Some Saturday Motor Fun
 

Got most of the build done today just have the valvetrain to do. This is my first boat motor build and it was a little frustrating at times as it has 088 heads on a Mark IV block with factory roller cam plate (that I have never dealt with) so I needed a Mark VI timing chain because of the stepped cam. All a great learning experience and really confused the guys at Summit. Motor is a 548 with 10:1 compression. I picked the color as I always have black motors in my drag cars so this was fun and matches the boat.
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will follow your build!!!
big valve cover!!!!

What boat is it going in and what cam? Looks nice.

Boat is a 1990 30 ft advantage, the cam was a crane but my machinist sent it out and had it reground.
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Finally got around to getting the valve train installed. I ended up going with the .750 wheel morels and am very happy with the comp rockers arms I chose. Haven't ever installed a hydraulic cam only solid rollers so adjusting the valves took a little getting used to. I used my 1/2 in drill to prime it for about an hour while I went through and adjusted the valves twice hoping the lifters got pumped up all the way. Going to the dyno hopefully next week and will post some numbers.
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Your pushrods look a bit short. The pattern looks really wide on the valve stem. Centered, but too wide, in my opinion.

Those retainers. Are those the retainers that match that spring? they look awfully small.

Before I got to your post I was looking at and concerned about the same. I always try and achieve inner third of the stem. The retainers look small. Yes. Not sure what's going on there but... I was going to compliment OP on his cleanliness. Also OP I like to silicon those same gaskets to the valve cover. Even though their ridgid they still have a way of slipping out in certain places. Nice to always have them attached to valve cover also while always going back in same place. What size are your pushrods?

I also commented on the retainers to my machinist and he said they would be fine. The pushrods are about the only parts I reused. I do have have the adjustable pushrods to measure for correct length. I will break them out and measure one intake and exhaust.
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Measurements would be good. Just curious if they jog my memory on similar builds. Also the locator under the springs might be worth checking also. Not to panic but seen springs have over .080 side play on locator and shop say was fine. Not... your retainers might be deceiving however just looks like only have your spring is covered but have seen before. Might be worth popping a spring off and just checking to make sure your retainers and locators are correct for the spring. Don't want any size to side play. Also check all you installed heights. Only take you 15 minutes. If you don't have the right tools just cut a piece of wire even and go around and ck of of them to make sure. If you don't have a spring removed tool they are very worthy of having. I have a comp that works great and also a matco but like the comp better. Pretty cheap tool that really comes in handy.

What intake you u using? Not a bad idea to lay a piece of cardboard in place of your manifold gaskets are also and tighten down a little and pull intake back off and see how close you are. Most single planes you can dry fit and do a visual with flash light or bore scope. These little things are very worthy of doing. You probably already know but just wanna throw it out there anyway.

I did do many test fits with the intake and kinda have a procedure due to the many times I have taken my manifold off my drag race motor. I do have a few different valve spring removers so that is not an issue.

I am running a Victor Jr. with an 850 for now due to the altitude. If I take it down to sea level at the Delta or something I have a dominator I want to try out.

Good looking build , have one similar but went with a bow tie block so besides the cam nose had to chase down a imco timing cover , that was more than 8 yrs. ago . Old thing still fires off and runs all day , good cheap power

What size domes on the pistons ? Is this to be raw water cooled?

I believe they are -10CC and will be raw water cooled
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Finally got the motor off the stand and all parts off and on needed for the dyno this week. Anyone have any guesstimates on the HP? I am hoping for over 600 and close to 650.
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Retainers do look scary. Hope all goes well on the dyno.

never mind

i have a number in my head but i will wait for the dyno results.i think the gm heads might hurt you.

I'll take a crack at it. 620 @ 6,350
HR.correct installed 2 deg advanced.

I think your heads will be your holding you back some but can always strap some one down the road.


Dyno headers?

I wonder what has been done to those heads , did you go with 2.250 intakes? The exhaust side is where mine gave up on flow.

600 at 6000

the intake runners look shiney,the exhaust port is what kills the chevy head.

