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Wow I heard of msd issues. But dam.

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Old 09-27-2016 | 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by SB
Yup, Procomp doesn't like to F*k people either.. Look how their old boxes where made inside the box until they got caught. They also totally copied MSD's exterior of the box, and got nailed incourt.
So, what you are saying is... Procomp copied a s#itty MSD and made it work and look like an MSD and got sued in court. lol
Only if MSD copied Procomp. MSD is a terrible product.
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Old 09-27-2016 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by SB
That is correct because of being filled with epoxy.
Well that's sad to hear. I sent one in 3 or 4 years ago and they fixed it. I figured all they really wanted was the case and is why any repair was the same price. The guts probably cost 3 bucks.
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Old 10-03-2016 | 08:47 PM
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I don't know the latest skinny, but the last I knew, Daytona Censor was a good ignition box product.
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Old 06-30-2017 | 07:21 AM
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I need to resurrect this old thread. I'm getting the boat ready for the summer (I know it's late but been busy with stuff) I removed the distributor cap like I do every year and checked inside. Found the normal (for MSD) rust inside and build-up inside the cap on the pick-up points. Mine doesn't look anyway near as bad as the ones shown here. The distributor is about 15 years old. I replace the cap and rotor every other year and clean it in between. I called the MSD tech line and specifically told the gentleman on the other end this was a marine application. His "fix" was to drill (2) holes in the cap 180* apart just below the rotor so the reluctor wheel would act like a fan! This would move the air around inside and prevent the ionization. I can't see doing this in the bilge of a boat!!!
If I use one of the spray on rust inhibitors mentioned hear, can you also spray inside the cap to help prevent that build-up also?
By the way, I switched from Merc Tbolt 4 set-up because the brass bushing inside the distributor shaft would wear out every couple of years and I would have to replace the whole thing.
Thanks,
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Old 06-30-2017 | 11:34 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by David Stotz
His "fix" was to drill (2) holes in the cap 180* apart just below the rotor so the reluctor wheel would act like a fan! This would move the air around inside and prevent the ionization. I can't see doing this in the bilge of a boat!!!
Funny this should come up now...i was cleaning out my garage over the weekend and have like 4 T-bolt distributors siting around....i was looking at one of them and noticed two holes about 1/8" in size, one on each side of the shaft under the reluctor wheel! I thought to myself this cant be factory but the others had it as well.....not sure how old these distributors are though....
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Old 06-30-2017 | 01:24 PM
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I just looked at an old Merc cap I had and found it has a 90* brass fitting on the side that would vent air from inside the cap? Maybe MSD is correct.

Wally, could the holes you're talking about be for oiling?
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Old 06-30-2017 | 01:43 PM
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The holes i saw were in the base of the distributor itself..under the rotor....not the cap...i know what you are talking about the brass vent on the side...all the caps i had had those installed....i will have to look closer at the distributors tonight and take some pics..
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Old 06-30-2017 | 03:53 PM
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Only my GM looked worse...
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