Any updates? A couple boosted engines should be fun!!

Waiting on pushrods from Manton. They will be here Monday. Otherwise I just gotta get it to dyno

How do you like those Crank Driven water pumps?....any issues with those? thanks...very informative thread.

Who’s serpentine belt system is that, what brand?

LS SIMPLE. Its the only one that is 8 rib instead of 6. And it also has option to delete ps pump on second engine

They work good. These ones are johnson f6b-9. Flow is plentiful. I did however have one of the faceplates (impeller cover) come off last season due to no loctite from the factory.

Update: I havent forgotten about you guys. I diverted my dyno funds for full respray of the boat. Completely changing it up. I finally got fed up with the blue on top fading. Will probably be doing a partial capping as well. Engine are completed and awaiting dyno.

Dyno day set. June 12th.

Keep us updated

Dyno has been postponed a few days. Apparently the engine before mine is needing a day extra tuning so I expect monday. Downfall is I wont be on site to tune it myself. Will keep you updated

Any updates? Very interested in hearing the results..

Got it on late today. Did a few pulls. Had a few issues. Will be finishing Saturday. Ground issue on bank 2 ignition. 2 rockers backed off. Both resolved. Now fighting sensitivity of knock sensors and dyno
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...fb5d682fb.jpeg

Here you go. This is with belt slip. 150kpa pulls. Both 200 and 300 rom/sec. Minor changes between pulls. Will get some datalog screenshot posted as well. We were picking up still by leaning afr when I called it.Would guess could have hit 780 pretty easily. Will be full 158 kpa when installed in boat.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...d667073058.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...851a01bdcd.jpg

AFRs look a lil fat. Maybe you're leaner off WOT.

We kept them fat on purpose as a safety net. We did have an exhaust leak on the leaner side but the o2 for holley was on the side without yhe leak

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...73f4fb971a.png
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...8d2a7e6a32.png

Rich mixtures can help keep exhaust valves cooler. I talk about this on allmondmarine.com/blog in the series on valves. Might be worth a read.

Now that we dynoed the supercharged engines Im going to implement in some oil breather/catch cans. Which ones do you guys recommend for marine application

what supercharger is it again?

Eaton 1.9l that came on ZL1 camaro and ctsv

Impressive numbers. I have some questions now, this is what I have been thinking of doing when its repower time. Cost is just a concern..

The SC is it this one> (1.9L/rev 4-lobe “TVS” rotor set with 160 degree twist).
For what ever reason the LT4 is using a smaller blower but makes more power? At least in the carte motors. > 1.7L Eaton R1740 TVS Supercharger.

Are you also using the factory inter-cooler?

I don't think your motor is direct injection correct?

This is at 8-9 lbs of boost?

Are you going closed cooling?

Are you using a mechanical throttle or wire?

They used the 1.74 due to hood clearance issues. They tuned up the 1.74 so it could spin faster, according to my friend that used to work at Eaton.

The lt4 is a different beast than mine. It is direct injected with a higher compression and heads that flow 50cfm more out of the box. The lt4 supercharger will not work on ls applications due to wrong port match and no injector bosses. This dyno run is at 148kpa/7.1psi boost. Had belt slip which you can see in posted dyno log. It is cable driven throttle. We are using the factory intercooler modified with gusseting to prevent collapsing it under sustained load. Cooling is raw water ran through an iron ly6 block no thermostat. If you go aluminum block you will have to go closed cooling because block temp must rise to I would say 160 to allow bearing clearance to grow otherwise you will dstroy engine. We should see upwards of 9psi when belt slip is corrected which will easily push us over 800. Yes it is 1.9 tvs. Keep in mind that I am barely using the potential of this supercharger. With a lower pulley change we could be upwards of 16-18psi. But would require e85

That probably has alot to do with it as well. Intercoolers are closer the banks as well which allows much lower profile

The marine version of the LT4

https://marineenginedepot.com/new-62...-airpac-620-hp

Pricey and ugly.

I would want to use the aluminum block and closed cooling as I boat in salt. How did you like the holly system, seems most like it.

What size injectors?