Not a huge differenc btwn the two. Seems like merc opened up their performance engines to 2.25 though but didn't make a huge flow difference. They start to fall off some at .600 but really noticeable at .650. So personally I think his cam lift is right in there but certainly wouldn't have gone anymore. I would imagine heads are close to stock or OP would have mentioned. That would certainly change things up a bit 15-20 hp?

I think she's gonna make more TQ than HP.

Maximum valve lift, isn't really limited to where the head stops flowing more cfm, at peak lift.

What matters, is what the head flows, at the valves "curtain area" . If he has a 2.19, that curtain area, where you really want the head to flow well, would be at .548 lift. If a 2.25 valve is used, than it be .563 lift. 2.30, then it be .575 lift.

At peak lift of .630, the valve is only there for a C hair of time. Its pretty irrelevant. Where the valve spends more time, esp at peak piston demand, is what counts. The valve spends way more time between .200 and .600, than it does at .630.

As I have said before, the camshaft timing, and valve diameter, are what control velocity. A small port with big valve, can have worse low rpm power, than a larger port, with smaller valve.

The valve diamter must be relative to the CSA. This is why, AFR supplies a 2.19 valve, in their 265 ovals, and a 2.3 valve, in their 325/335 heads. If you stick a 2.300 valve in the AFR 265 head, you can kiss some low speed torque away.

Gonna be a nice conservative solid build though either way. Gonna have TQ that's for sure. If you look at gelners 540/650 hp package 540, dart 310's, dart intake, 1050 carb/4150

Yes they have 2.25 intakes. I agree on the heads but I decided to use what I had to cut down on costs. Still spent a lot because of good parts.

I'd like to comment on this but will keep quiet. Like mentioned earlier or in other thread is how you reach your goals it's assured to be debatable but doesn't mean one way or the other is right or wrong.

Almost as much power as Arcticfriends 8.5:1 , chinese intake, 4150 carb, with 335 AFR's, with a blower cam is making. With a 3% correction factor too :)

I can reduce valve size in a bbc build in the dyno simulator, and gain low end torque, at the expense of upper rpm power. Seems to make sense, as thats why Gm used small valves in their tow engines. Whoever wrote the simulation software, must also be aware of the net result of valve diamter and velocity changes

My machinist is a great guy and worked for Larry at EPD heads until it closed. When he does my heads he really does not tell me much besides "I cleaned them up" LOL. I really do not think he did much besides port matching and he also said he cleaned up the bowls some for whatever that is worth. I also saw on another post someone was talking exhaust for a 540. I have the IMCO Thumper on my setup, and yes will have dyno headers. I am hoping these will be fine for some family boating. This was built for fun and to last. This is my first boat of any kind I have owned and I can tell I am in trouble as I am looking towards the next boat already.

That seems like a pretty cool software package, is it expensive

Not really. I have prob around 300-400 invested in these software programs.

The latest camshaft software , can really demonstate head velocity characteristics, by adjusting valve size, throat size, valve lift, etc.

Sure seems like you'll have a fun reliable boat. Nice looking also. Appears you have all your ducks in a row. Just keep an eye for any reversion.

Oh my ! :lolhit:

You caught it right before I went back and edited it. I thought I got away with it. Guess not. Oops

Was hoping to post some dyno results by now but had a little scare Monday morning. They called me and said 3 holes had 0 compression and 5 had 160 lbs. Not the best way to start off your Monday morning. So finally yesterday I found out 3 of the lifters were pumped up or something and were keeping the valves open. I have been cringing at what I had done wrong or I had bent valves for some reason. I probably turned this engine over by hand a few dozen times just checking things. The lifters were the Howards 91162 which I believe are the Morels just re-branded? These are the .750 roller hydraulic race version. Now I have never ran a hydraulic cam has anyone ever had this happen before? I live in Sparks with a Summit so my wife was able to go and exchange them for a brand new set as the motor is on the dyno. That was a positive.

is it okay now, maybe the valve lash was off

Just got news motor is running great and they are breaking it in now as we speak. Hope to get some information this afternoon.

Well just got the numbers and am very happy with the outcome. 621 peak HP and 670 peak torque.http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps9aq3owmb.jpg
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Nice numbers. Its a stump puller.