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The umbrella with table on an auger does well toohttps://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b0db98645.jpeg |
Originally Posted by mggdoors
(Post 4693108)
I grew up in Needles CA. Hottest place in the US. Literally 125-130 normal. I got so used to it that I laughed in Iraq when I seen people whining about 110. Now I own garage door company in Phoenix. 115-120 outside. 140-160 inside where I work. Like working inside an easy bake oven. Lol. You are a tough sum*****, Thank you for your service.!.:ernaehrung004:..sounds like where you grew up/lived helped prep you well. :) |
Originally Posted by SB
(Post 4693110)
those people where probably from my area or another very northern state...lol.....
You are a tough sum*****, Thank you for your service.!.:ernaehrung004:..sounds like where you grew up/lived helped prep you well. :) |
Took the pig out on 4th and today. Was unable to do top speed runs with kids onboard but on 4th ran 4 blades with spacer install and 4 coolers, 6 people. Ran it to 70. Hard to get on plane but revved decently on acceleration. Today ran with spacer removed which placed drive 1” up and 5 blades. Glue to the water. Ran it at 6.5 trim and boat refused to free up. 4k rpm 60mph 21% slip. Have video of it passing my buddy but need to figure out how to upload it. Last time we ran it with 5 blades we documented 3500 at 58 @ 13% slip. Stern felt better in corners with 5 blades. Morel of the story is I am correct in my thought process of needing more bow lift. Raising the drives made it worse. Max5 15.25 here I come. |
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60mph pass. Way too much boat in water. Trimmed to the moon. 5 blades. 1” above bottom
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the problem is that you removed a lot of weight from the rear and now the center of gravity is too far forward so you are having to trim way too high to try to pick up the nose. the problem is that you can get in big trouble if the air does get under it. all cats are a balancing act, the air in the tunnel is trying to pick the boat up and the drives should be trying to push it back down. no cat that is balanced right should ever be trimmed above neutral and are usually down just a hair when running hard. if you have room throw a couple of bags of sand in the rear corners at the transom and see what it does. that will tell you for sure that the CG is off.
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Originally Posted by compedgemarine
(Post 4695696)
the problem is that you removed a lot of weight from the rear and now the center of gravity is too far forward so you are having to trim way too high to try to pick up the nose. the problem is that you can get in big trouble if the air does get under it. all cats are a balancing act, the air in the tunnel is trying to pick the boat up and the drives should be trying to push it back down. no cat that is balanced right should ever be trimmed above neutral and are usually down just a hair when running hard. if you have room throw a couple of bags of sand in the rear corners at the transom and see what it does. that will tell you for sure that the CG is off.
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Max5 15.25 29p vs Cutting Edge 4 Blade 30p. Max5 are about 1/8 bigger. First thing to notice is blade position on barrel. They are an inch further up the barrel. Holy rake. So perty. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...79159d46d.jpeghttps://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...e36d0b5ae.jpeg |
Weight difference 4 blade 13.2 lbs. max5 15.2. Not horrible. Going to test with pvs out to start |
here you go,,just in case you want a little more.:D
https://www.enginelabs.com/news/1200...no-for-5-mins/ |
Originally Posted by sutphen 30
(Post 4696390)
here you go,,just in case you want a little more.:D
https://www.enginelabs.com/news/1200...no-for-5-mins/ |
Originally Posted by sutphen 30
(Post 4696390)
here you go,,just in case you want a little more.:D
https://www.enginelabs.com/news/1200...no-for-5-mins/ |
Tested max5 props today. Gained 5 mph at 4k. New props 29p 65mph old props 30p 60mph. Fixed to cg issue. Boat runs amazing. Attitude is just right |
Any updates, top speed?
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Originally Posted by Wildman_grafix
(Post 4702747)
Any updates, top speed?
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Oil
Very cool thread. Thanks for sharing. What oil are you using? |
That is awesome!! Congrats on a cool build and thanks for sharing the info!
