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Originally Posted by Wildman_grafix
(Post 4670722)
Why less HP with the EFI?
I think if your limited to a maximum idle speed, you could probably run more cam in the EFI setup and make more power. |
Originally Posted by mggdoors
(Post 4670593)
Im using 2008 ly6 blocks. Chose these due to priority main oiling being gen iv which requires vvt delete. I went iron because of strength( found out how much a aluminum ls2 could handle the hard way at 22psi boost in the gto). Way less cylinder distortion. Also much less swing in bearing clearance while waiting for blocks to warm up. Msin reason is raw water cooling. I do not run in salt and am saving an astronomical amount of money by avoiding closed cooling. Mainly out in havasu and Phoenix. |
Originally Posted by hogie roll
(Post 4670724)
Carbs always win all else equal. Probably due to lower intake charge temps. I think if your limited to a maximum idle speed, you could probably run more cam in the EFI setup and make more power. |
Originally Posted by Hot Rod 29
(Post 4670726)
i went aluminum 6.2’s for weight savings. 240 lbs in a 5000 lb boat is drastic. I am under 600 hp and don’t want to upgrade my drives. Mine are going into a P-29. I run in the rivers anyways. |
Originally Posted by mggdoors
(Post 4670742)
240lbs in anything is drastic, especially when chasing every mph. I couldny justify the added cost and have already had the big hp blown big blocks in it and went way faster than I am comfortable at. I figure 110-115 is good enough for me. The extra weight, which is 93lbs per block, would give me another maybe 2 mph. Now being your doing a v hull the century mark is harder to come by and every mph counts. The p29 is a damn good boat. Keep us updated. I just ordered a set if those oil pans. Thanks for info. I also bought extension boxes, raised the drive height, and some more weight savings throughout the boat. |
Decision on fuel system is made. Pro Systems Venom VX 1050 annular. Now for the color. Haha. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...28b475a796.png |
Originally Posted by Hot Rod 29
(Post 4670755)
its 120 per block. I just weighed them. I have a set of 6.0’s I was going to build. I just ordered a set if those oil pans. Thanks for info. I also bought extension boxes, raised the drive height, and some more weight savings throughout the boat. |
Originally Posted by mggdoors
(Post 4670601)
Do a google search for ls engines in road racing, which is extended high rpm running like a boat, with the emphasis being on oil starvation and you will find all the info you can read. I should be fine with 10.5 oil capacity but no chances considering im already in there doung it. I may even run an accusump for when I get off the gas hard after long run and cold starts. Piece of mind. Out of all the toys I own the number one and only killer has been oiling mainly on the main bearings. It is my kryptonite. |
Originally Posted by mggdoors
(Post 4670719)
Thanks. Should be ready for paint tomorrow other than that waiting on pushrods. Then onto wiring we go and reengineering some tails still pondering on pro systems venom vx carb 1050 annular or holley sniper efi. Carb more power less dockability. Efi less hp more dockability slight gph decrease. Decisions |
Originally Posted by corey331
(Post 4671103)
I think you'll be surprised by the dockability of the carb'd motor. I'm not running a carb anywhere near as big as yours (AED Holley HP750) and I'm running a single plane Vic. Jr. intake, but with the adjustability of the timing curve, my boat is awesome at low speeds around the dock. Better than my Merc 454 was that came in the boat. Thing also starts and runs like its EFI. I can leave it parked over night, go down to the dock and not even touch the throttle and it fires right up instantly and idles perfect.
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Originally Posted by mggdoors
(Post 4671109)
I agree with carbs having the capability of running well. I guess what I like about efi is the much more controlled idle and ability to idle it down a bit more. The quick fuel 1050 4500 annular is the best Ive ever ran. On my daytona (489 blower motors) lowest I could idle down to was 900 which was like 13mph. Way too fast approaching dock or trailer. So constant in and out if gear. I know alot has to do with pitch and ratio. But if I can slow down just a tad Id be happy. I actually have quick fuel 750s sitting on my shelf but would be too small for my application being a dual plane. I generally run off the 130% rule on dual plane. That is 130 of cfm requirement. Works very well. Regarding prior post you will be fine. Capacity is king. I figure I have about 14 quarts as well when everything is considered. |
Originally Posted by corey331
(Post 4671112)
I was able to get mine to idle down around 750-800 no problem. I've really considered going EFI but I really hate to with how well this carb runs. Plus, a carb has never left me stranded!!!
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Looking at that Dyno Chart, the 416 LS3 has almost 500 ft lbs at 3500 and above. That's plenty of torque.....
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Originally Posted by wannabe
(Post 4671120)
Looking at that Dyno Chart, the 416 LS3 has almost 500 ft lbs at 3500 and above. That's plenty of torque.....
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Originally Posted by corey331
(Post 4671112)
I was able to get mine to idle down around 750-800 no problem. I've really considered going EFI but I really hate to with how well this carb runs. Plus, a carb has never left me stranded!!!
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After much debate I ordered Pro Systems Venom VX 950 carbs with wet flow of 860. I did as well go dog leg. |
Originally Posted by ezstriper
(Post 4671228)
Not to mention I have studied many intake combo LS dyno shootouts and most EFI's struggle to top the HP of a good intake and carb which shocked me
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You made a compromise for the extra flow? I recall them with annular boosters flowing around 831. At least the ones I had did. 950's a great carb right out of the box for many applications and have a great booster signal. Would be my first choice on tunnel ram builds also. Now we can get educated once again on the verturii and throttle bore size!!! lol. |
Where are you getting the bell housing, starter, front belt system etc? Pretty much the marine parts.
