When you get your studs, don't tighten them in the block. Just finger tight and some people back them out just a little from that. When you torque the nuts, don't do that weird 5lb increment deal. Do three steps, don't concern yourself with the washer spinning. Three steps with lube to final torque. Do a round of 35, a round of 55, then one more to your final torque of 70. With studs the numbers may be different, but I hope you get the idea.

If I'm understanding correctly, you are torqueing to say 60lbs than going back over to 65lbs after? A 5lb increase

When the washer spins and acts as a bearing you apply more torque than you think you are as per the article. But, at some point you will reach your 70lbs the torque wrench shows because you have compressed all the materials as far as they will go.. It may be more than the 50lbs the bolt would get without the bearing acting as a washer, but it's still 70lbs. I am assuming these are 7/16 bolts based on 70lb torque. I have seen way more torque applied to 7/16 bolts than 70lbs without them breaking. something you are doing with your 5lb incremnet is causing the problem you are getting. If you set your torque wrench to 70lbs and it never gets there, you either have a bad set of bolts or the block is hosed.

Please leave the 5# increment out of the mix, it’s not the issue. I only included that info because I was trying get it to stop slipping. Those small increments weren’t doing anything anyway. There’s also nothing wrong with the block, I’m positive on that.

The washer and the bolt are getting hung up. I saw the washer turn with the bolt. It is the same thing as mentioned in the Engine Labs article. I read about it weeks ago and applied ARP’s recommendation to the other engine and with exception of a slip here and there at lower values, it worked as suggested. I applied the fix before getting started on this one and was surprised by the result.

The suggestion of adding a dimple to the washer is a good one. I’m going to back everything off tomorrow morning and try again. It’s possible that having pressure applied over two days may have allowed the washers to dig in a little. If the same issues happen, I’ll pull them again to see what’s up.

More to come.

Were talking about a cast iron block. The threads just might be a little weak. I think head studs would save you a lot of trouble. I had the same problem with a old chev 400 small block a while back.

I’ll be extremely reluctant to continue using bolts in your situation, I would make the switch the studs now before you damage the block. If I am buying fasteners I always make the switch to studs.

great thread BTW, and ur build has been fun to watch

I decided to mess with it this afternoon while my gf was out taking care of errands. I really wish the recovery from the rona was faster. Just breaking the bolts loose took it out of me.

On the even side, number 9 was slipping. In the pic you can see that the washer shows evidence of galling. Compare to number 9 that still shows the sanded surface. In this case I think I had some contamination from the lubricant. I’m going to try a fresh washer to see how it works.



Number 9, even bank.

Number 1, even bank.

I’ll report back if I’m not dead on the shop floor. Lol

Even side. Got out the new bolts, prepped a set of washers, and went to town. Baseline at 40, then went to 50, 60, and then 70. No slippage.

After I catch my breath, I’ll get the other side cleaned up, prepped and torqued. Hoping for the same results.

Odd side finished up nicely too. Beer thirty!

Thanks for all the helpful advice guys!

Did you go to the heavier grit this last time around in prepping the washers or the same as before?