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Originally Posted by getrdunn
(Post 4761905)
If you do install a vacuum pump I have a nice HD 12 volt one that I’m pretty certain near new if not new. About the size of a small alternator.
Just an fyi. |
Forgot to mention that I was thinking engine is being loaded different on dyno vs in car. On dyno I'm assuming they put some load to warm it up(less intake vac). In the car the engine pulls 15" vac at idle and 16-17" at 2100rpm cruise. Thinking the higher vac is causing the oil to get sucked past the rings.
Problem also seems to happen worse after I ran it hard- (boost) or right after during hard decel- very high vac. Sucking past the rings. Any thoughts on this? |
If it was rings it would be doing it on the dyno too. If anything the extra boost from the turbo would be increasing blowby but that would not make it get oil on the tops of the pistons. I probably do an average of two to three blocks a week and I finish them all with a 280 grit stone followed by a few strokes with plateau finishing brushes. The bores are very smooth and I have had absolutely no issues with ring sealing. I used a profilometer on it and sent the scan to Total Seal and they said it was perfect.
I dont even see a 320 grit Sunnen hone stone available ? Maybe a "dingleberry" type ? As many issues as you have been having I would hope that you would have the block honed in a "real" hone. The walls look like they could use it any way. I guess you have the engine back apart otherwise I would tell you to put some die in the oil and run it a few more times. Then when you take it apart you might be able to see where the oil is coming from. |
Originally Posted by getrdunn
(Post 4761905)
If you do install a vacuum pump I have a nice HD 12 volt one that I’m pretty certain near new if not new. About the size of a small alternator.
Just an fyi. |
Maybe you mentioned it already, but when does that smoke actually occur? On accel or decel?
You mention the guides were not replaced, but were the valves replaced? If so, do you have data that shows actual valve guide clearance (did they measure guides and measure valves that were installed?) Smoke on decel generally indicates excessive valve guide clearance/wear or a valve seal issue, in an extreme case. Terry |
Seeing any oil in the intake runners?
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Originally Posted by zz28zz
(Post 4761971)
Seeing any oil in the intake runners?
Amazing to me, anyway. |
Guess I should have said runners in the intake manifold as opposed to in the head. I do see oil in the intake runners of the heads. Reason I asked was if a malfunctioning PCV sys ( if present) might be responsible for oil burning. Kinda lines up with "after a hard run" (elevated crankcase press) and "heavy deceleration" (super high intake vacuum). Just a thought.
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Originally Posted by BillK
(Post 4761921)
If it was rings it would be doing it on the dyno too. If anything the extra boost from the turbo would be increasing blowby but that would not make it get oil on the tops of the pistons. I probably do an average of two to three blocks a week and I finish them all with a 280 grit stone followed by a few strokes with plateau finishing brushes. The bores are very smooth and I have had absolutely no issues with ring sealing. I used a profilometer on it and sent the scan to Total Seal and they said it was perfect.
I dont even see a 320 grit Sunnen hone stone available ? Maybe a "dingleberry" type ? As many issues as you have been having I would hope that you would have the block honed in a "real" hone. The walls look like they could use it any way. I guess you have the engine back apart otherwise I would tell you to put some die in the oil and run it a few more times. Then when you take it apart you might be able to see where the oil is coming from. What bothers me is I think the finish is too fine. Even you said you do a 280grit. When I called up Mahle rings this past week the tech said 280. Said 320 was to fine. This is with plasma moly rings. Attached is a few pictures of latest hone. Honestly the finish is MUCH finer in person than the camera is capturing. You can barely feel it with your finger nail. I wish you were closer Bill. I would ask you to take a look at it. You are about 4 1/2hrs away from me. But at this point I would like to get to the bottom of my issue. I'm in ny. I did drive to NJ for what I believe is a very reputable shop. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...d6b6b462c3.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...2bf58ed6e8.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...8514b16e4f.jpg |
Originally Posted by ALL_IN!
(Post 4761931)
Maybe you mentioned it already, but when does that smoke actually occur? On accel or decel?
You mention the guides were not replaced, but were the valves replaced? If so, do you have data that shows actual valve guide clearance (did they measure guides and measure valves that were installed?) Smoke on decel generally indicates excessive valve guide clearance/wear or a valve seal issue, in an extreme case. Terry Guides weren't changed, only exhaust valves are new. After first build I disassembled the heads and found 2 valves that were snug in the guides, no damage or galing. When I dropped engine off I brought heads to have builder look at. He said the other 14 guides measured .0012 clearance. I told him to loosen them up a bit do to the heat of the turbo. They are now .0016-0018. He said that was more than safe for a street car. |
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