It's just kind of odd that I originally had the temp gauge in the pans and a certain engine builder moved it to the top back of the block. Now, that particular engine builder may be not the best example of the definitive answer to anything..........did that make any sense? The second builder, however was Zul. Rich moved them to the block/filter area. I asked about the pan as I have the bungs in them. He just said "no this is fine". So, I guess he is a believer of SB number 2 option.

Here's my honest 02 on why many builders put it here. ie: after cooler.

Too cold oil has always been more of a detriment + issue than too warm of oil.

By putting it on the colder side, they are less likely to have customer issues from oil temp.

Too cold of an oil is just plain old, not healthy !

Again, just my guess on why placement but my brain says it's a sound one.

I run one oil temp gauge with two senders wired to a three way switch. One after filters but before cooler/thermostat and other sender just before oil goes back into block adaptor. That way i can toggle between the two and see if i am getting excessive pan temps or switch to the other and see if my cooler/thermostat is functioning as it should making sure that the oil returning to the block is neither too hot nor too cold.

Old Goldilocks wishes she had revolutionary technology like this when she entered the three bears home......

A little birdie gave me this idea and it is a great idea. Oil temps at a single point is one thing, knowing the thermal cycle of the oil is another......

Brilliant! What are you running for an oil thernostat? I am trying out a 215 degree unit along with a large teague cooler.

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...sjoon847c.jpeg

Running a cheap ole $58 from jegs Derale Performance 180° thermostat. 1/2" npt ports but i ditched nipples that came with it and went to 5/8" barb. Mounted it right to a port on the 3"x18" cooler tucked on side of block. Seems to work great despite the setup costs $400 less than a cooler with built in thermostat although I used materials from Home Depot in the plumbing. No way I was going AN with it all. Every port on oil system is 1/2 npt and uses 5/8" id lines. Plenty of flow and plenty of filtration from dual parallel 1 qt capacity filters. Stock 8 qt pan but total system volume is 12 quarts. After running 13 miles straight between 5000 and 5300 rpm to outrun weather, temps never got above 220°.

http://derale.com/products/coolers/a...m-blade-detail

Looks just like yours on the inside Borgie but not billet and no AN threads on the outside

If I had unlimited dollars, I'd use that super power to end threads like this. Case in point-

Go to Sterling, YPM, Chief, Smith, Teague, etc and have two identical engines built, 1000hp minimum. Label them L & R. I'd then stuff these into similarly titled sides of say a 40' Skater and head from NY to the keys at a "hey, look at me, I'm running drugs" pace. Engine L gets super fantastic unicorn jizz, and Engine R gets quickee mart special 50wt.

That would never end it.

Two camps:

1) Those who are using something that is working perfectly well for them. IE: absolutely no issues what so ever, feel why spend more time for something possibly better, because even if it actually has better chemical makeup, it doesn't matter because one is not running into a lubrication issue.

2) Those who really discover, or think they discover, an oil or oils that has much better chemical makeup than most are using and get pissed off that no one is listening enough to make the switch to that oil. They feel like they are being shunned and can't believe that people are disregarding this unbelievably great info. They feel their intelligence is being questioned and become louder.

Simple really.

And yeh, it happens on every single forum that revolves around something with a motor or engine.

Remember all the motor vs engine fights around the forum world ? I'm sure it still happens.

These threads are the best! Good laugh..... but seriously I still have a whole bunch of round cans of oil from the late 70's early 80's. One day they will be aged perfectly. I like the K=mart ones,they will be history.

Mobil1 15w=50 is the current lube. Going 15 hrs interval.

Amazing how simplicity and common sense seems to fly right by the brain. Great idea! Never thought of that one.

Oil companies do not test oil at 90 degrees.

The closest temp is 100F or 40C.

I run Spectro Motorguard 20w50 with 1800 PPM of Zinc. My oil temp at WFO runs 260-270.

Oh yeah, a 10w40at a start up temp of 50 F is A LOT THICKER than a SAE50 at 210F

Ken