There engines are just factory crate engines with marine brackets, cooling, exhaust. No inconel valves. Still use cast pistons. Literally factory crate engines. I would suggest against these in a performance marine app. Then sgain I would suggest against a aluminum block because even with closed cooling you still have core shift concerns

LS9 injectors decapped and flow matched 103lb.

How did this do in the boat?

I would love to know myself. Lol. We did a full repaint, interior, powdercoating, etc. We are giving the paint ample time to cure and release all solvents before we crank down the fittings, drives, etc and cause a blistering issue. Currently top is just about cured and sides are maybe another month behind.

Any updates summer is almost over

Still playing the hurry up and wait game. Didnt miss a whole hell of alot. The lake in phoenix were closed half the summer. So it chaos now that they are open. Havasu has had a limited amount of people allowed so mile long lines to launch. And now the colorado river is like 3 ft deep between havasu and laughlin for an “experiment”. Season here is tossed. Still not ready to mount hardware/drives/etc as I am more worried about a full cure on new paint. Can still leave a fingernail mark in paint. So like I said. Hurry up and wait for the solvents to work their way out.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...3d0165bf5.jpeg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c126ad75e.jpeg

Good morning, I am embarking on a similar LS engine swap and wonder if I can pick your brain. A little about my project, I have a 1990 Baja 265 with no engine or outdrives, I have found a Bravo 1 outdrive for it and in the process of having that picked up and shipped. I work with a guy that has a 2003 Vortec 6000 truck engine he wants to sell for $1000 and it is nearly complete (no computer or harness but otherwise should be complete). I have a short list of things I need to complete the swap and I will list them here, I would love if you can look at what I am doing and give me any recommendations.

My biggest differences with what you have done is I am planning to use the factory intake and computer/harness.

Thanks in advance
Kevin

My list

Vortec 6000 Junkyard engine $550-750 (Jay $1000)

Flywheel $325 Hardin
Bravo Couple $587 Hardin ($425 Ebay) ($399 Marineenginedepot.com) included with boat!
Bellhousing $300 Hardin ($31 Ebay) ($270 Marineenginedepot.com) included with boat!

Motor Mounts $330 (Make)

Oil Pan $337-10Qt (Champ Pans)

Fuel Pump??

Cam $400

Cooling System $770 for Meziere electric pump and LS Crossover/Thermostat housing
Relay Kit $41
Sea Strainer?? included with boat!

Exhaust $2400 Lightning Fresh Water Mercury Bravo Headers

Pm sent with my phone number. Fell free to call.

I just bought a set with the brackets and the adapters. I just ordered a set of the LSA blowers also.

Do yourself a favor and pull the intercoolers and gusset them. Also run the zl1 lid if possible. Good for 20 or so hp and intercooler is more efficient. Port them as well. I did mine. Pay close attention to the area right above the gasket area that mates to head. Youll notice square edges. Round those out and open them up. Injectors I would decap the zl1 injectors and have them cleaned and flow matched. Good for 105lb/hr. And cheap. Last but not least a nice little trick if you dyno them and your ecu has capability is to fire injectors the second the intake valve opens or 0-5 degrees before and stop them at or before the valve closes. Easy BIG hp gain and does let fuel pool behind calve/cleaner afr etc. I actually showed my dyno guy this and he couldnt believe the gains. Over 40hp in my case. If you have overlap and can get enough fuel in within the valve event I suggest injecting after the overlap event. But only if you can get adequate fuel in by the time it closes.

I just read through this entire thread, tons of good info and I look forward to seeing more progress. Really hoping to dive into an LS swap in my boat soon and will use a bunch of information from this thread.

Glad I could give you some inspiration. Currently the boat has been sanded back down as getting ready for second paint job. We had solvent entrapment in the basecoat aka it never fully cured and would have come off in sheets. I am however getting very good at sanding as I have hundreds of hours doing it. Paint will be on boat within the month. Just waiting for weather to get a little warmer to ensure epoxy primer has at least 24 hours over 65f. Everything else is done. New interior, powdercoated all billet parts, painted and refreshed drives and gimbals, etc. Two steps forward on step back. Will be shooting it in single stage this go around PPG Delfleet (much like old imron) in 2 colors.

what computer did you use?