Highest OIl Temps that are safe
#42
After build was running 20W50 but was only reading 25 psi and would dip slightly lower when coming off plane. Working with another it was decided this season to try 50W to get the pressure up. Installed a mechanical gauge Tee with the electrical gauge. Found a 15 higher reading with mechanical gauge, so figured a 100 psi sender was installed instead of an 80 psi one. Installed a 80 psi gauge and now the gauge reads within 2 psi of the mechanical.
With the gauge offset issue discovered and pressures running so high I'm changing back to 20W50 before I take it back out. Going to reinstall O2 sensors and measure AFR to determine if this is also an issue.
Reading temps at the filter head before the cooler
The old cooler was 2x15 and the new is 2x21 and looks like this one
With the gauge offset issue discovered and pressures running so high I'm changing back to 20W50 before I take it back out. Going to reinstall O2 sensors and measure AFR to determine if this is also an issue.
Reading temps at the filter head before the cooler
The old cooler was 2x15 and the new is 2x21 and looks like this one
So after you make sure about the cooler inlet sizes, you need to check the cooling system. With a 140* Stat, you should be around that number. Make sure your impellor is putting out what it should, and backflush your engine and cooler to make sure there is no crap in the water passages. You said you had EFI, so as I had carb, some of this may be incorrect or may have to have the tune adjusted for. I ran water temps right around 125-130. I forced it there by throwing away the Tstat and using Moroso restrictors. No restriction never got me above 100, I ended up with the middle size one. The other thing you can do is drill 2-3 holes in your Tstat to let more water through. Again, I had a Carb. You may be stuck with running higher temps for the EFI. Someone here with efi can tell you that answer.
As was aready said, having the wrong A/F numbers can increase temps quickly. If the computer has been "tuned" have someone that knows what they are doing look at it and make sure your A/F numbers are correct.
If you are running a good Full Syn oil it can handle crazy high temps. Over 300. Not telling you thats okay, just what the oil can take before it loses viscosity. Your 80 psi is crazy high. The old 10 psi per 1000 is fine. I ran around 60 psi turning 5500+ for 6 years and never missed a beat. There is no way that you should need 50w to make pressure unless your bearing clearances are too wide. 10-40 or 25-40 should be fine.
Last edited by Zone 5; 05-28-2017 at 12:39 AM.
#43
Just my two cents, I would check your oil level relative to crankshaft, if over filled you will whip the oil with the crankshaft causing high oil temps, also I would also check the oil bypass valve make sure you have the right one because that will bypass oil filter and oil cooler if it's the wrong tension. I believe the marine version is 18 lbs.
Good luck
Good luck
My bypass valve has been blocked off.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]567774[/ATTACH]
Will keep investigating to find the issue
#44
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iTrader: (3)
Lets say you compare two engine setups. Both the same engines, just rigged differently.
One engine, has 1.25 line from pickup to sea pump, to cooler, to engine. It has a aftermarket thermostat housing, with -10 AN lines feeding the exhaust.
Other engine has 1.25 line from pickup to sea pump, to cooler, to engine. This one has 1 inch or -16AN lines feeding the exhaust. For arguments sake, lets assume they both are running crossovers.
The engine with -10 lines, may show 20psi of water psi, while the one with -16 lines, may show 10psi of water pressure in the system. However, the one with -16 lines, is moving more water, thru the cooler, the engine, and the exhaust, therefore doing a better job of cooling things.
There is always the argument that if water moves too fast , it wont cool as well. Any engineer of heat exhangers will argue that. More flow/volume simply works better. The only reason this argument came about, was in cars, where if you removed the thermostat, and had too small of a radiator, the water may not spend enough time in the radiator, to be cooled down. In raw water cooled boats, we are not recirculating cooling water. We have an unlimited supply. Plus, we are not using air for an exchange. Reducing water flow, would be like the car guy saying "we have too much airflow past the radiator!"
#45
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Its hard to see,but is there a bypass valve in the oil in passage of the oil filter pad?if so,need to remove it.
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I'CE (04-30-2021)
#46
water psi is a touchy subject
There is anything in the hole, had my head down there to make sure before installing the new remote filter head
#47
Starting to think I have a ticking time bomb. Have a high volume oil pump so that's good with the HP I'm producing, but if I continue to develop 80 PSI oil pressure running hard, I'm going to spin a bearing or blow the oil filter apart. From what I understand is to use a high volume pump you need to increase the bearing clearance and if the was not done then I have an issue.
#48
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iTrader: (1)
All that over 80 psi ? Nah.