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Oil is currently rotella 15-40. Will be switching to 10-40 possibly 10-30. Most likely good plain ol mobil 1. |
Originally Posted by TracyRR
(Post 4704629)
That is awesome!! Congrats on a cool build and thanks for sharing the info!
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Just a heads up. First issue yesterday. Very last run of the day the crank driven water pump, Johnson F6B-9, the impeller cover came off. Screws backed out revealing the impeller and alot of water. Got drivers engine lil warm at 210 but still not crazy. Got to run the **** out of the bilge though. Did destroy 4 Alpine PDX amps on the back of the rear seat as well. Friendly reminder to check your crap. Happy boating.
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Ok boys. Round 2 has commenced. Some updates first. On our original dyno run we had that flat spot that came in around 5200 and just killed power. We ran it for the season and then did some investigating after we repulled them. Turns out the ******* that did my cylinder heads did not shim the valve springs. Some (alot) of the seat pressure were in the 120 range. Can we say unstable? Now for the good stuff. While I have the heads off we are upgrading the lifters from ls7 to johnson short travel linkbars and manton 3/8 .130 custom pushrods, titanium retainers, and possibly yella terras in same ratio. The heads will be getting kissed to push compression from 10.6 to 11 and head porting will also be taking place. The shop doing the heads is claiming 360 cfm compared to 320 stock and only going up 10cc on port volume. Other minor details will be putting the std pressure oil spring in to reduce oil pressure from current 100. Dyno in month month and halfish. Place your bets. Here is previous dyno chart for referencehttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...3f9d34882.jpeg |
120lbs on the seat isn't necessarily bad, if the valvespring frequency is on point. NASCAR engines of years past ran springs with seated pressures within ten pounds of that. I actually think it's in the right ballpark, if the rate and damping are appropriate.
PM me if you'd like to talk further on your valvetrain. |
Slight change of plans. Ordered some zl1 superchargers, holley terminator efi, and having chambers on heads softened as well as everything previously listed. Aiming for 8psi to keep it simple. |
Originally Posted by NautiSouth
(Post 4715502)
120lbs on the seat isn't necessarily bad, if the valvespring frequency is on point. NASCAR engines of years past ran springs with seated pressures within ten pounds of that. I actually think it's in the right ballpark, if the rate and damping are appropriate.
PM me if you'd like to talk further on your valvetrain. |
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...beddd752c.jpeg
Zl1 superchargers being installed |
Originally Posted by mggdoors
(Post 4721899)
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...beddd752c.jpeg
Zl1 superchargers being installed |
Originally Posted by Wildman_grafix
(Post 4721961)
Can those be used with a carb?
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Originally Posted by mggdoors
(Post 4721996)
No. An intercooler lid goes on top. These are efi only. I’m using Holley efi.
This should be interesting, keep posting. |
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6b823738f.jpeg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...56a2dcdac.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...43b9e80a3.jpeg So the port work is mostly cleanup. They went from 260cc to 267cc runners. Also reshaped the chambers. Notice the area right behind the spark plug. We shortened and laid back the quench pad to slow fuel burn. Ferrea 6000 intakes. Super alloy exhaust valves |
Just ordered new spec cams to compliment the little 1.9L blowers
230/250 120+5 .621/.595 overlap 0 ivo 0 ivc 50 evo 70 evc 0 Needless to say we won’t be wasting any boost. |
I've been following your thread. Looks like it's no longer a budget build. :D It's appreciated that you post all your trials and errors, despite getting beat up on here sometimes. The way I see it is, you've only posted what you think you'll achieve with a certain setup, and whether you achieved your goal or not, you've graciously accepted all the feedback, good and bad. Your thread has been good info for me. Thanks.
