparing notes, ive talked to bob before and hes the man with the plan, ive started noticing everyone seems to be rude towards people on here anymore, this site was built to help each other out, if you cant help someone with out blowing a fuse and start *****ing about someone else then maybe your not for this site. We all come on here looking for advise some we beleive some goes in one ear and out the other. But before anyone starts answering maybe reading the question thru out would keep it at a simple level.

Johnny, the key to making X amount of HP per ci, is in the induction. I am pretty sure the cylinder heads you purchased from Mike Tkach, are not 355cc? I could have sworn they were reg BB2 heads or bb2 plus. They are older heads, and I am pretty sure they are good heads from a quality standpoint, and work well with a power added like Haxby stated earlier in the thread. 620HP isn't steller, but it isn't a absolute turd either. Probably about where one could be using as cast performance heads, with a shelf style hyd roller camshaft. Your still making a little better than 1.1HP per cubic inch. That would be comparable to a 454 making 500HP.

With that being said, my honest opinion, if 700HP or better is what you seek, you're gonna need to make some changes, probably in both camshaft, and cylinder heads, possibly intake. Whether it be doing some porting on those current heads by a good head specialist, or replacing them all together. You start getting into 1.3HP per ci, things start becoming more and more important as far as head flow, design, valvetrain dynamics, and the rest of the induction. If it was as simple as bolting parts on a shortblock and making huge numbers, well, we all would have 700+hp 540's that idle like stockers and live a long valvetrain life.

Dealing with Eddie or Bob madera is a win. They have proven recipes that work, and work well.

And most of my engine builder customers have that along with a full shop to do the work needed to make the numbers the engine needs to make. Some have multiple dyno and huge R&D budgets like ATK North America.

You asked what size cam is needed and I posted one. Heads with excellent low to mid lift numbers in these marine engines and the rpm they run will not require large cams to make decent power.

What good is knowing cam specs for an engine that has no relation to yours? What are you trying to compare, and how would you even compare it if you don't know what you have in yours? It seems like you started this thread to take a poke at Mike, and you obviously aren't concerned with making more HP, if possible, with yours because you won't answer the questions necessary to help you. This whole thread is a joke.

and the one you posted, if used with wet exhaust will revert all day long.

Unless lucky enough it sucks a seagull back in and stalls the motor before the water does.

I only said I got the heads from mike, because he didn't or do I remember the head numbers and they're not near me at the time, yes I figured big heads, big ci, big cam, big carb meant it would make big power excuse me for asking what other people's cams were. Like I said I went from a set of blown 557s to a set of n/a 557s I figured they would produce atleast 700hp but they didn't and I was just trying to see if my motors compared to others build sheets or specs were close or way off . I'm just going to let this thread go I'm over it trying to ask, I've got a call in to bob so I will leave it at that. And as for the heads I got from mike they're great I didn't say anything bad about them other than they may be to big for my application .

You are nothing more than parts salesperson with ZERO knowledge or ability....years of your BS prove that. As far as polesmoker goes his video tells his story better than anything I could come up with to discredit him.

OP came to his senses........... nothing more to see

Haxby, quick question, are you still selling some AFR's ?

You are so mis-informed sir. The OP is right, this forum use to be great for shared knowledge.

As long as the people sharing it know what they are talking about. People quoting 107 cams for wet exhaust clearly don't

He can't be Didn't some big shot tell him that he would make sure he couldn't get them?;):cool-smiley-027::evilb:

This is he OP's POST:
Just curious what's everybody running for a cam in 540 and larger ci 700plus hp N/A

Can you diagram the sentence to show me where it states Wet Exhaust?

True.

He didn't state if he had a car with a 3500 stall converter, 3.73-4.11 gears, and what the car weighed either.

Come on man, this is Offshore Only. So....an offshore boat probably with a Bravo drive.

Would you run this cam with an I/O driven BOAT and say dry exhaust even?

Scott Birmingham, how are you? That cam in the 540 would idle at 450 rpm. It had 12" vacuum at 900 rpm. Based on its power out put and power range and how its manners were it would work in a marine application with dry exhaust. At 83 degrees of overlap you could not run that in wet exhaust.