Good oil thermostats??
04-29-2017 | 06:27 AM
#72
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 14,100
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From: On A Dirt Floor
With recirculating pump system it is much easier to keep water and oil temps in control and more consistent.....when in the North.
04-29-2017 | 06:57 AM
#73
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Joined: May 2009
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From: Chicago, IL; Onekama, MI
Circulating pump. I ran a crossover once and it was a pain to get any consistency with the temps. I will happily give up 8 hp to have consistent water temps.
05-01-2017 | 12:07 AM
#75
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 190
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From: Annapolis, Md
my motor ALWAYS had moisture under the valve cover cap before I ran an oil stat - two 6mph zones not long before hitting home base and or the boat ramp always made sure of that. Nothing since adding a stat. I have a sensor in the pan, and on the filter housing. Both read the same, and I've been leaving the wire on the filter mount sensor. The first large oil cooler I ran was the one with the stat located in a bypass tube on top of it. Oil temps were too high with that setup, and just yanked it after I couldn't figure out why - seemed like a great design....
05-03-2017 | 03:59 PM
#76
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 190
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From: Annapolis, Md
I ran Hardin Marine's for the last 4 years or so - part #625-7703 for IV's and 7704 for 5&6 blocks. Liked its simplicity, location, and the fact that it probably flows really
well with it's 3/4" NPT ports. Worked great as far as flow and thermostatic control - Oil temps stayed up through my longest 6mph zones, and for the first time ever high oil temps were never a concern no matter how hard I ran,, or for how long - sucked because I couldn't get the washered bolt up through the unit to stop dripping oil. Washer's seemed too hard. like copper instead of brass?. Even tried valve lapping compound to lap the parts together - lived with it in the end, and apparently Hardin has since changed something, not sure what, since they had a lot of complaints when they first came out, and price is lower now. I am no longer using it, partially for that reason, but more so because it puts 4 large AN fittings between my oil pan and the top of my stringer, and is a PIA to get those lines on/off to pull motor, even though only two have to be removed - just two tight in that area on my boat. A remote unit will leave only two fittings there, and at a better angle. Twin engine setup may not have that issue.
well with it's 3/4" NPT ports. Worked great as far as flow and thermostatic control - Oil temps stayed up through my longest 6mph zones, and for the first time ever high oil temps were never a concern no matter how hard I ran,, or for how long - sucked because I couldn't get the washered bolt up through the unit to stop dripping oil. Washer's seemed too hard. like copper instead of brass?. Even tried valve lapping compound to lap the parts together - lived with it in the end, and apparently Hardin has since changed something, not sure what, since they had a lot of complaints when they first came out, and price is lower now. I am no longer using it, partially for that reason, but more so because it puts 4 large AN fittings between my oil pan and the top of my stringer, and is a PIA to get those lines on/off to pull motor, even though only two have to be removed - just two tight in that area on my boat. A remote unit will leave only two fittings there, and at a better angle. Twin engine setup may not have that issue.
05-04-2017 | 12:46 AM
#77
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Joined: Oct 2013
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From: SF Bay Area
I've been having trouble getting the 3/4" nip fitting to not leak on my Hardin bulkhead. Is this the same issue that your having on the stats? I've tried new fittings with gorilla torque with no luck.
05-04-2017 | 06:57 AM
#78
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,640
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From: MI
From my buddy Bill, made a couple calls this was his info on pan readings...
"Guy I know at ilmor said keep oil between 210-230 on temp on endurance engine. Temp either taken in oil pan on wet sump, or in tank on dry sump"
"Called Teague marine. Tim, guy there told me you only need 90-100 temp water and 150 oil! ����"
"Guy I know at ilmor said keep oil between 210-230 on temp on endurance engine. Temp either taken in oil pan on wet sump, or in tank on dry sump"
"Called Teague marine. Tim, guy there told me you only need 90-100 temp water and 150 oil! ����"
05-04-2017 | 07:46 AM
#79
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: chicago
Ive been running mine cold water, no water stats, 180-210 oil temp. Oil creeps to 210 on hard runs over 5500rpm . Normally sits at 180.
A local guy had some teague 1100s or 1200s , and i believe they were set up to run cool water, and cool oil temps. I dont think teague wants any heat in the engines.
My biggest thing about oil temps, is when you start getting up there in oil temp, your valve spring temp goes up as well. The valve spring pressures drop a good amount of pressure when they get hot. Last thing you want is running along at 6000rpm, start losing spring pressure, and as a result, loss of valvetrain control.
I bet theres alot of guys who have had valvetrain separation, and blamed it on lack of spring pressure. But , were running oil temps of 250*, and didnt care because the interweb told them their synthetic oil is good for 350 degrees.
A local guy had some teague 1100s or 1200s , and i believe they were set up to run cool water, and cool oil temps. I dont think teague wants any heat in the engines.
My biggest thing about oil temps, is when you start getting up there in oil temp, your valve spring temp goes up as well. The valve spring pressures drop a good amount of pressure when they get hot. Last thing you want is running along at 6000rpm, start losing spring pressure, and as a result, loss of valvetrain control.
I bet theres alot of guys who have had valvetrain separation, and blamed it on lack of spring pressure. But , were running oil temps of 250*, and didnt care because the interweb told them their synthetic oil is good for 350 degrees.
