Oh crap, you just had to go there, didn't you?

Do you have an oil temp gauge on the engines? If so, what are the oil temps when your pressure falls off at idle? If no filters, aim a temp gun on the oil pan and filter.

Sorry he left himself wide open.

I still have my helmet on and am still sitting in the corner, therefore I still can't hear you guys.

La, la, la, la, la........La,la, la, la, la.

Now whistling......

Would someone please get his helmet!

Send your wives or girlfriends. I don't let guys touch my helmet.

I was coming back from a pee break when I heard you.

Now Sitting down.

La,la,la,la,......

The whole situation has me very confused. I do need larger coolers but now with the cooler water my temp is staying around 180-190. I'm sure it's not water as im not making any oil and it returns to its original state in a minute or so.. As far as how much oil it expels i think I've had to add a quart each the whole season so not a lot but enough to make a mess. I'm running 20w50 Schaefer racing oil which is always clean and doesn't smell burnt.

As far as the guys I'm talking to, the builder is limited on the real high performance stuff but Baxter on the other hand has two hemis in the 800 and 900ci range making 1100 and 1300 naturally aspirated. Blocks and heads all started as a block of raw aluminum. Only two Chrysler based blocks I know in existence to have a Chevy rear bolt pattern. So while nobody knows everything I think he knows a lot.

Maybe I'll work on doing a leak down before I go chasing a problem blind.

Did he use lifter valley screens? Or did the previous builder? 20/50 is pretty thick and it will drain slower back to the pan. Screens will exacerbate the situation. ...whew, that's a big word

What temp is 180-190? Oil or water?
Also, what exactly are you motors?

Stock windage tray , oil pan and oil line size from my HP500 .