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I had the same problem, it was my lanyard for the kill switch, it just wasn't on all the way, or you also might have a bad switch.
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Had a lanyard a few years ago, that the clip must have just deformed with age a bit. Even though it was fully on, it didnt hold the kill switch plunger in quite enough. Took a while to figure that one out.:crazy:
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Originally Posted by seafordguy
(Post 4781160)
I replaced this on Saturday when mine wouldn't crank. Easy to check with a multimeter, but every single one of us should have a spare on board. They are used for lots of things. Trim, tabs, hatches, etc.....
This is one of the first pieces of advice I heeded after reading some posts here....just saw it yesterday in my junk drawer on the boat. |
Originally Posted by SB
(Post 4781233)
Test lights and multimeters are cheap and a diy’s best friend.
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Had a electrical thing going on at the house. When a/c tuned on lights would dim just a little, no one noticed but me. Checked voltage coming into main box with multimeter. One leg good other was around 12 volts lower. I was thinking transformer. Called power company. I showed him what I had and he used my aluminum ladder to stand on to re crimp wires at weather head with power on. That was it bad connection.
Now same multimeter on boat. It was tabs, trim or something not working. I looked at everything with same multimeter for 2 months and everything had same voltage. I was at harbor freight and saw a test light and thought it would be easier to use on somethings like the boat. Going all over the boat for the hundredth time with this new test light got to fuse panel going down fuse holders I noticed the light was dim on one fuse holder. The multimeter shows same voltage on all fuse holders. It was the same problem bad connection. The river was not tight on the fuse holder and busbar. Now I have three of these cheap harbor freight test lights. |
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Here is a very recent no crank/start thread.
https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/...ml#post4779691 Please see my posts, and others of course.I had put in some diagrams to help diagnose. Ie: check power with light. Start w/yellow red that connects starter to remote solenoid. Turn key, check that wire at the remote solenoid. If no light, check yellow red on smaller post at solenoid. If lit with key to start, check battery cable at top of remote solenoid.(red/blue i believe) Power ? If yes, cross that with top yellow red next to it snd see if cranks. If it does, it’s the remote solenoid or it’s ground. |
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