Thanks again guys. Like we talked about last night Tom, I'll more than likely be using your cam. I have to verify the numbers on my friends cam first. If I confirm the duration really is that long, that'll be the deciding factor. I should be able to fully degree it this morning.
fwiw. There was a problem with my notes for finding the duration. Actually two things were wrong with my method that I figured out late last night. I haven't degreed a cam in five years so I didn't catch it. I'd love to see if somebody else can see it. Let's see how good you guys really are at Degreeing cams. ;-)

​​

I'd run 1.8 rocker arms

Why? To add more lift for the higher duration? It would give me .556/.564 lift. If I were looking to spend more money this build would look very different. I'd just buy the cam with more lift. What purpose would spending money on new rockers serve?

.483 lift with a 1.7 would be .511 with a 1.8 . I believe that was S30’s point.
You seem to be stuck on lift. For some reason, not duration at all.

If your stuck on lift , stay with same duration as mag cam but get closer to .600”.

But, will need stronger valve train, and your buying used cams, so that is wrong direction budget wise.

Not sure why you where all set with your plans and then got some 240*+ duration cam in your head ? What happened there ? This paragraph is just round table talk btw.

Gotcha. I thought he was talking about the cam my friend gave me. I'm not sure where you got that I was stuck on lift. I'm not stuck on any cam or combo and will use Tom's cam if the duration really is too high.
What happened with the second cam was I thought something was wrong with the original Mag cam. While I was talking to my buddy at his machine shop he pulled out the cam that he said he had in a motor on the dyno. He builds alot of very high end stuff for boats and cars and the cam didn't put the hp/tq where he wanted it. I might have misheard or misunderstood the 240 duration, but we verified the lift. The cam card was in the customer file, not in the box. It's a custom grind. I'm going to degree that cam today.

I had been trying to follow the math and didn’t get how duration would be affected by the timing set outside open and closing events starting and ending incorrectly to crankshaft degree readings. The lobe is a fixed entity and cannot be changed so the duration should have remained constant. I would use the ICL to verify cam timing first so that you know the cam is installed where it is supposed to be per the designed specs. In fact, most texts on the subject indicate having to start with TDC verification, then following procedures to establish installation based on the ICL. From there lobe specifications can be verified, etc.

Ford 385 series, have cam issues like this. Cam specs are for installed "straight up" yet cams are installed 4-6 degrees advanced. I have never understood this. If you want the timing a certain way, and you are making or have the cams made for you, why not grind them for the numbers you want? I made the horrific mistake in my first Marine engine build, and installed a pretty radical grind 4 degrees advanced thinking it would produce more power at the 5000-5500 range I wanted to run the engine at. Disaster, total pig that would not rev past 4800, with the same prop that ran to 5300 with a stock(ish) engine. Thinking I had valve spring issues, I ended up pulling it back out(just easier) and checking ALL of my valve spring pressures. They were all in spec. I decided to re-degree the cam and install it 2 degrees retarded. No other changes made. boat pulled to the rev limiter 5800rpm. Re-propped and was very happy with the performance. Still not sure why advancing the cam made it a pig. seems like it would help a marine engine.

1000rpm in a boat changing cam orientation 2 degrees ? No other changes like unhooking trailer from the boat ?

I knew I forgot something lol. The cam was 4 advanced went to 2 retarded, so for those that skipped 5th grade integer math, that is a 6 degree cam change. But yes, it seems unlikely to me as well. Researching on the web(forums) the intake close point seems to be of some serious importance. Maybe i screwed up the first cam installation or something, but I tripple checked it twice.

WAs it a hydraulic roller with a cam button by any chance ?