Detonated piston & blew head gasket. Now what?
#51
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I'd probably still be boating if it was a 10k engine. But, in a few weeks, months, or maybe next season I'd be exactly where I am now except with less coin in the bank and maybe I wouldn't be getting criticized for not building a 10k motor to put in a 5k runabout. I messed up on the tune and/or overloaded the prop. It didn't fail because of lower quality components. It may have failed sooner but it would have eventually done the same thing with a forged piston. Hyper is strong enough for 350-400 HP as long as I tune it right this time around.
I'm posting in the DIY, budget section from now on. LOL
I'm posting in the DIY, budget section from now on. LOL
Last edited by Gannz; 08-26-2016 at 10:38 AM.
#52
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How about stellite coated valves... a decent compromise between basic stainless and inconel?
Enginetech is the only mfg I've found that has stellite for vortec heads. Good or junk mfg?
Or just go with Ferrea 5000 or 6000's?
Is stellite maybe what I have now? Read that they were stock in some heavy duty GM truck engines and that was the donor for my rebuilt long block.
Enginetech is the only mfg I've found that has stellite for vortec heads. Good or junk mfg?
Or just go with Ferrea 5000 or 6000's?
Is stellite maybe what I have now? Read that they were stock in some heavy duty GM truck engines and that was the donor for my rebuilt long block.
Last edited by Gannz; 08-29-2016 at 11:04 AM.
#53
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From: Woodstock, Georgia
After torquing the screw in studs, take a center punch at the stud base against the threads,hit with a light tap to help lock the stud in place. High heat and rpm's can cause screw in to loosen.Lock tight sometimes give a false sense of security..
#54
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The rocker studs? I was just gonna cross thread em. Getrdunn recommends that method. LOL
I was going to do the ARP screw ins until I learned the bosses need to be machined. I can do it myself with the cutter but $80 for studs & $80 for cutter or more for machine work really seems like overkill for my mild cam/springs. Stock pressed in are supposed to be good for 350 lbs and my springs are only 300 lbs. I do want a little extra security so I'm going to pin em.
Good tip on the punch with screw ins. Thanks for looking out.
I was going to do the ARP screw ins until I learned the bosses need to be machined. I can do it myself with the cutter but $80 for studs & $80 for cutter or more for machine work really seems like overkill for my mild cam/springs. Stock pressed in are supposed to be good for 350 lbs and my springs are only 300 lbs. I do want a little extra security so I'm going to pin em.
Good tip on the punch with screw ins. Thanks for looking out.
#55
What is the chance the top ring end gap was just a little too tight on that piston. Lean condition, combustion temps go up, piston temp goes way up and sticks the top ring cracking that piece off the top of the piston.
#56
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From: Lake Winnipesaukee, NH
Whether that caused it or not the rings HAVE TO be opened to a marine n/a gap.
OP when you do the gaps be very fussy to file perpendicular to the cylinder walls and be parallel in your gap. I'd spend $10 on a set of go/no-go feeler gauges. They are very slightly wedge shaped. Also be certain there are no burrs. And reinstall the rings correct sides up. It all counts.
Get your ring gap information from your ring and piston manufacturers. Use rings the piston company authorizes. Get your ring gap factors then do the math about ten times to make sure it's correct. The ring gaps are dependent on piston material, ring material, and type of use.
In this case you are n/a marine.
Sorry if I am saying stuff you already know, but if some first timer comes along later it could help them.
OP when you do the gaps be very fussy to file perpendicular to the cylinder walls and be parallel in your gap. I'd spend $10 on a set of go/no-go feeler gauges. They are very slightly wedge shaped. Also be certain there are no burrs. And reinstall the rings correct sides up. It all counts.
Get your ring gap information from your ring and piston manufacturers. Use rings the piston company authorizes. Get your ring gap factors then do the math about ten times to make sure it's correct. The ring gaps are dependent on piston material, ring material, and type of use.
In this case you are n/a marine.
Sorry if I am saying stuff you already know, but if some first timer comes along later it could help them.
Last edited by NHGuy; 09-18-2016 at 04:06 AM.
#59
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Whether that caused it or not the rings HAVE TO be opened to a marine n/a gap.
OP when you do the gaps be very fussy to file perpendicular to the cylinder walls and be parallel in your gap. I'd spend $10 on a set of go/no-go feeler gauges. They are very slightly wedge shaped. Also be certain there are no burrs. And reinstall the rings correct sides up. It all counts.
Get your ring gap information from your ring and piston manufacturers. Use rings the piston company authorizes. Get your ring gap factors then do the math about ten times to make sure it's correct. The ring gaps are dependent on piston material, ring material, and type of use.
In this case you are n/a marine.
Sorry if I am saying stuff you already know, but if some first timer comes along later it could help them.
OP when you do the gaps be very fussy to file perpendicular to the cylinder walls and be parallel in your gap. I'd spend $10 on a set of go/no-go feeler gauges. They are very slightly wedge shaped. Also be certain there are no burrs. And reinstall the rings correct sides up. It all counts.
Get your ring gap information from your ring and piston manufacturers. Use rings the piston company authorizes. Get your ring gap factors then do the math about ten times to make sure it's correct. The ring gaps are dependent on piston material, ring material, and type of use.
In this case you are n/a marine.
Sorry if I am saying stuff you already know, but if some first timer comes along later it could help them.
I know the gaps need to be dead on but I didn't know there were different specs for marine na. I also didn't know about those feelers but I'll get a set. This thread's already pretty long so I'll start a build thread soon. Still getting the shop organized/set up but the motor is out and I'm about to tear it apart.
#60
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Didn't know they have reward points but I wish I knew about this sooner because I buy from them all the time. I googled it but only saw speed points for purchases made in their retail store. I also don't see anything like that for using their speed card. How do you get reward points?



