My second would be crower.
Best bang for the buck.

I've probably used them all and never had any trouble out of any of them. I run the Callie's ultra xd I-beam in my 632 and its a really nice rod.

Deep, for your particular build, I'd go for the Callies Compstar. Best bang for the buck out there, IMO. The Oliver's are awesome, and so are the Callies Ultra, which is what I usually use. But both of those may be more then you want to spend, and more then you really need. If I was building a 1000hp combo for a customer, I'd use the ultra, if I was building it for myself I'd use the Compstar.

That is interesting. What is your thought process on this?

The difference is the person you have to answer to should the slight chance of something going wrong happen lol

Basically, if I'm putting a 1000hp engine out in the field with my name on it, I'm going to go overkill on all the components. If I'm doing it for myself, I'll put in what I feel is adequate, knowing that I'll always be on top of the tune, and it's maintenance. Sometimes I'll even run something that isn't supposed to work at that power level, just to try it out. Performance connecting rods are relatively new in the aftermarket performance parts world, guys were making big power with factory stuff not that long ago, and are again today. The machining, tolerances, and tuning are WAY more important then the physical strength of the components in a lot of cases, and the vast majority of failures can be attributed to one, or many of those items.

Pushing above 900 hp with higher torque loads, especially in a forced induction application, is going to be your limits on using a lower quality rod. Any rod manufacturer will give you their limits of the rods application.

One other thing to consider, when selecting a lower priced rod is the material used for the rod bushing. I know for a fact Comp star; uses a Ampco 45 bushing, that is harder than the Eagle and the Scat rods. You can also compare the sizing of the rods, with the rod bolts stretched to their proper length.You can do this with a bore gauge, but a better way to check it is on the rod gauge used on the rod honing equipment.

Another excellent rod out there is made by Howards ( Competition Products ) it's a parabolic beam rod, they are about the same price as Callies "Ultra".

I have taken stock 7/16 rods, installed new ARP bolts, re sized them, balanced them + - 2 grams and have used them in NA builds making 630 hp spinning 5800 rpms and this was in a heavy boat. So it's not necessary to over kill a build with rods that cost a lot, it all depends on the application. I have seem a 1000 hp engine using Oliver rods, Callies crank, Merlin block, lose a oil line at 6000 RPMs and destroy everything, except the heads and blower. That Oliver rod didn't disintegrate as a H beam would, and it tore up everything that came in contact with it.

If you send a Oliver rod back that has pin oiling, for new bushings, they actually can re machine the true center-center rod length back to it's correct length.

Not trying to argue, but it seems like valvetrain failure, especially dropped valves, also do an excellent job of wrecking everything in an engine, especially when the shrapnel gets sucked back into the intake and "shared" with the other cylinders. I worry about that in a boat engine even more than lower end failure, especially when you have the prevalence of leaky exhaust systems and reversion.

I think the gist of the entire thread is that any rod failure is catastrophic, but it's certainly good that all components need to matched to the application and quality components. It amazed me when we were building engines all the time how many folks would spend a ton on rotating assemblies and loose a motor because of some cheap retainer or buying some used set of roller rockers that fail. As Budman said, lots can go wrong and you should use the best you can afford at all stages.

We had some failures with Carrillo back then, but were told is was an isolated manufacturing run that was bad. They were excellent at helping us out though. Olivers are very nice. Actually had success with Eagles. To me, rod bolts are about as important as the rod in preventing failures, so don't cheap out on bolts!

Like CD said, my main point was a typical rod failure will leave little to nothing salvageable.