CMI made the new tails. They dump the water 3/4" from the end..

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A little update.. everything's complete and back together.. hoping to light 'em up next week..

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Can you idle all 3 at once on the hose? Or do you run out of water?

Have never tried.. have always assumed I wouldn't have enough pressure to run all three motors.

You should not ever run (Idle) more than one motor on a hose, & thats one with 60 psi going through a .750 hose.. you can cause damage to your headers. I takes a minimum of 6 gpm of water @ idle.

I took my y pipes off so I could remove my center driveshift bearing carrier. The pies block the bolts from coming up far enough. I took the illegal silent choice off and bought gb muffler slip ins for the center and gb with the 4 inch pipe to replace the section where the diverters were. Works great. Looks great and is the least cost compliant exhaust.

I just removed my silent choice. I finally found out the hard way why my heads were rotting in the exhaust ports. My heads were installed 2 years ago and I had no idea I was getting a slight reversion because I had no idling issues. Engines ran smooth.. After I was removing my 2 center exhaust manifolds recently to change my starter I noticed the rust in my head ports. This happened years ago to my other heads where the head ports rusted from reversion and were leaking water into the cylinders from being rotted so badly.. As for the y-pipe, I first tried the Fernco 4" rubber cap. That was way too big. The y-pipe is oval not round. A 3" cap probably will be too small so I used the stainless pipe plugs to cap off the y-pipes. You have to use a ss pipe clamp with extra teeth to get a tight bond. The ss pipe plugs seem to be a bit small for the oval exhaust boot that you still have to use. The pipe plug was too sloppy in the rubber boot so I also added silicone to take up any gaps. You figure for 50 bucks each it would be a tighter fit. As for the y-pipes breaking from jumping waves, well I don't jump 6 - 10 footers out in the ocean so I'm not going to worry about my y-pipes breaking off. I have enough little cracks in various places from jumping. If you saw how not thick your hull is you wouldn't jump anymore.

Hi there HyFive578,

Sometimes water reversion is not an exhaust problem per say but a Boat problem.. Ya I said it and i know its a fountain that Reggie designed and ya I know I am going to get flamed but here is a common problem. Boats heavy in the ass with a swim platform can trap water and force it up the exhaust on some boats while coming off plane fast or even just sitting at the sandbar and waves slapping up under the platform. The external flappers help but you need both internal and external flappers. You said you ran the exhaust open most of the time, as I did, and we suffered the same problems.I ruined a motor in 60 hrs that way. My internal flappers were burned out and i did not know it. I actually think If I had the Silent choice closed and going out the lower instead of the thru hull while sitting at the sandbar getting hit by waves all day, the water would have never got in the motors

Chris

Good point and I always had them closed while sitting in the water with engines off. My problem was the size of my camshaft and using short risers. Even if i left my silent choice in the opened position while sitting if water went up the pipe it would most likely enter the y-pipe first. Now I have longer pipes with drew marine silencers. The are blocked off pipe end but have small holes at bottom of the pipe. Another point, A lot of people start their boats on the trailer in a steep angle this is no good. Most likely the pipes are under the water. I put my boat in the water off. Tie to a dock and then start it

I hear what you're saying Chris and it does make sense, but I really don't think the boat is the problem. I've spoken to several reputable engine guys about this problem and they've encountered this problem with 525's and Silent Choice on other boats besides Fountains, ie: Cigs, Nortechs, etc. Specifically one case of a 38 Top Gun with the exact same setup and reversion problem and that needed motors replaced twice; they removed the Silent Choice and went to dry tails like I did and the problem was solved for good. I had both internal and external flappers. As you can see from my earlier post, I've already replaced the entire tailpipe assembly. I'm pretty confident this will do the trick. Those new tails are dry all the way to about 1 inch from the tip.