Holes are blind on this block. Just using ARP’s lube on the threads.

I’ve got another brand new set I can try. I thought that maybe there was an issue reusing the bolts (though never had an issue reusing ARP head bolts). I had slippage on the other engine and when the bolt broke, I bought two new sets.

Are studs not available ?

They are but I didn't really think they were needed at this level. These engines are going to be rather mild compared to a lot of the others built around here.

I think the use of studs may be more about not stripping out your block, and the ease of teardown/reassembly, not so much the power level. I could be wrong.

abones, I get were you're coming from, and I mentioned that maybe I should have gone that route to begin with. However, there have been an uncountable number of engines built using AFR heads and ARP bolts on a Gen-VI block. The block really has nothing to do with the issue; it's the slick surface relationship of the head and washer.

I agree with SB's earlier consensus... ARP is supposed to be the best and comes with a price to match. Why haven't they come up with a solution, say similar to Chrysler (Chrysler incorporates a toothed design into their head bolt washers)? Chrysler's solution was mentioned in the Engine Labs link. I've been swamped today, but I plan on calling ARP in the next thirty minutes.

From reading the engine labs article I did learn something new. I have built and seen many engine built with no regard to washers spinning. Torque in three steps to desired final torque and run them. Works for just about everyone I know. If the friction is reduced and you happen to over torque, it is not a large enough a problem as that its ever been a problem. I almost think you are getting a little too OCD on this. Torque in three steps to whatever ARP says. lube the bolt and the washer. It works for everyone.

I would agree about the OCD, however, I cannot get to the rated torque spec (70#).

If the washer slips, the bolt keeps going because it acts like a bearing. The threads are deep in the block and eventually it exceeds the stretch of the bolt and breaks (or pulls the threads). I already broke one in another set on the other engine... a short bolt that was number five in the sequence. The new set had a couple of instances of slip but stopped and played right. This time one bolt took a full turn and was not getting to the next step but was getting tight (if that makes sense). Any more turning and the bolt would break, or pull threads (worst case).

what kinda torque wrench you using? Clicker, digital, beam scale?

You say you had them torqued to 65 and you only want 70. Are you hoping the bolt stops spinning at 70? You can easily apply more than 70 to them. The point is you need to stop at 70. If your digital vibrates. Stop. When the clicker clicks once. Stop. When you see 70 on your scale stop. The bolt will not stop. It will stretch till it pulls threads or breaks. Three steps, with lube, stop at your desired final torgue. Run that ***** hard.