Dyno proven 675-700 HP 540CI recipes?
11-18-2014, 07:15 PM
#41
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-83606/overview/
11-18-2014, 08:53 PM
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11-18-2014, 11:09 PM
#44
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Getting ready to start buying parts soon,I am redoing shortblocks all new 540CI
I have 320CC all redone Pro Comp heads 118CC chambers, not sure flow but told they are comparable to dart and such with 320CC runner
Looking for general cam info and such, where cam was installed RPM max and that, dyno sheets would be cool, tring to get ideas of what to look at for cams, I can get cams I think that seem right up my alley, wanna see what other guys used in that range.
I have 320CC all redone Pro Comp heads 118CC chambers, not sure flow but told they are comparable to dart and such with 320CC runner
Looking for general cam info and such, where cam was installed RPM max and that, dyno sheets would be cool, tring to get ideas of what to look at for cams, I can get cams I think that seem right up my alley, wanna see what other guys used in that range.
11-18-2014, 11:22 PM
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and to add to the fire did i say they were phuckin sh!t,,even in the bowx.out of the box and even when gellner got through with them..the castings suck and shift ALOT under power..heat them up and your valve seat moves to another spot and wont seal..the aluminum and elmers glue combination just wont hold up to heat..did you also know that the castings are off in relation with the bolt holes and they don't line up with the doll pins properly..sh!t Shi! sh!t..phuckin garbage junk sh!t crap stinky morfidite junk did i say sh!t.. i would rather have peanut port heads on the motors then that junk.. i just hate to see another person go through what my last customer went through with his machinist and after his old machinest tearing down hid engine 5 times and they still came apart i ordered a set of afr's and he has been a happy camper..
11-19-2014, 05:12 AM
#46
Procomp,,sh!t Shi! sh!t..phuckin garbage junk sh!t crap stinky morfidite junk did i say sh!t yet... You will have problems,,rite now check all the chambers,ill bet they range from 114 cc's to 121 cc's.. they are not hard anodised and the water flowing through them will deteriorate with in the first week,,they use elmers glue to hold the aluminum fibers together..sh!t Shi! sh!t..phuckin garbage junk sh!t crap stinky morfidite junk did i say sh!t
11-19-2014, 06:32 AM
#47
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I myself; have never experienced the use of ProComp Heads. I just know from someone elses, experience of using them. Valve angles, guides, rocker arm geometry are issues with the heads. Alignment of guide-plates with valve stems which is going to change the load angle on the valve stem, in reference to valve guide, this equates to the cheap valves guides wearing out prematurely. If valve seats fall out, either the interference fit is incorrect or something is definitely wrong with the alloy of the aluminum they are using. Lets take into consideration, what is the heat-treatment they are using. I have welded up plenty of combustion chambers and valve seat areas for installing new seats in heads. Much is said; of the quality of the head when it comes to machining the surface and welding repairs.
I have seen, cast USA heads taken from being quality bolt on parts, to someone else working their "magic" on them and completely ruining the valve job to the point the the valve seat isnt even concentric with the valve. That comes from either, bent valves or most-likely; bad tooling (bent pilots).
If you have to resort to welding up guide plates, for alignment for a stock or plus .100" valve length something is wrong. Most heads are going to be engineered, with the proper locations for valve angles, location and rocker arm, boss positions with correct angles. If the valve angle, and rocker angles are not equal, the contact area on the valve stem is going to be side-loaded, showing a wear pattern on valve tip and guide or stem wear.
You get what you pay for. Lipstick on a pig/ chicken **** to chicken salad, it's all the same.
I really enjoyed the PROCOMP MSD. It says a lot for a knock-off electronic box. I myself; stopped using MSD boxes along time ago. Switched to Cranes Marine Box, Started using the Daytona Sensor CD-1 Marine. The engineer @ Daytona actually designed the Crane box back then and wanted to improve it, which Crane declined, most likely due to closing their doors at the time. It's a good box, my original is still bolted to my dyno.
The Daytona is a digital box, works the best with the Merc Thunderbolt distributor, Hall effect signal. You can fully program your own curves, by USB and software. MAP sensors and TPS sensors can be incorporated to be used with your standard carburetor set-up. Your timing can be programed close to a EFI with TPS and KPa settings, for out of gear and in gear loads.
