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Old 03-17-2016 | 03:33 PM
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BTW: I've never ever seen so many threads (like a bazzillion, quazzillion, almost infinatelium lol) and talk about lifters like I have with morels. Past say 6yrs the internet world has been littered with them. First handful of years was people pushing them and then subseuent years where people complaining. Type in Morel in your favorite search engine and you'll see pages and pages of links.

Maybe that is why companies are starting to offer others. ?

Just talking out loud.....but it is quite amazing.
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Old 03-17-2016 | 03:39 PM
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What other bbc hyd roller brands are capable of 7000 plus rpm and 575 plus of open pressure ?
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Old 03-17-2016 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
What other bbc hyd roller brands are capable of 7000 plus rpm and 575 plus of open pressure ?
When I was speaking of Morel I was referencing all but their limited travel. Yes, I know, one other Morel was shown to go high rpm's too.

To answer your question, that is a great question. The only other company I Have seen do real tests was Crane. I believe they went 250seat and almost 600lbs open and 7k on a BBC. I remember getting the Newsletter from them, and then all the talk. THis is exactly when Morels where starting to make a name in the industry.

So yes, other than possibly Crane, if one is looking for that many rpms and using big spring psi, until other info (tests and use) comes out, Morel seems like it.

On another note, not BBC related, GM has come out with lifters for the SBC that will go that high rpm, and Ford redesigned their check valve ball( to ceramic ) and achieved those rpms. In case anyone wants to know. LOL.
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Old 03-17-2016 | 03:57 PM
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When I think of morels, I get the munchies
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Old 03-17-2016 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Panther
I'm not an engineer but how do they figure that? If I'm pouring oil into and engine when it's cold the 20/50 pours like caramel while the 5/30 is still pretty thin. When priming engines in the winter I have noticed it puts much more force on the drill with 20/50 than it does with 10/30.

I do know that the Amsoil 15/50 is more like a 10/50 from what they told me. They said they use the 15 number more for marketing purposes. So I'm told...
I think my post was mid-leading. Agreed changing from say a 20-50 to 5-30 will in fact help. It's lighter and the kinematic viscosity is lower. However at the end of the day the 5-30 is piss water and no one will run that. So in comparing 5-50, 10-40, and 15-50 there is not a significant difference in kinematic viscosity. In my opinion definitely not enough to make the clatter go away. Our ticking doesn't go away until warm. It's likely that the oil temp is 120F minimum. The kinematic viscosity at that point is probably below 80cst. There is no weight oil out there that will get you there at cold and still offer protection at hot. It's a double edge sword. All I'm saying is for those that are suggesting lighter oil...don't think that will fix anything. It doesn't drop you low enough on the viscosity curve.
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Old 03-17-2016 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Unlimited jd
@ 0* the viscosity may be similar but what you need to know is what it is @ 60*. I don't believe you've ever started your boat when the oil temp was 0*c.
The kinematic viscocities we discussed were at 100F. They ranged from 100 to 130 cst.
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Old 03-17-2016 | 04:37 PM
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Some quotes from Bob for you guys


Originally Posted by rmbuilder
The two parts #’s referenced would be the set #’s 5288 (1988 Newer) & 5374 (1987 older). There were machining differences in the two parts, however they have recently revised the manufacture consolidated them into the one 5374 part #. That being said there are significant material, and dimensional contrasts separating the street performance/Race/Hi-RPM lifters. We do not recommend the street/performance lifters in any marine application largely due to the use of a .700” roller wheel vs. .750” for the Race/Hi-RPM versions. The new .903” Hi RPM versions will support a .810” wheel.

The race version are also .300” tall and a direct drop in on any MK IV, Gen V/VI,Dart or Merlin block.

The pricing listed in your post would seem a bit high.

Regards,
Bob
Originally Posted by rmbuilder
Don Z,

The Isky 3970-HYRT is the Isky private label Morel 4603 lifter. Their sizing tends to run true to OEM.

It is .300” long, to clear the raised lifter boss, and is a direct drop in for an OEM, Bowtie, Dart, or Merlin block.

The sweet spot for lifter to boss clearance is .0013”-.0019”. Lifter to bore tolerance, bore concentricity, and taper should be checked in every application.

Bob
Originally Posted by rmbuilder
Advantage,
With a 7/16-20 stud @ the fulcrum point there is .050” drop per full turn. A 5/8 turn results in a .031” drop at the fulcrum with a resultant drop of .049” at the lifter with a 1.7 rocker ratio. I have seen, in most instances that preload figure will yield audible noise.

One full turn yields a .050” drop at the fulcrum with a resulting drop of .079” at the lifter. A three quarter to one full turn will place the plunger at the proper height to purge the chamber and eliminate any audible mechanical sound. This figure is marginally past the half way point of available lifter travel.

These figures are for iron/aluminum, and will be ~ ¼ turn less with iron/iron combinations.

Bob
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Old 03-17-2016 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by SB
I pour oil in temps down to -20F. I can tell you all about cold pour from all weights and conv vs synthetic from, again -20F to 100F.

Yes, I use to have oil racks outside. And I found out real quick the advantage to synthetics when temps got down say under O*F.

Pour points, IMHO, has everything to do with cold start pumping rates.

Anyway, maybe I'm different, but I rarely start my boat under *65F-*70F.

And, when I have a hyd lifter euipped engine that is going to see say 5400+rpm, you bet I'm using a thicker oil like 20w/50 and at min good 15w40..

Lastly, I mentioned it earlier and I'm dead set on this one. Run the weight of oil your engine (clearances/use/temps/etc) wants / needs. Running a certain lower weight for a lifter kinda makes me say, WTF !

There, I said it, lol.
I agree. Last summer, I had enough 20w50 Valvoline full synthetic oil to do one engine, and enough 20w50 NON synthetic, to do the other engine. When pouring 12 quarts per engine one at a time, it was easy to see how much better the synthetic oil poured then the non synthetic, even at 75 degree temps when doing it back to back.

Being in the trucking/construction business, I have worked with alot of hydraulic equipment over the years. One example, is dump truck bodies. I can tell ya, when its 10 degrees outside, and the hydraulic oil is cold, it takes much longer for the dump body to raise/lower due to the simple fact, the fluid can't flow fast enough thru the bypass valves. When the oil is hot, things move much faster, as the hydraulic cylinders can "bleed out" quicker. The hyd lifter, operates on somewhat of the same principle I believe. I can see where 230 degree, lightweight oil, would be easier to bleed out of the lifter, than a heavier grade of oil, or at a cooler temperature.

I don't like the idea of running a thin oil to keep your lifter happy, if the rest of the engine or setup, isn't going to be happy with the thinner oil. If I can't get a lifter to function properly with my choice of say 20w50 oil, then I'll simply go back to solid lifters, which themselves have some perks. I love hydraulic maintainance free concept, but I think some of us tend to want to push that envelope , when in fact, a solid lifters reliability and functionality, would simply be a better fit. Would I want solids in a HP500 engine build, heck no. Would I entertain solids at the 900+HP 6000+ RPM every weekend poker running build, heck ya.

At the end of the day, there just aren't that many guys building their own 1000HP+ offshore engines, that are lasting long enough to take advantage of the whole "not lashing the valves" concept. Most are tearing engines down due to failures before they'd even have to lash the valves.
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Old 03-17-2016 | 05:15 PM
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^^^Well said. Totally on the same page^^^
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Old 03-17-2016 | 05:31 PM
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What's everyone recommending for a 500efi now a days? Everything I read said morel. Do we try the non hi rev? Or switch brands?
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