Yes haha

So how do you burn off moisture..Water boils @ 212 F. seems way too cool for me. So if your running 170 ish and 190 ish you must have some white sludge somewhere maybe under the valve covers. An engine trying to generate heat with no oil or water thermostats will condensate.

You're correct in your thinking. Counter-current flow is the best scenario for maximum heat exchange, there is no arguing that. On the other hand as you mentioned, you're passing a LOT of cool water through that exchanger and if sufficiently sized the efficiency loss to co-current flow will probably go unnoticed.

The stock oil cooler (HX) is a shell and tube setup, oil on the shell side and water in the tubes. As the HX gets older there can be mineral deposits from raw water on the tube's ID or varnishing from oil on the tube's OD, probably a little of both. This is known as tube fouling and will reduce the tube's ability to transfer heat. (On big HX's this decreased capacity is accounted for in the initial design stage.) So as one approaches the effective limit of the HX these small differences may begin to amount to something more significant.

Funny things happen when you ask something to operate continuously at 100% capacity. I think that's what OP is seeing here, and he probably needs a bigger cooler. Plus they look better on the bellhousing anyway.

/nerdiness

Only in spring I get it till about beginning in June if I don't run it hard, but I also run my boat much harder then most people do... I have zero condensation issues from June-nov.

So if my cooler is not big enough, then why when I install my water dumps (which i am going to do this week) my water pressure and my oil temperature drop. I believe the issue here is the Eddie Marine Risers are holding back too much water, creating pressure and not letting the water flow faster thru the cooler

You've changed it's operating conditions and now it's performing acceptably. Pressure is resistance to flow here so you're indirectly seeing an increase in water flow and thus an increase in heat transfer. This is especially true because the impeller isn't a positive displacement pump, it's flow rate is directly, though not linearly, correlated to discharge pressure.

You opened up the flow path, efficiency increased, temps came down.

My sensor is in the oil filter which is before the cooler

Thank Cole2534 This is what i have been trying to explain here ....I only said this 10 times....With the water dumps the water flows thru the cooler at a faster rate lowering the oil temps..NO BIGGER COOLER NEEDED..The faster the water flows thru the cooler the more heat gets extracted. .But this makes my Stainless riser run a bit warmer at idle with idle water pressure.. At this point i say let the ss riser run warmer...its not going to melt..

Eddie, If you increase the water flow thru the cooler it will extract more heat from the oil. I did this by dumping some water between the exhaust manifolds and the risers. Temps will drop.

So in my case i have high water pressure, high oil temperature, all because my water flow thru the cooler,engine,exhaust, can't exit fast enough and is being held back by the 3 small holes at the end of my exhaust risers. How much water pressure is needed to cool..I'm sure you don't need 16lbs @ 3200 rpms and over 20-25 or more @ wot. So the Merc pump is pumping more water than the engines, hose size, fitting size water outlet sizes and in turn is slowing down the flow increasing pressure increasing oil temperature because the water outlets are too small and can't get out fast enough