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Originally Posted by getrdunn
(Post 4671298)
You made a compromise for the extra flow? I recall them with annular boosters flowing around 831. At least the ones I had did. 950's a great carb right out of the box for many applications and have a great booster signal. Would be my first choice on tunnel ram builds also. Now we can get educated once again on the verturii and throttle bore size!!! lol. |
Originally Posted by Wildman_grafix
(Post 4671300)
Where are you getting the bell housing, starter, front belt system etc? Pretty much the marine parts.
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Originally Posted by mggdoors
(Post 4671321)
Bell housings and front mounts I have as I kept them from when I parted my blower motors. Using ict billet low mount truck spacing alternator bracket and ps. Ls1 camaro pump. Starters and alternators frim late model salvage yard. All super low mileage stuff. Crank driven water pumps I alrady have using marine power mounts for ls. Moroso remote thermostat is in the works now for cooling control rather than hardin. |
Originally Posted by corey331
(Post 4671335)
I ran a set up very similar to that when I first put the engine in. A brass crank mount pump into Moroso LS/BBC water pump adapters and a crossover into a Moroso remote t-stat. I was not happy with how it cooled the engine. Temps were very erratic. I ended up going with the Hardin setup, but I run it as open cooling. Yes, it was expensive, but it works and looks great. Now, I am thinking about going with a ProCharger on the engine, so the Hardin stuff will have to go, but I have been talking with a guy who makes a really nice bracket that bolts into the stock LS A/C location as uses a Merc style raw water pump. Using that, you can run stock style accessories including a circulating pump. He is much cheaper than the Hardin pump as well. Might be worth looking into.
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Originally Posted by mggdoors
(Post 4671317)
I was going to go with a 1050 annular with wet flow of 970. I ended up going 950 with 860 wet flow to maintain better cruise afr and response as well as off idle response |
junk yard automotive alternator and starter??
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Originally Posted by phragle
(Post 4671378)
junk yard automotive alternator and starter??
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I thought marine starters and alternators were sealed units? |
I recently had a friend engulfed in flames when the key was turned on a boat that was meticulously maintained with all marine components........
Marine rated starters and alternators aren't that expensive and cheaper than a burn unit vacation or a funeral..... Just sayin........ |
Originally Posted by phragle
(Post 4671408)
I recently had a friend engulfed in flames when the key was turned on a boat that was meticulously maintained with all marine components........
Marine rated starters and alternators aren't that expensive and cheaper than a burn unit vacation or a funeral..... Just sayin........ I went with marine grade starter and alternator on mine. That being said, the stock LS stuff is sealed from everything I have read. |
Originally Posted by corey331
(Post 4671435)
I went with marine grade starter and alternator on mine. That being said, the stock LS stuff is sealed from everything I have read.
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Originally Posted by corey331
(Post 4671435)
I went with marine grade starter and alternator on mine. That being said, the stock LS stuff is sealed from everything I have read.
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Originally Posted by Wildman_grafix
(Post 4671445)
Who sells the marine stuff?
P/N: 620-3121 |
Originally Posted by phragle
(Post 4671408)
I recently had a friend engulfed in flames when the key was turned on a boat that was meticulously maintained with all marine components........
Marine rated starters and alternators aren't that expensive and cheaper than a burn unit vacation or a funeral..... Just sayin........ In addition to running blowers prior to starting my boats over the last 30 plus years I've always opened engine hatch/hatches for a quick inspection and leave open while starting. And still check for anything that could potentially raise a flag. Example, the first time I used a marina for a repair on a friends boat I had for a summer the mechanic slit the inlet raw water pump hose over a simple impeller replacement. Yes cost me another impeller in addition to a bad burn on my forearm I still have to this day. I slipped while trying to wrap hose with a towel temporary so I could get to land and got pinned up against the exhaust. Boat was completely stock and the first time I never opened hatch due to being in a rush and look what happened. Nothing compared to an explosion or engulfed in flames. Didn't mean to wander off OT subject but worthy of mentioning especially for non experienced boaters. |
It was a twin engined beaker... As mentioned meticulously maintained blower motors and boat. THey were unable to determine exactly what was the root cause, but the fuel tank was highly suspect. Hatches were opened for several minutes, one motor was started and idling, turned key on second motor and flames everywhere, cockpit cabin and bilge, THey were able to get off and onto the dock with minor singes and crispyness. so both are ok but boat is totaled,
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Very lucky. Almost sounds like a deal gone bad. Literally...
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Originally Posted by phragle
(Post 4671540)
It was a twin engined beaker... As mentioned meticulously maintained blower motors and boat. THey were unable to determine exactly what was the root cause, but the fuel tank was highly suspect. Hatches were opened for several minutes, one motor was started and idling, turned key on second motor and flames everywhere, cockpit cabin and bilge, THey were able to get off and onto the dock with minor singes and crispyness. so both are ok but boat is totaled,
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I love that this is catching on. 4-5 years ago everyone thought I was crazy for thinking I could build reliable LS engine that were turbo charged. This summer I put over 45 hours on my 42 Fountain without a hiccup. The best part was all the double takes as people walked by it at the Shootout while we had it tied up at Ron's.
Keep up the good work! |
Originally Posted by Precision
(Post 4671962)
I love that this is catching on. 4-5 years ago everyone thought I was crazy for thinking I could build reliable LS engine that were turbo charged. This summer I put over 45 hours on my 42 Fountain without a hiccup. The best part was all the double takes as people walked by it at the Shootout while we had it tied up at Ron's.
Keep up the good work! |
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