The set-up comes now with the USB cable and program. The unit comes with the coil also included, the retail on it is $595, fully potted and sealed for marine certification. I was just informed the other day about the USB cable and program being included with unit with price changes coming into effect.
I have seen, cast USA heads taken from being quality bolt on parts, to someone else working their "magic" on them and completely ruining the valve job to the point the the valve seat isnt even concentric with the valve. That comes from either, bent valves or most-likely; bad tooling (bent pilots).
If you have to resort to welding up guide plates, for alignment for a stock or plus .100" valve length something is wrong. Most heads are going to be engineered, with the proper locations for valve angles, location and rocker arm, boss positions with correct angles. If the valve angle, and rocker angles are not equal, the contact area on the valve stem is going to be side-loaded, showing a wear pattern on valve tip and guide or stem wear.
You get what you pay for. Lipstick on a pig/ chicken **** to chicken salad, it's all the same.
I really enjoyed the PROCOMP MSD. It says a lot for a knock-off electronic box. I myself; stopped using MSD boxes along time ago. Switched to Cranes Marine Box, Started using the Daytona Sensor CD-1 Marine. The engineer @ Daytona actually designed the Crane box back then and wanted to improve it, which Crane declined, most likely due to closing their doors at the time. It's a good box, my original is still bolted to my dyno.
The Daytona is a digital box, works the best with the Merc Thunderbolt distributor, Hall effect signal. You can fully program your own curves, by USB and software. MAP sensors and TPS sensors can be incorporated to be used with your standard carburetor set-up. Your timing can be programed close to a EFI with TPS and KPa settings, for out of gear and in gear loads.
The set-up comes now with the USB cable and program. The unit comes with the coil also included, the retail on it is $595, fully potted and sealed for marine certification. I was just informed the other day about the USB cable and program being included with unit with price changes coming into effect.
11-19-2014, 06:32 AM
#48
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Sorry, gotta use them, no choice, I dont have another 5000.00 to buy new heads right now... it is what it is.... Gellner said he even did new seats also... basically used casting thats it..
If someone wants to buy me heads feel free, I barely have the budget to do the shortblocks this winter due to being out of work for a hip replacement, the extra money just ISN'T THERE this time and again the heads have been completely redone to the best they can be by a GOOD name builder... guys I get it but that's all I can do man....if the money was there I would buy new heads and start over...
If someone wants to buy me heads feel free, I barely have the budget to do the shortblocks this winter due to being out of work for a hip replacement, the extra money just ISN'T THERE this time and again the heads have been completely redone to the best they can be by a GOOD name builder... guys I get it but that's all I can do man....if the money was there I would buy new heads and start over...
Last edited by Full Force; 11-19-2014 at 06:37 AM.
11-19-2014, 07:01 AM
#49
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I'm getting very close to selling it all and putting 420's back in it....
MAybe a miracle will happen and I make more money after surgery recover and I can afford heads after doing shortblocks, not likely but maybe...
Who sells a trusted Inconel valve .650 lift capable head at a decent price? I would need to know what I am looking at.... I cannot afford to get nuts this winter if I want to boat at all next summer... I am so frustrated with buying the Scarab for the engines I wish I never did and kept my 420.s.... I really dont need the ass beating from guys here about the heads... I at least spent money making them right and doing what I can, if I must use them and take a chance I guess I dont have a choice, I got fukked, and fukked good.
MAybe a miracle will happen and I make more money after surgery recover and I can afford heads after doing shortblocks, not likely but maybe...
Who sells a trusted Inconel valve .650 lift capable head at a decent price? I would need to know what I am looking at.... I cannot afford to get nuts this winter if I want to boat at all next summer... I am so frustrated with buying the Scarab for the engines I wish I never did and kept my 420.s.... I really dont need the ass beating from guys here about the heads... I at least spent money making them right and doing what I can, if I must use them and take a chance I guess I dont have a choice, I got fukked, and fukked good.
Last edited by Full Force; 11-19-2014 at 07:17 AM.
