Oil temperature issue
08-26-2015 | 07:00 AM
#91
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From: NJ
I'll post my readings and results this weekend. Water dumps may have to be hooked up again. Not to concerned about the oil temp, I'm sure its going to be down but I am concerned about the water pressure. Fix one problem create another, Welcome to boating.LOL
08-26-2015 | 03:19 PM
#92
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From: Fredericksburg, Va
can tell you this been helping a friend with a 35 also, 535SC's kept burning 1 exhaust hose, coolers looked like yours, and it had factory strainers as well, did cure the problem, good luck on yours
08-26-2015 | 06:58 PM
#93
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From: Traverse City MI
So how do you burn off moisture..Water boils @ 212 F. seems way too cool for me. So if your running 170 ish and 190 ish you must have some white sludge somewhere maybe under the valve covers. An engine trying to generate heat with no oil or water thermostats will condensate.
There are professional Marine engine builders who have recommended running cooler temps then some OSO members think you need to "burn off condensation"
Edit:
I'm way behind on this thread! Lol
Lots of good posts on here though
Last edited by offshorexcursion; 08-26-2015 at 07:02 PM.
08-27-2015 | 05:51 AM
#95
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From: Olmsted Falls,Ohio Marblehead,Oh
I RARELY have issues with any condensation normally if at all it's in very beginning of the season... April-early MAy
I hear what your saying but from personal expierence not all engines condensate. I agree it's something to consider though.
There are professional Marine engine builders who have recommended running cooler temps then some OSO members think you need to "burn off condensation"
Edit:
I'm way behind on this thread! Lol
Lots of good posts on here though
There are professional Marine engine builders who have recommended running cooler temps then some OSO members think you need to "burn off condensation"
Edit:
I'm way behind on this thread! Lol
Lots of good posts on here though
08-27-2015 | 07:53 AM
#96
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From: On A Dirt Floor
If it took 212F for water to evaporate, we'd have no clouds.
edit in: but again, I agree, the hotter the oil temp the faster the water will evaporate and somewhere 212F or higher will turn into steam and more quickly remove itself if it's let out of the system (breathers/PCV)
edit in: but again, I agree, the hotter the oil temp the faster the water will evaporate and somewhere 212F or higher will turn into steam and more quickly remove itself if it's let out of the system (breathers/PCV)
Last edited by SB; 08-27-2015 at 07:55 AM.
08-27-2015 | 08:06 AM
#97
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From: Toronto, Canada
[ATTACH=CONFIG]544161[/ATTACH]The oil temp sensor is located on the remote oil filter. I believe that is before the cooler. Looking at the arrow on the remote oil filter housing, that oil line comes from the block, feeds the filter then heads toward the oil cooler then out of the cooler and back to the block. I am more concerned about the cruising 3400-3600 rpm oil temps more than WOT. I do more cruising than wot and if i run at wot its not for very long. After the last wot run I really didn't look at the temp, I was more concerned what was in front of me but i can say after stopping and idling for a few minutes the gauge was down around 200-210. No alarms or buzzers. I'll have to take note of the oil temps the next time i open her up.
08-27-2015 | 08:11 AM
#98
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From: Toronto, Canada
you likely wont see much more that a 20 degree jump from there if he's at 3500 to 4k rpm... its loaded for bear at that point...
08-27-2015 | 08:15 AM
#99
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From: NJ
Thanks for your input..If you look back a couples of pages you will see the reason for the high oil temps. I will be checking them this weekend with my clean coolers
08-27-2015 | 08:15 AM
#100
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From: Toronto, Canada
We seem to be getting off the subject here..Back to oil temps...I made custom fittings between the exhaust manifolds and the risers allowing me to dump some water overboard thru 2 fittings on each side of the boat. The hose size was 3/8". When that setup was connected my oil temp was 20 degrees less and my water pressure was 5-6 lbs less. reason being, the relief of water pressure allows the water to go thru the cooler faster removing more heat BUT...repeat...My Stainless risers are running a bit warmer at idle due to the reduction of water going thru them...so my question is. Is it ok for the SS risers to run warm at idle??...If so i will re-install the dump lines