I pulled my 502 and have been building a Procharged LS3, (for a few years now :(). I have a thread on another forum and along with my successes, I've posted my mistakes as well and I've made a bunch of claims that show how naive I am. But hey, if someone else can learn from my mistakes, great. I have a couple questions. Why did you use a remote thermostat before instead of the one with the water pump? I'm using the stock circulation pump, (has built in bypass) and plan to use the stock thermostat. I've read a few times that a spacer is needed for the driver coupler. Are you using one? I'm using a flywheel and my measurements show I'll be about 1/4" shorter than previously, but I don't think that's going to be an issue, so I'm skipping the spacer. My plan all along was to use the stock cam. I know next to nothing about cam specs, but my research led me to believe the stock overlap wouldn't cause me reversion. After finding this thread and seeing the cam discussions, I'm now seriously beginning to question my decision. I absolutely do not want to go with dry exhaust. I want my boat as quiet as possible and I'm already ditching my Q&Q, (but keeping the Corsa mufflers). Any thoughts on the stock cam? Looking forward to your updates. |
Originally Posted by yeller
(Post 4723359)
I've been following your thread. Looks like it's no longer a budget build. :D It's appreciated that you post all your trials and errors, despite getting beat up on here sometimes. The way I see it is, you've only posted what you think you'll achieve with a certain setup, and whether you achieved your goal or not, you've graciously accepted all the feedback, good and bad. Your thread has been good info for me. Thanks.
I pulled my 502 and have been building a Procharged LS3, (for a few years now :(). I have a thread on another forum and along with my successes, I've posted my mistakes as well and I've made a bunch of claims that show how naive I am. But hey, if someone else can learn from my mistakes, great. I have a couple questions. Why did you use a remote thermostat before instead of the one with the water pump? I'm using the stock circulation pump, (has built in bypass) and plan to use the stock thermostat. I've read a few times that a spacer is needed for the driver coupler. Are you using one? I'm using a flywheel and my measurements show I'll be about 1/4" shorter than previously, but I don't think that's going to be an issue, so I'm skipping the spacer. My plan all along was to use the stock cam. I know next to nothing about cam specs, but my research led me to believe the stock overlap wouldn't cause me reversion. After finding this thread and seeing the cam discussions, I'm now seriously beginning to question my decision. I absolutely do not want to go with dry exhaust. I want my boat as quiet as possible and I'm already ditching my Q&Q, (but keeping the Corsa mufflers). Any thoughts on the stock cam? Looking forward to your updates. No spacers were required. Just bolt the coupler directly to the flywheel. It must be an older ls flywheel. The newer ones will not work. If you are going to use a stock cam use the LS9. It will not revert and will make good power. I will be updating here shortly with build pics. The engines are just about finished. Will also update build specs |
Thanks for the quick reply.
I assumed you were closed cooling. Remote stat makes sense then. What is it about the newer flywheels that don't work? It's been so long since I ordered mine, I can't remember what engine/year I ordered it for, but everything bolts up, so I should be good. Thanks for the cam recommendation. |
Originally Posted by yeller
(Post 4723425)
Thanks for the quick reply.
I assumed you were closed cooling. Remote stat makes sense then. What is it about the newer flywheels that don't work? It's been so long since I ordered mine, I can't remember what engine/year I ordered it for, but everything bolts up, so I should be good. Thanks for the cam recommendation. |
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Originally Posted by mggdoors
(Post 4715718)
You may be correct but the stock springs are 120 and they can not control anything more aggressive than a stock cam for the most part. I personally believe its low for these heavy 2.165 valves. Now that the blowers are going on I definitely need to get the ducks in a row. |
Originally Posted by NautiSouth
(Post 4723522)
There is much more at play than just the force on the seat, but I'm sure you're aware of that. It sounds like you're well on your way at this point, but my offer still stands. PM me or email at [email protected] if you'd like to discuss this topic further.
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Very cool deal here...good luck, close to starting my twin turbo LS Daytona, here's pic of where I am at this point...well guess I can no longer post pics ???
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