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Originally Posted by sutphen 30
(Post 4780025)
what computer did you use?
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Any updates on how it ran in your boat
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Not yet. Should be on water in 30 days or so. Just finished cut and buff below rub rail on paint job. Another week-week and half for top then back together she goes. Literally polished/powdercoated/reupolstered etc everything in boat. Full resto.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...90ee01b2e.jpeg |
Originally Posted by mggdoors
(Post 4745293)
The lt4 is a different beast than mine. It is direct injected with a higher compression and heads that flow 50cfm more out of the box. The lt4 supercharger will not work on ls applications due to wrong port match and no injector bosses. This dyno run is at 148kpa/7.1psi boost. Had belt slip which you can see in posted dyno log. It is cable driven throttle. We are using the factory intercooler modified with gusseting to prevent collapsing it under sustained load. Cooling is raw water ran through an iron ly6 block no thermostat. If you go aluminum block you will have to go closed cooling because block temp must rise to I would say 160 to allow bearing clearance to grow otherwise you will dstroy engine. We should see upwards of 9psi when belt slip is corrected which will easily push us over 800. Yes it is 1.9 tvs. Keep in mind that I am barely using the potential of this supercharger. With a lower pulley change we could be upwards of 16-18psi. But would require e85
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:nicethread:
I will build a stock LT1 Gen.V in my 29ft Velocity VR-1. Only 460 HP but the VR-1 is a light weight hull. I hope it´s enough power for cruisin. :whistle: What do you think? |
Originally Posted by neuer_Typ
(Post 4811350)
:nicethread:
I will build a stock LT1 Gen.V in my 29ft Velocity VR-1. Only 460 HP but the VR-1 is a light weight hull. I hope it´s enough power for cruisin. :whistle: What do you think? |
What ever happened with this project?
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Originally Posted by Wildman_grafix
(Post 4811362)
What ever happened with this project?
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Originally Posted by mggdoors
(Post 4811352)
I think you better run closed cooling or you will murder the mains when the aluminum block fails to heat up and expand the bearing clearances. Otherwise its a great engine. I personally would do an l8t. You get an iron block which is only a few more pounds but you get a long stroker 6.6L. A cam swap would be easy 550hp
I´m in germany....no chance to get a 6.6L. But....it would be a nice project....if i need 800hp+ :riding: |
if you were to build this more for a midrange torque and go NA and no stroker kit, would 317 or even 243 heads work well instead of the LS3 which I believe like higher revs? trying to spec out my 6.0 NA build for small lake boat but want good get up for ski.
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any progress with this build
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Originally Posted by mggdoors
(Post 4767590)
Do yourself a favor and pull the intercoolers and gusset them. Also run the zl1 lid if possible. Good for 20 or so hp and intercooler is more efficient. Port them as well. I did mine. Pay close attention to the area right above the gasket area that mates to head. Youll notice square edges. Round those out and open them up. Injectors I would decap the zl1 injectors and have them cleaned and flow matched. Good for 105lb/hr. And cheap. Last but not least a nice little trick if you dyno them and your ecu has capability is to fire injectors the second the intake valve opens or 0-5 degrees before and stop them at or before the valve closes. Easy BIG hp gain and does let fuel pool behind calve/cleaner afr etc. I actually showed my dyno guy this and he couldnt believe the gains. Over 40hp in my case. If you have overlap and can get enough fuel in within the valve event I suggest injecting after the overlap event. But only if you can get adequate fuel in by the time it closes.
Now a direct injected engine, especially a diesel, yeah, I can see by advancing injector timing there can be a power optimization |
Good information!
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Did you ever get the boat back in the water
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Just reread this one. Wanted to say thanks for all of the posting and data. I know we gave you a hard time.
I think if going NA with LS engines for a boat a guy would want to utilize all of the 9.3” deck height and get really aggressive with the stroke, like a 4.125” if possible. Better yet a sleeved aluminum block or aftermarket block with a big bore too. But then the budget comparisons to big blocks have really gone out the window. Utilizing stock take off blowers like you did is really the smartest move. |
Originally Posted by hogie roll
(Post 4941586)
Just reread this one. Wanted to say thanks for all of the posting and data. I know we gave you a hard time.
I think if going NA with LS engines for a boat a guy would want to utilize all of the 9.3” deck height and get really aggressive with the stroke, like a 4.125” if possible. Better yet a sleeved aluminum block or aftermarket block with a big bore too. But then the budget comparisons to big blocks have really gone out the window. Utilizing stock take off blowers like you did is really the smartest move. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...28acef908.jpeg |
Originally Posted by mggdoors
(Post 4941602)
no worries, my engines are still up and running great. We have Sens converted them in the last two years over to LSA ported Blowers and blah blah blah and we have them up to just over 1000 hp. Each different cam specs, of course. I can say this my 28 tall deck hauls ass and I can hold 6500 RPM’s as long as I want. We generally run them 5 1/2 pounds of boost. They make 767 hp each and about the same torque. Notice on the diner run we stopped at at 6400 RPMs even though we are still gaining over 20 hp per 100 RPMs that was our final tune for how we run it in the boat 90% of the time to try to keep the drives alive.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...28acef908.jpeg |
Correct
Originally Posted by hogie roll
(Post 4941603)
You dynod to over 1000hp with those blowers?
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